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Pining for "DMSentra"
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The balancer that has the marks can't be flipped. It's probable that the marks are covered with gunk, making them hard to see. Turn the crank by hand from the pass wheelwell and feel for the notches that make up the marks. Clean the notches good with a rag and brake parts or carburetor cleaner. The you can wet your finger with the paint color of your choice, smear it in the notches and wipe the surface clean leaving the notches colored. A grease pencil works well too instead of paint but doesn't last as long.
 

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On snedsN15 GTi with S3R we’ve been checking the timing as its not been done as yet. Question is he’s raised the idle to 850rpm to help with the blop blop blop normally found with lumpy cams. The car warm idles at 850rpm with the tps connected, however with this disconnected the idle goes to 900-950rpm.

Now to adjust timing to 17’ does he do it at the idle 950rpm (tps disconnected) or at the procedure 750 +/- 50rpm?
im thinking the idle needs to be at stock before adjusting the timing, going against the procedure which states check idle after?


Regards
david
 

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If I'm running stock cams or '91 highport cams on the '99 P11, would it be recommended to go up to 17-19 degrees or should it be retarded to 13 degrees?

Graci.
 
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On snedsN15 GTi with S3R we’ve been checking the timing as its not been done as yet. Question is he’s raised the idle to 850rpm to help with the blop blop blop normally found with lumpy cams. The car warm idles at 850rpm with the tps connected, however with this disconnected the idle goes to 900-950rpm.

Now to adjust timing to 17’ does he do it at the idle 950rpm (tps disconnected) or at the procedure 750 +/- 50rpm?
im thinking the idle needs to be at stock before adjusting the timing, going against the procedure which states check idle after?


Regards
david
it should be at least close to what it normaly idles when adjusting the timing. if the idle is too high with the tps disconnected, then the electronic advancement might kick in, so it'll look like your timing is higher than it should be.
 

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I was wondering the samething! soo....here's what i found

"If I'm running stock cams or '91 highport cams on the '99 P11, would it be recommended to go up to 17-19 degrees or should it be retarded to 13 degrees?"

"stock cammed (sp?) cars like 19º or so, at least with the newer lowports. 91 intake cammed cars don't like quite as much. Aftermarket cams like the S3's or S4's like a lot less, around like 13º's." - JustinP10

so perhaps us 99's with 91-93.5 stock cams should run lower degrees, perhaps 16-18 degress? at 89 octane? o_O"
 

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'Luke'
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Nope.
 
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the only way it might make you throw a code, is if it burns out the sensor.

i had that problem with the bosch o2 sensors. at 19* they would last about 4months or so. just get an ntk sensor and you'll be fine.
 

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just did mine this afternoon without removing the TPS sensor because everytime I take it off, the engine dies after like 10 seconds. :)
 
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just did mine this afternoon without removing the TPS sensor because everytime I take it off, the engine dies after like 10 seconds. :)
you need to dail up the idle if it's doing that.

you may also want to look into a consult interface. makes it a hell of a lot easier to adjust it, just click a button and it's in timing mode.
 

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you need to dail up the idle if it's doing that.

you may also want to look into a consult interface. makes it a hell of a lot easier to adjust it, just click a button and it's in timing mode.
And where can you find one of those? I've looked around...
 

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P10 hater
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^does that tell you where your timing is at as well? I'm guessing you just plug it into your laptop...
you'll need a timing light. the consult will allow you to get the car in timing mode without messing with the connectors. but sadly the ecu will always think that it's at 15*.

unless calum or someone else has figured out how to write to that part of the ecu's memory
 

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P10 hater
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you'll need a timing light. the consult will allow you to get the car in timing mode without messing with the connectors. but sadly the ecu will always think that it's at 15*.

unless calum or someone else has figured out how to write to that part of the ecu's memory
I've got the timing light already. And I've advanced the timing. I'm just not positive where my timing is at at. I want it at 19*, but I was hoping that thingymuhjigger would be able to tell me. I don't have any detonation, so it's not too high. I just want to find out for sure what it's at. And I wasn't sure it that would officially be able to tell me where it's at.
 
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I've got the timing light already. And I've advanced the timing. I'm just not positive where my timing is at at. I want it at 19*, but I was hoping that thingymuhjigger would be able to tell me. I don't have any detonation, so it's not too high. I just want to find out for sure what it's at. And I wasn't sure it that would officially be able to tell me where it's at.
if you've got it at the right most notch on the pulley then your at 19*.

if your missing the little peg on the block for the timing marks, get me a picture of where you've got your distributor at, i should be able to figure out where your at on that.
 
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