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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Obviously these are just some problems/ideas, proceed at your own risk

Hopefully we can compile some of the most common problems and some ideas of how to diagnose/repair them. The posts here should have the problem in the title of the post, then some ideas in the post, and some links to other threads!

Let me know what you guys think :) And feel free to send me corrections and post up new stuff with more common problems.

Here are some others that need to be written:
* Clunking
* Bad gas mileage
* Auto
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Your car doesn't want to start:

When the car doesn't start it's probably doing one of three things:

1) It's not making any noise or isn't starting at all
If it's not making any noise at all, then the first thing to check is the battery. If you have a multimeter, check the voltage. It should be in the range of 12 volts (14 while running). If you don't, then you can just assume it's the battery and try jumping it. Make sure that after connecting the good battery, you let them sit for a little bit for trying to start again. This gives the dead battery a little bit of time to gain some charge

2) It's making a clicking noise, or perhaps grinding a little bit
If you're car is making a clicking noise. This is almost definitely the starter. It means the starter is almost dead or the battery is dead. Try #1 above to charge the battery. If this doesn't work, you can locate your starter and bang it with a rubber mallet then try starting again. If banging it worked, you might be able to get a little bit more time out of your starter, but it's time to replace it.

3) You might have a fuel pump/fuel issue.
With the driver side door open, you can test for this by putting the key into the ignition and then turning it one click. Turning it one click should prompt the fuel pump to "prime". It sounds like a kind hissing noise. If you don't hear this noise, you may want to wait overnight and then try again in the morning. You should definitely hear it. If you don't, your fuel pump may be toast. it will likely need to be replaced. But before replacing, check ALL fuses (including fuel pump fuse, and all other fuses).

4) If the battery is dead but the battery is pretty new, there is a chance the alternator is messed up and not charging the batter appropriately. You can have both the alt. and battery. bench tested to determine where the problem is.

Good threads:
http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=69521
http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=69184
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Car dies/stalls:

1) Could be a charging system issue
If for some reason the alternator is broken or the battery isn't holding a charge. There could be problems with the car dying because it's not getting enough power. The easies way to test this is to first check the batt. voltage with the car off and then running. It should be about 12 volts off and 14 volts while running. Then you can disconnect the battery while the car is running, the car should run entirely off of the alternator. If not it might be busted. You can also remove the alternator and have it tested on the bench at a store like Autozone. Another indication that your alternator is busted is that all of your dash lights may come on intermittently while you are driving

2) Could be an EGR related issue
If the EGR is dirty or busted, the car may stall while going at very slow speeds. Most of the time a cleaning will do the trick and can also help with emissions/gas mileage


Good threads
http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=69521
http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=69136
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Car is sluggish/lame throttle response:

1) Your car probably needs to be tuned up
If the car is just feeling "a little bit old" or "doesn't get up and go like it used to", it's probably been 1000000 miles since your last FULL tune. You should just spend the bucks and do the full tune up. It doesn't cost much if you do it yourself, and may even pay for itself with an improvement in gas mileage.

2) It's probably your MAF
The MAF is probably the main offender for sluggish/lame throttle response. The MAF is responsible for keeping the ECU informed of the amount of air coming in. If the MAF is somehow broken, it can wreak havoc on the air/fuel ratio. This causes the car to run like crap. MAFs can be cleaned and regrounded. Cleaning/regrounding is pretty cheap and a good way to start. By cleaning and regrounding you may do one of three things: a) improve, b) fix the problem, or c) do nothing. By cleaning/regrounding at least you'll know if it's the MAF. If cleaning only improved the problem, you may consider replacing the MAF.

3) The timing may be off
If you haven't modded your car, this shouldn't be the case. But it could be...Check it or have it checked.

4) Could also be a knock sensor
Is your check engine light on?

Good threads:
http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=69321
http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=69546
http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=50231
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Car vibrates & shakes

If you're car is vibrating a lot it can be a bunch of different things. Here is a list of them, in order of increasing cost

1) Wheel Balancing
If the shaking occurs at higher speeds and seems to go away when you slow down, there's a good chance that the wheels are not balanced properly. A trip to a tire shop or mechanic should have you balanced in no time. This should help greatly with the bumpy ride, particularly at highway speeds

1a) Could also be a warped rim, did you hit a curb?

2) Alignment
If your alignment is out of whack, it can also increase vibration and harshness. Depending on your g20, an alignment can help. On P11s there isn't much to adjust so unless you ran over a curb or something, an aligment won't help that much. A shop can do the alignment for you. You should get a report telling you how far things were off and what adjustments were made

3) Motor mounts
If the car seems to just vibrate a lot, at idle, while moving, or particularly in reverse, it's more than possible that your mount(s) are shot. To inspect motor mounts, find them and inspect them for cracking or bulging or breaking. P11s have 4 mounts for manual transmissions and 3 for auto trannys. If you find one that's busted, you can try and repair it yourself or take it to a shop to be fixed. Many people fill their mounts in to make them solid, this will only increase NVH (noise, vibration, harshness). If you want the original ride, you should replace your mounts with OE mounts.

4)Worn/damaged suspension
It's possible that your suspension is messed up. It might be time for new struts, new bushings, or other components. They aren't always easy to diagnose. You can test shocks/struts by pushing on any corner of the car and then releasing. The car should bounce once or twice then stop. Any more than that and they may need replacing. You can also inspect bushings for cracking or damage.

Good threads:
http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=62297
http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=67082
http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=67948
http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=59058
See my sig for motor mounts write-up
 

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Discussion Starter #7
great idea, i'm gunna edit this with info when I get home
one small thing... alignments can't fix vibrations. only steering wheel straightness, tire wear, and pull
Thanks man, this should help some people with some common problems.

As far as alignment, I have had a few cars aligned and it definitely seemed to help with vibrations but it's definitely not a huge change. Just one thing to check :)
 

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Excellent idea. Should be a whole new sub-forum: 'Answers to your problems' or 'Look no further' or 'Guru speaks'. I'm a newbie here, but not to machanics. It takes time to find the answer in long threads. Especially if it has guesses, mis-diagnosis' and regional newspeak sprinkled about. Go with it. Keep up the good work. Eric j
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Excellent idea. Should be a whole new sub-forum: 'Answers to your problems' or 'Look no further' or 'Guru speaks'. I'm a newbie here, but not to machanics. It takes time to find the answer in long threads. Especially if it has guesses, mis-diagnosis' and regional newspeak sprinkled about. Go with it. Keep up the good work. Eric j
thanks man, trying to get some more written :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Diagnosing/adjusting a clutch

A clutch is definitely a wear item. As your car gets older the clutch will wear and show some issues:

1) The pedal feels wrong (too stiff or too squishy):
P10 - Cable clutch

The cable clutch can get old, or lose its lubrication which can cause a stiff clutch pedal, or other problems. It is both adjustable and replaceable

http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=56190
http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10790
http://www.se-r.net/transaxle_clutch/adjust.html
http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=29610


P11 - hydraulic clutch

The P11s have a hydraulic clutch and there isn't as much you can do to adjust it but there is one nut you can play with.

http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=58123
http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=9801
http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=29996

2) Not sure if the clutch is toasted?
It's pretty easy to diagnose a bad clutch. Get out on an open road where you've got a little room. Get the car to about 30 miles per hour and then shift into 5th gear (5 speed) or 6th gear (6 speed) and give it a lot of gas. I've also done the test in 4th. You should be lugging it now, and the car should bog. If you notice the RPMs fly but your speed isn't changing then your clutch is slipping. This is the beginning of the end. How long you'll get out of the clutch is anyone's guess.

http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=36596
 

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Your car doesn't want to start:
When the car doesn't start it's probably doing one of three things:

In my case it's #2, I hear clicking but no turning...

I'm assuming the starter is gone...
 

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Merlin, for the clutch diagnosis test you should shift into the highest gear you have i.e. 5th. Or 6th if you have a 5 speed
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Your car doesn't want to start:
When the car doesn't start it's probably doing one of three things:

In my case it's #2, I hear clicking but no turning...

I'm assuming the starter is gone...
The starter could be gone but you need to check the battery first. You can:
1) swap it out with a known good battery
2) Use a multi meter and measure it
3) jump it
4) go to autozone and have them test it for free (take it out of the car and bring it with you)

I've seen the clicking be both the starter or the battery. Battery is easy to check...have you tried jumping it?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Merlin, for the clutch diagnosis test you should shift into the highest gear you have i.e. 5th. Or 6th if you have a 5 speed
OK man, changed it up :) 4th gear has always worked for me...whatever you do low speed, high gear :)
 

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In reponse to Agitek. You posted in that other thread where we told the guy it soundsl ike his PNP. I'd say your case is more likely the starter since you hear clicking, thats the starter tryin to turn. If it were your PNP you would get nothing from the starter, not even a click because the PNP would be malfunctioning. But if your getting a click, PNP is saying its ok for the starter to get voltage
 

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Thanks guys,

Yes, I changed the battery last week. I have a feeling the starter was drawing power from the battery and killed my original.

Now, the instrumentation is very bright and the light are strong.

I'll change the starter tomorrow morning.

Will let you know.

Thanks again for confirming my doubts.
 

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Job completed... I can't believe the amount of wires running all over the place... You have to weave your hands through that mess just to get to the 2 bolts holding down the starter... Under the car you have to unplug a connector, I can't believe you can put connectors all over the place like that. German cars are not built this way...

Bad engineering jobs by the japs.

Another thing I spoted was a huge short on the screw holding the positive lead to the starter... It melted the screw... Something happened there... The rubber cover to the lead was not covering the screw... You have to wonder what caused this...

Last thing, the rebuilt starter is slightly bigger...

Thank you for the instructions on remove the starter, must of saved an hour for sure.
 

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WTF are you talkin about!? German cars are crap, all f(*&in mish mashed together with everything in the way and not enough clearances, how many have you worked on? I can replace a G20 starter in 40 minutes
 

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ummm do i smell some stickey

lol, great write up
 
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