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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Once you snap out of your dreamworld and admit to yourself that the BOSE headunit is a piece of junk, you'll finally want to change it out. Its not as plug and play as most other cars. BOSE has decided to make it a pain in the ass. Take a few hours, have a beer and follow these basic steps to aftermarket HU heaven.
Most things required for this installation can be found at your local Walmart. (please dont buy the headunit there too)
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Basic Things required:
1. Flat Head Screwdriver
2. + type screwdriver (yea i forgot the name)
3. Wire Stripers
4. A cold beverage (i like Heineken)
5. A headunit
6. Scosche car specific Connector (NN03)
7. Scosche 2/4 Channel Speaker Level Converter (FAI-3A)
8. Patience
9. Knife
10. Ball point Pen + paper tape (for labels)
11. Comfortable working enviroment (so yo ass dont hurt)
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Getting to work ...

-if your dash doesnt look similar then you have the wrong car, moron


-begin by removing the screws by the shifter on the underside


-pull gently where the screws have been removed


-slowly moving upwards pull the rest gently forward


-once it all snaps out it can be turned around and placed on top of the dash, then remove the 4 screws that hold the radio brackets(2 on the right, 1 on the left and 1 on the bottom, GOLD colored screws)



-once you have disconnected all wiring harnesses, remove the brackets on each side of the BOSE, you WILL need these (NOTE:these come off very hard, an electric screwdriver with a lot of force is required!!!!!)



-this is the BOSE headunit out of the 2000 Infiniti G20


-my work area, if you are NOT installing a satellite receiver DISREGARD the yellow/black/red cable bundle on the left


-prepare all wires by twisting them clockwise


-fold in 1/2 for better connection with converter


-this diagram should be provided with all headunits, most companies follow these color codes, THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT FOR A GOOD INSTALLATION


-the level converter, most info labeled in picture ... match HU color coded wires to correspond to Scoche Car Harness Connector on the other side of the Converter (! the Scosche is labeled right on every wire!)


continues ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
-instructions provided with Converter SHOULD be read (sorry guys)


-set the converter to the appropriate "factory amp" setting
YOU MUST SET ALL THE GAINS TO 0 BEFORE TURNING ON!


-solder/wire-nut/glue all the appropriate wires together, converter holds the wires via little screws I HIGHLY RECOMEND SOLDER, a well done job makes a happy homeboy :D


-once connected into remaining stock harness, adjust the GAINS setting on the Converter



-reinstall the 2 brackets off the BOSE and align with whatever will take the remaining empty spots, then screw in in place of the BOSE




-reinstall the dash

TURN THAT ISH UP!!! :D :D :D


(i will update as necesary)
 

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Nice write up, clean install. I have to point out one descrepancy. You said ya need to grab a beer (hienikin) I notice there is a pepsi on the table. lol. How do you like your alpine deck? wich one is it. I want to replace my hu but am waiting until the ipod interface deck comes out this summer.
 

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DAMN nice write up man. I will be doing an install next week (once my deck comes in) and will use this. One question though, How did you know when your speakers were adjusted right (using the gains from the adapter)? And, did you put the adapter behind the deck...so if you need to get to it again, you'd have to take the panel out again?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
the pepsi followed the heineken. :D

i love this alpine deck. 9813. very very clear sound. plus so many options u can quite literally play for hours with the perfect settings.
it is going out of production and u will have a VERY hard time buying it now.(originally $400, now $270)

the gains must be set all the way down when u first connect it. (i will edit that in now). you adjust them by setting them to how u like. to what sounds right with no distortion at high volume. mine are set about 1/2. yes everything is neatly tucked away behind the HU, i also made sure not to allow anything to fly around or rattle. you do have to remove everything to adjust them or add a sub to the converter(yes u can).
 

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Oh ok makes sence now. Why would you want to add a sub to the converter? It is usually the sub that connects to an amp, and then the amp connects to the Headunit, not the converter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thats what i meant. sub, amp ... all the same j/k lol ... i know theyre not.

the converter can also be used to add amps/subs to the stock BOSE HU.
 

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Can someone make this a Sticky thread please!!!!!!!! Very nice write-up!!!

Now we need a P10 write up......volunteers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i'd do one if i had a "victim" P10.

oh btw, the din pocket is out of a 93-97 altima.
 

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How long did it take you to figure out which wire goes where, and connect it all? This is what I'm getting, so it should be almost identicle to yours:

Schoche OEA-4 adapter


Nissan Harness 95+


And then you also used the sheet that came with the HU to wire it to the converter/adapter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
it did not take me long to do. i just really took my time.
i was very precise and made sure everything was literally perfect.

the wires on the harness you have shown there are each labeled what they are (ex: Left Front Positive, Ground, etc.)

the harness colors matched up perfectly with the alpine colors (yellow = 12v, red = ignition, black = ground etc.)
yes i used the sheet that came with the HU because the alpine wires werent labeled as the harness wires were
 

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Oh ok cool. When you got your HU, the wires that came out of it connected to a harness (if they did, it means you'd have to cut the harness off), or were they just wires w/o a harness. These wires then connect to the nissan harness.
 

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DAMNIT!!....

"once you have disconnected all wiring harnesses, remove the brackets on each side of the BOSE, you WILL need these (NOTE:these come off very hard, an electric screwdriver with a lot of force is required!!!!!)"

I tried everything--I even used a drill and all that I did was strip the screw heads...Y cant I take this thing apart !?!?
 

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I tried everything--I even used a drill and all that I did was strip the screw heads...Y cant I take this thing apart !?!
You need to get to the Gym more often.... :p

Drill the screws to remove them, them buy new ones. That's the easiest way if you've already stripped them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
yes the brackets come off very hard, very very hard. low speed, high torque is required, a quick jerk also helps!

now you'll have to drill through the screws as mentioned above.

my alpine HU had bare wires at the ends.
 

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Reverend_Ezekiel said:


You need to get to the Gym more often.... :p

Drill the screws to remove them, them buy new ones. That's the easiest way if you've already stripped them.
I practically live in the gym--if they would let me bring in a pillow I would sleep their....:evil:

ChickenWing said:
yes the brackets come off very hard, very very hard. low speed, high torque is required, a quick jerk also helps!

now you'll have to drill through the screws as mentioned above.

my alpine HU had bare wires at the ends.
This is the thing--I went through I dunno how many screws and it seemed like I was'nt even slightly moving the screws.. BUt then again I was very cautious about it since I didnt want to ruin anymore screw heads and I didnt want to damage the HU either..

I'll just have a couple of sets of extra screw heads available b4 I start this time. Its just so weird to me--since every other car's HU has never been this hard to take apart.
 

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Alright well I started wiring today, and I'm left with all of these wires that come out from the harness. Where do they go? I think the amp turn-on, get's connected to the HU. That's all I know I think.



Help please.

Wires that are left:

Big Harness:
Orange (Dash Light Illumination)
Red (12V Ignition/Switched)
Yellow (12V Battery Constant)
Blue (Power Antenna)
Black (Chassis Ground)

Little Harness:
Black w/ White Line (Amplifier Ground)
Blue w/ White Line (Amplifier Turn-On)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
those get soldered into the HU's wiring harness.
only the speaker cables must go through the converter.

take all those wires you listed and match them to the ones on the HU, the speaker wires on the HU match to those in the converter, they must correspond

anything thats "ground" can be safely soldered together
 
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