Infiniti G20 Nissan Primera Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,107 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
See: http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=78127

Search: P-0400 code, EGR Valve, solenoid

This is a common code for an EGR problem. I fairly quickly got the diag narrowed down to the solenoid. Basically, you start by disconnecting the solenoid (located under the intake manifold on the brace) sticking your finger under the EGR valve to see if it moves up and down as revs go up and down, and if not, checking for vacuum at the EGR valve. If none, follow the vacuum lines back from the throttle body to the solenoid, see if you got vacuum there. The ECU (on advice from the EGR thermostat) uses the solenoid to direct vacuum either to the EGR valve (ON) or the cannister (OFF). If tthe solenoid sticks, no vaccum for the EGR Valve.

After bench testing both the one off the car (94 P-10) and the one off a wreck (also '94), I finally found the one off my '06 engine. None worked. Bench testing is using a vacuum pump ($30 from AZ) and a 12V power supply (Mity-Mite -also AZ- with cigarette lighter plug and leads- Radio Shack-) and seeing if the solenoid clicks and turns the vacuum off/on from supply (one end) to the two outlets on the other end. I tried squirting in WD 40 and Carb cleaner, which did get the newer one working. However, note it has a different connector which would have meant clipping and soldering.

After finding out I would have to get a new one from Justin (not listed on-line) and not available from auto-parts stores, and it being Sat late, and having a few duds to play with, I decided to take one apart.

It actually comes apart easily by pinching together the bent tines on the output side and prying off the piece with the two outlets. I'd do this at a table with some care as there is a spring. You get:

1. Solenoid body with plug and metal frame,
2. O-ring
3. Spring
4. Plastic outlet with two tubes, and
5. Stuck in the bore of that piece, a small metal plunger.



A little closer:



The basic issue is that the little plunger gets stuck in the bore (get it out by carefully blowing with compressed air or tapping), and you need to clean it out. This is a little tricky because there is a tube sticking up in the middle of the bore. I cleaned it up as follows:

1. Stuck the plunger on the shank of a drill bit just the right size (for a handle), rubbed any build up off with the 800 grit emery cloth in the pic.
2. Got my son's very small gun file kit that happened to have a very tiny rat-tail, which I used to clean the plastic bore.
3. Played with the bore/plunger and the vacuum pump/power supply until the plunger was able to travel back and forth freely in the bore (clicking).

The other trick is to be sure and get the assembly back together firmly enough to seat the o-ring. I carefully secured the body in a vice (careful with the plug socket as it is offset) and reset the tines with a small cold chisel. There should not be any space between the body and the plastic outlet piece- shouldn't wiggle. Test it again before you put it back on the car to be sure its right.

If you look in the pics, you will also see the difference in the connector between the '94 and the '96. The older ones have that accursed spring clip, and the newer one has a push-button plug. Also, high port P-10's (91-93)have a slightly different solenoid- works the same (hose connections are at a different angle), but looks like it might be harder to take apart. I believe all the solenoids are interchangeable if you want to modify the hoses/plug.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,107 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Cleared codes, drove the car to work this AM (shutting it off/on several times for the 3 trip deal). So far, no codes have reappeared.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,107 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Finally called Scottsdale- Part #'s:

1. '94 (low port with older spring-clip connector) #14956-6U00 $72.92
2. '96 (with push button connector) #14956-38U01 $55.79

We checked high ports (91-93) and it comes up with the same # as the '94. The original one on those cars has a different angel on the output side. The '94 one would prob work OK rerouting the hoses. Best way to get the right one is to have them look for the part with the VIN.

As Grimsta says, given these prices, if you can afford to wait and pay shipping, it doesn't look that bad to just get a new solenoid. It is a dealer-only part, however.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
DCT 105 for me too (along with 34 - knock sensor). Scottsdale gave me #14956-58C10 and I've seen that # on another '94 how-to. Does this trigger the knock sensor code? I have a new knock sensor but may not have to use it. Also please correct if wrong:

"To remove connector, pry metal clip with small pointed tool like a pick, then depress tabs on sides of female connector."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,107 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Getting the little metal clip off (as long as you don't lose it) is relatively easy. The trick is to get the clip positioned back in the connector before reinstall. If the clip is in the connector right, it just snaps onto the other connector.

The area of the knock sensor is hard to manuever in- I found it easier to pull up the lead from the top-side, get it set there, then drop it back down to plug it back in to the knock sensor. Seems like I spent more time screwing with the connector than the knock sensor itself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
on the egr solenoid valve:

the part# i got from scottsdale is 149565-8C10 as opposed to 149565-CU00 as mentioned on this thread. i believe that -8C10 is a standard sr20det part....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
217 Posts
Contacted my dealership specifically requesting the EGR Vacuum Solenoid for my '99 P11 and this was his response:

There are 3 different vacuum solenoid valves on the vehicle.
14956-38U10 which changes to 14956-38U01
14956-31U1A
14956-35U0A
So I have to pick which one to buy, and he sent a Vacuum Piping diagram with 3 different parts circled, each with differing numbers 14956V, 14956VA and 14956VB.

Which one do I purchase?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,107 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Contacted my dealership specifically requesting the EGR Vacuum Solenoid for my '99 P11 and this was his response:


So I have to pick which one to buy, and he sent a Vacuum Piping diagram with 3 different parts circled, each with differing numbers 14956V, 14956VA and 14956VB.

Which one do I purchase?
Can you post the diagram? Have you diagnosed this part as not functioning?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,107 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
It hasn't been diagnosed if you don't know which one is bad. You should be able to take each one of these out and test it to see if it works. The P-10 (my experience) only has one of these. Apparently the P-11 has 3. You need to figure out which one is bad. These are usually very easy to take off and bench test. I would try the one closest to the EGR valve (14956V) first. I'm looking at page EC-20 in the FSM which is a better diagram, but yours has the part numbers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
217 Posts
Well, it HAD been diagnosed. My mechanic determined that the EGR vacuum solenoid needed replacing. But enough time elapsed between my getting this diagram and taking it back to him that he can't recall which one now. Ah well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
844 Posts
I agree nice write up... might if it helps one person then it's worth it...
I'm bout to psot up my first how too: soemthing easy but i gotta start somewhere
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,107 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Well, it HAD been diagnosed. My mechanic determined that the EGR vacuum solenoid needed replacing. But enough time elapsed between my getting this diagram and taking it back to him that he can't recall which one now. Ah well.
He probably stuck his finger under the EGR valve and figured it wasn't working, which is usually the EGR vacuum solenoid. I haven't taken the time to figure out what the 3 do on a P-11, but if the EGR valve is not working, it's prob the solenoid closest to it (should have 3 little hose connections) which works like a vacuum operated on-off switch for the EGR valve. Again, it's easy to take it off and check it to see if it works. The other 2 prob have to do with the vacuum canister?? Need to read the FSM more and figure it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
i replaced mine, wasn't a big deal. price from scottsdale was $77 shipped. i called the local stealership and they wanted $108 +tax etc. - easily a $350 job there. took me a while to loosen the frozen nut, had to use a little vise grip. otherwise it's a 30 minute job, just beware of how you take out the metal retainer clip on the connector if you have that type. it's like a square circlip or snap-ring that you pry out the same way.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top