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Discussion Starter #1
Searched around a bit and couldn't seem to find an answer about this...

I have a 1999 and am throwing the P0505 code. The IACV seems to be occasionally getting stuck in open position.

If I was to replace the IACV, is it simple plug and play or is there a process that needs to occur to recalibrate idle air with the new valve?

I would assume this is outlined somewhere in the FSM... I have found the pages about diagnosing the IACV specifically but I cannot seem to locate info about any "recalibration" process.

Would someone kindly point me in the right direction?

Thanks in advance!
 

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You should first begin my doing an Idle Volume Air Relearn. Should take about 5 min. Then do your diagnostic. If you still think you should replace your IACV, go ahead and do it. Then perform the Idle Volume Air Relearn again to make sure you're idling correct, 800+/- 50 RPM.

Let me know how it goes- I almost replaced mine, b/c of idling issues, but it was my MAF (all signs so far, fingers crossed). Unless you're super flexible, you'll probably need to remove the throttle body first, then remove and replace the IACV.

Post your findings, I bought a new IACV, and probably will install it soon too.
 

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here is the procedure. The procedure is listed on page EC-66.

1. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 1 second.
2. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic “PRE-CONDITIONING”
(previously mentioned) are in good order.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Start the engine and let it idle for at least 15 seconds.
7. Disconnect throttle position sensor harness connector (brown),
then reconnect it within 5 seconds.
8. Wait 15 seconds.
9. Make sure that idle speed is within specifications. If not, the
result will be incomplete. In this case, find the cause of the
problem by referring to the NOTE below.
10. Rev up the engine two or three times. Make sure that idle
speed and ignition timing are within specifications.

ITEM SPECIFICATION
Idle speed M/T: 800±50 rpm
A/T: 800±50 rpm (in “P” or “N” position)
Ignition timing M/T: 15°±2° BTDC
A/T: 15°±2° BTDC (in “P” or “N” position)
 

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Is this really needed for the P11? I replaced my IACV about a couple of months ago and didn't do this timing procedure, I don't think I've had any issues with it except it idles high (1000-1100 RPM) at cold starts but I thought that was normal? Should I still go through timing procedure?
 

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disconnect battery and change it and no need to relearn on a 00 plus. unless it already went into safe mode on you before the swap

since u have a 99 just disconnect batt first and change it

4 bolts two hoses attached
annoying access
take off your intake before doing this for easy access.
trick use wd40 around the two hoses to remove them and to easily slide them back on during reinstall

gl
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the replies! Where is everyone getting the best OEM pricing from now? How is Perry Infiniti Parts?
 

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i had this once on 7 different g20's each time i fixed it for about 80 bucks get the whole intake from a junkyard p11 with relatively low mileage switch the iacv and done. The reason i never bought it new was because it's one of those parts that once i put a good one in even if used once seafoamed and use good gas from that point on you should be good.

one of the ones i did was 4 yrs ago and no problems knock on wood. recently i got another g and it was the first thing i had to do and pass on obd2 now no worries for a while

but by all means if u want to go new go for it but i can't tell you where would be cheaper because i think they all price them like it was still a 2012 vehicle.

check www.rockauto.com
 

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For a 99,

Does the ECU get blown out if i drove on the car with a bad iacv for 3k miles?

Would the car still run if the ECU is blown out?

I replaced my IACV then i reset the ECU after 200-250 miles the check engine came on.

everytime i reset the ECU the check engine would come back on after 200-250 miles.

My car idles at around 500-550 RPMs
 

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IACV problems are the worst. I stupidly bought one from ebay and my car ran like crap. The ebay ones are defective, they have a metal plate on them that blows your fuse. Stay away.
 

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disconnect battery and change it and no need to relearn on a 00 plus. unless it already went into safe mode on you before the swap

since u have a 99 just disconnect batt first and change it

4 bolts two hoses attached
annoying access
take off your intake before doing this for easy access.
trick use wd40 around the two hoses to remove them and to easily slide them back on during reinstall

gl
Regarding the intake, is replacing the gasket recommended?
 
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