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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
How to convert a p10 to a hydraulic clutch setup.

Parts needed:

P11 clutch master(no others work)
P11 slave
slave/tranny spacer
P11 fluid res and hose (others may work)
fluid damper
Hydro Tranny
hydo lines (i am replacing my rubber with the steel, and also not installing the damper.)
welder (yea you need one. for 1 little weld)



Process
remove clutch cable, remove bolts on interior on pedal, undo clips for sensors on pedal.

Then remove brass?/treated metal retainer for the clutch cable. (youll need this in a bit put it somewhere safe)

the p11 parts are not going to fit right away there is some trimming and modding involved

pull the carpet and rubber material out of the way where the pedal was bolted to . you will have to cut some to get to the metal.

around the bolt hole you should see/feel a stand off tack welder to the firewall. you need to remove it

good luck fitting a drill with a spot bit. a dremel and chisel worked quickest for me..remove this before proceeding

now you should see the hole where the clutch cable came in. you are going to have to open that up to fit the master through.

i made a template of the master. (i also used this template to form the gasket ) then transfer ed it to the firewall.

now you need to cut the firewall. a air saw / body saw works well...or snips if desperate. (not recommended since the cuts are ugly. also the standoff was still on the firewall in this pic)


now that the master fits. connect it to the pedal and then the firewall... you will notice your mountings short out of 3.
the main reason you need the p11 master is due to space issues...its very tight

the clutch cable bracket removed earlier will need to be cut (or you could possibly use a bolt and rig it to stay in place...but why?)


now you can mount it through the firewall / master / and pedal.

bolt loosely so you can mark where you need to weld a tab on the clutch pedal for the 3rd bolt

bend a piece of metal. mark for center of bolt hole. drill . tack tab to pedal. test fit. tweak. final weld


i sprayed my pedal witht some rust over type black paint

now that all 3 bolts can be used. i then took the template from earlier and made a gasket with some painters tape and silicone. this will prevent water from getting in the hole you made for the master (the tape is just so the silicone didnt stick to my template..its not part of the gasket)

mounted pedal/mc and bolted everything down.


back around to the engine bay.

as i mentioned i will not be using the damper or rubber lines. i will be going directly from the master to a hardline i bent, then from there to the stainless line into the slave.






using the damper/oem setup you will go master/ damper/slave


mount your slave to your tranny with the spacer in between



now mount your resivor up by the strut tower...i used the stock mounting point for the

and that is it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
ok hit a little snag today.

with the p11 clutch pedal & the master cylinder mounted, the stud on the pedal barley clears/goes trought the firewall... there is no possible way to mount it/bolt it down.

below is a picture of a spacer that is spot welded to the firewall of the p10,
this spacer thing is about the same thickness of the master cylinder, i wonder if this has to be removed?

anybody know?

also with the p10, there is that cap thingy that the cable runs through, it supplies the other bolt for the pedal, being now that i am not running that, what do i do for the other bolt hole? just run a bolt from the firewall, into the cabin & put a nut on it?

Pic of spacer piece on the inside of the firewall on the p10
 

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Discussion Starter #11
so im nearly complete with this process...

except 1 major issue....


how the hell do you secure the MC to the firewall?

I have a tab weleded on the side of the p11 pedal so that i can bolt it to the top mount, i can bolt 1 of the stock bolts into the firewall,,,but i cannot get the other one. for 2 reasons.

1) when using the cable system, there is a little brass cup that the cable slides through...this has a stud pressed into it & goes in the upper right hole behind the strut tower (this is the one i cant figure out how to duplicate)
2) being that i am not using the cable system, i have to connect the 3rd bolt, but dont know how. I was going to tack it to the pedal, & then when sliding it through the wall...i realized there was no way to get a wrench back there to tighten the bolt.



so yeah now im stuck....
 

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P11's have the 'upper' bolt welded to the pedal while the 'lower' bolt is tacked to the firewall facing the inside of the car. Getting a welder in there may cause some issues with space. Drill your hole, slide a bolt with some JBweld on the end of it and put a nut on it to keep it in place, when the JBweld is dry you can remove the nut and bolt up the MC from inside the car.

What are you doing about the third bolt on the top of the pedal assembly?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thats what i was wondering, i didnt know if the "gasket" thats the p11's run provided this bolt, or if it was weleded to the firewall.
i dont think i have ti drill a hole, both holes line up in the firewall & pedal (i think i wided one of the hole)

I welded a piece of steel on the side of the pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ok i managed to over come the issue with the bottom bolt that is impossible to reach from the engine bay

take the stock cable sleeve & cut




then clean it up a bit (i had a template of the MC that i used to make sure it would clear)
& now its ready
 

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Discussion Starter #15
hydro setup all mated....& trans is 100% ready to go in now




when i get everything done im going to clean up this thread with the step by step process
 
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