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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
USDM Roller Rockers come with a very unSR20 redline of a whipping 6700 rpm. I have to shift twice before even getting to 55mph with that redline! :cry:

Luckily wnwright chimed in and mentioned that he used to use VE valve springs on his Roller Rocker and that raised the redline to 7800-8000 rpm. This is excellent because JWT is the only one that makes stiffer springs for us, they are very expensive and are out of stock until further notice. You can get a VE valve spring and retainer set for about $50. I personally stole the needed parts from my old VE.

VE Parts Needed:
- VE Dual Valve Springs
- VE Retainers
- VE Inner valve spring seats

For more detailed information and step by step process please check these two threads out!
How to Build a 9000-rpm SR20DET Head
How to install Cams and Springs and/or Retainers in the VE

Removed the cams and all of that good stuff




Notice the Valve shim and rocker guide locations, this is important to remember!


Pulle the shims and guides out, make sure to keep them separated, otherwise you will have to reshim the head.


Valves and valve keepers exposed now


Using a valve spring tool I compressed the spring and took out the keepers


While I was at it I figured it would be a perfect time to change the valve stem seals. Gotta be very careful when using anything but a proper tool to remove old valve stem seals! If you scratch the valve it will cut the seal and leak. Get a proper tool if you can, I couldn't get one locally and didn't have time to order it.


I had a Supertech kit that I bought for the VE, but since I decided to pull the VE before I got around to replacing the seals, I had these handy. Supertech exhaust seals on left oem used ones on right.


Installed:



VE Valve spring seats consist of outer and inner seats (washers basically).


VE seat is on the bottom, while RR seat is on top, notice that VE has a smaller internal diameter. This will prevent you from being able to install it since it will hang on the head. For this reason I used RR seats on the outer spring:


The inner valve seats aren't really meant to be used on the RR, VE has the head machined to fit them, on the RR they wont sit right at first.


Once you insert the bigger valve spring it should align the inner seat.


Now is the time to put in the inner springs, make sure the painted surface faces down.


Installing the retainers with the valve keepers is where I had the most pain. My shoulders are still sour from keeping the valve springs compressed and trying to install the keepers.



Something to worry about on the exhaust side, there are oil drain passages. I lost a valve keeper into one of those, hence I started using a magnetic drain plug.

Intake side was a lot more painful then the exhaust side, intake side required me to push up instead of push down. Luckily Keo's valve spring tool had a spot where I could add a wrench into for better leverage.


All done, finally! This probably was one of the more nerve wracking tasks I've done on the car. What's worse is, I couldn't use the compressor to pressurize the cylinders (it spun the crank). Thus I used TDC per cylinder to stop the valves from falling, that means I had to rotate the crank while the cams where off.


You can see the smaller spring hiding in there


For those that are curious here are some closeup shots of the roller rocker.



I thought I would measure the valve springs to make sure they were still within spec. I'm surprised that the RR ones with 100k miles still are within perfect spec.


VE one is too, granted I measured it at a bigger side, at the smallest side it was at 47.x mm too.


VE Inner spring


So far I've taken her up to 7500 rpm and regular dyno oil and she seems to be kicking fine. I just changed the oil to some 5w30 Valvoline Synthetic, will have some virtual dyno's soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This makes me happy :) (glad I'm not the only crazy dude to work on a RR!)
I think the RR is great, they make good power even NA. Gas mileage is awesome too. Once I finally decided to quit the P11, finally started getting 35+ mpg highway!

Now that I'm going out of the P11 game, finding the back log of the posts that I should have posted before.
 

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The G20 hoarder
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quick question on the VE Valve spring seats: I just bought a set and asked for all three, I go the springs and retainers, but from the pic below I only got the middle one, is that the ve spring seat. the ones on left and right are both rr? thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
quick question on the VE Valve spring seats: I just bought a set and asked for all three, I go the springs and retainers, but from the pic below I only got the middle one, is that the ve spring seat. the ones on left and right are both rr? thanks.
There are two on VE and one on RR. You only need the smaller inside one for RR. The VE outer one wont even fit from what I recall.
 

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The G20 hoarder
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on my daily driver I got a set of s3r and most bolt ons, I have a 2 year project that is yet to be completed, I took the cams off the project car and put them on my daily.

I got my hands on some nismo blanks that I will be putting on my project car, so I want something bigger than the s3r, not sure how big.

I know the rr starts loosing power past 7000 rpm, my goal is just to be able to hit 7200 safely with out any malfunctions if I have to, or on a miss shift.
with higher compression and bigger cams, it should still make some power on the 7000 range.
here is the link to my build. very slow progress.
http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?106278-Ve-RR-Hybrid/page5
 
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