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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
(Click on images to enlarge)

BEFORE: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i130/slimlou/My%20Ride%20Pics/?action=view¤t=Myenginebay002.jpg


AFTER:





I’m not taking credit for figuring this out, that goes to ‘daveracer’ Thanks to Loek for telling me about this.

BEFORE performing this, take a close look at how the throttle cable sits inside the throttle drum, the cable adjuster, etc. So when you go to reinstall/connect it all back up, you do it same way.


1. Loosen the two adjusting/lock nuts (14mm wrench).


2. Next, you need to disconnect the barrel-end of the throttle cable from the Throttle Drum. TO do this, you need to rotate the throttle drum in a counter clockwise direction (yellow arrow). Once the end of the cable is free, pull the cable free from the bracket by the adjusting/lock nuts. BE CAREFUL!!! It might be hard to pull this out, DO NOT go reefing on the throttle cable! You WILL kink it! Instead, use a small screwdriver to help lift/pry under the rubber U-grommet to get it out the bracket.


3. Next, you need to remove the throttle cable from the bracket to give you a little more slack, but more importantly, you don’t want to kink your throttle cable. To prevent kinking the cable, I found it easier to bend back the hook a little (yellow arrow in red circle) rather than trying to force it out.




4. With the cable now free, you go ahead and reroute the throttle cable. It’s not rocket science how/where. NO tight bends! Again, you want to avoid kinking it. Too tight of a bend may cause binding/excess friction inside the cable. You don’t want to do that. Just route it between the firewall and Intake. See the few pics below to give you an idea how/where I routed my cable. Basically, when you reroute the cable, you want is such that when you reinstall the U-grommet, the throttle cable should not be under any tension than it had when it was in it’s original routed position. It should sit with as much slack/free play as it sat in its original routed position.





5. Reattaching the throttle cable is straight forward. Again, to avoid kinking the throttle cable, push down directly over the U-grommet to reinstall it. To help with the reinstall, apply a little grease the grommet and it will snap right in. Now reattach the barrel end of the cable into the throttle drum. Ensure that the cable sits back into the groove of the throttle drum.

6. Most likely you’ll need to readjust the throttle cable via the two adjusting/lock nuts. Because you’ve rerouted the cable, the adjustment of it will be off. If you don’t adjust it now, and there’s a gap, when you start your car, you’re engine is going to rev up & down on it’s own! lol Yeah, I found this out the hard way. I rushed! lol Take a look at the two pics below. The one on the left is a properly adjusted throttle cable. The pic on the right, is not. Basically, your going to tighten/loosen the adjusting/locking nuts until you’ve properly adjusted the cable. Once you have, tighten them up and you’re done!









 

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Im a organ donor.
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4,843 Posts
i gotta do this LOL thanks for the awesome writeup man.
 
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whoops... i think what i meant to ask was non rr.. does that make sense?
yup. i did it to mine, lovin' the new look. now i just gotta wash the engine bay (dust storms suck)
 

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Nonaggressor
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I've spent hours trying to get this to work and have never succeeded.
Reading your write makes me want to give it another shot.
Nice write up!
 

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'Luke'
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5,319 Posts
Holy crap, you did that write-up and your heat shield disappeared, and a header is now in it's place.
Yes, that is the reward he got from his engine for doing this mod :naughty:
 

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Registered
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8,170 Posts
awesome writeup slimlou! I did this write after dave but had wanted to for years. I seen a b14 with it done like 5 years ago. It make the bay so much cleaner. This is a must for anyone. BTW rumor has it that the b15 SR came with a shorter cable and can be swapped out so you don't have all that slack tucked away behind the motor.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #13
I've spent hours trying to get this to work and have never succeeded.
Reading your write makes me want to give it another shot.
Nice write up!
The trick I believe is step #2. Removing the cable from the that hanger bracket. Gives bot the needed flexibility & extra length needed to accomplish this.

Looks good Lou, but why didn't you save the pics to the gallery?
Ummmm, I was lazy?!?! LOL Actually, I keep forgetting to do that! It's second nature to u/l to photobucket. And before I posted this, I sent the write-up to both 'daveracer' & 'Loek' for feedback/accuracy first. So that's why they were not u/l to the gallery first. But I guess I'll u/l there soon enough.

Yes, that is the reward he got from his engine for doing this mod :naughty:
Holy crap, you did that write-up and your heat shield disappeared, and a header is now in it's place.
^^^^ Exactly what he said! Right after I did this, when I went to start the car and came back to check everything one last time, voila! My heat shield disappeared and a header appeared!


awesome writeup slimlou! I did this write after dave but had wanted to for years. I seen a b14 with it done like 5 years ago. It make the bay so much cleaner. This is a must for anyone. BTW rumor has it that the b15 SR came with a shorter cable and can be swapped out so you don't have all that slack tucked away behind the motor.
Really? Then again, how much of a PITA would it be to have swap out the accelerator cable? I'm not a small guy, so first getting it through the fire wall, then having to crawl under the driver's dash to connect it up to the pedal wouldn't be fun.... And the expense of having to replace a part that isn't broke............wait! Scratch that last statement.... It's fun replacing parts that don't need replacing! lol
 

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Registered
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I've spent hours trying to get this to work and have never succeeded.
Reading your write makes me want to give it another shot.
Nice write up!
This takes 5 minutes to do. Were you trying to do it without disconnecting the cable from the bracket? BTW after this you can remove the bracket on the front of the engine and on the firewall. Weight reduction :naughty:!
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #15
I've spent hours trying to get this to work and have never succeeded.
Reading your write makes me want to give it another shot.
Nice write up!
OK, pics u/l to the gallery in the How-To section, but is there a way to post them into a thread still as a thumbnail? Or just full size pics?
 

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'Luke'
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5,319 Posts
Lol
 
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