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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so when I was under my car the other day installing my short shifter, I decided to also install the ES bushings while I was at it. I hadnt found anything telling me how to install the bushing, and looking at it I almost thought that it was meant to go on either side of the bottom of the short shift knob. So I figure if I couldnt firgure it out, others might have the same problem, so here you are:
First off, either jack up your vehicle, or drive it up on ramps. If you are jacking it up make sure that you use jack stands and check the stability of the car you will be under . Now, since I didnt take the time to figure out what size the bolt actually was, crawl under your vehicle with your full set of ratchets and find the catalytic converter (it is connected to your downpipe, which is connected to your header). After you have found the converter trace back forward under the car untill you find this view:

It is hard to see but you remove the bolt that is surrounded with a red box, and take out the screw and both the washers on it, then push out the metal insert that is inside the old bushing. Then push the old bushing through the hole at the end of the shiftlinkage, look at the green box and imagine it without the bolt. Now, you should have these pieces out:

(MAke sure you keep the central metal tube that runs through the bushing, you will reuse it as well as the screw with two washers to put in the new one) So, now take your new bushings and compare them to the old ones, do we see how much stiffer these new bushings are, woo,hoo, only the stiffest.

Now take your lube, I used Energy suspension lube that I bought at Autozone, be absolutely sure that you get one that is ok for the urethan bushing we are using here.
Take your new bushing and smear a generous amount over pretty much all surfaces except for the rims on both that dont touch any surface. Now shove them back into the thing inside the green box in picture 1, with the rim sides out. Take the metal tube that we remembered to save, and lube the outside of it, then push it through the new bushings. Take your bolt and two washers, making sure that the concave and convex surfaces meet (also that you lubricated this surface on the bushing). You may have to tug on the linkage just a bit to make it line up with the bolt hole you are aiming for.

Now before anyone says this is too easy to warrant a how to. I have spoken with a few members about this and some think it is difficult to do, IT ISNT. Took me about 45 minutes including jack time. And I have seen an improvement in the shifting. I installed my shifter first, which was a surprising difference in shift length, so I can tell the two apart. The bushing is not an amazingly crazy modification, but it does make for a significantly
more exact shift. I havent been able to grind it, no matter how sloopy I shift. (By the way I got these in a package deal from another member, so I dont know where to get them, but I am pretty sure they run less than 10$.) Anyways, hope this helps someone out there.
 

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do you have a part number for the bushings by any chance???

i need to get some cause my shifter moves all over the damn place (also need motor mounts)

joe
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I dont know the part # but with a search I found this posted by SE-R DAN
"*Shift Stabilizer bushing: 7-1109G
This part is listed for a 95-99 Sentra so I wasn't sure if it would fit. It ended up working perfectly on a '99 P11."
So I am thinking this one would work for you too...but I am unsure, you have a highport and if the one I have will fit yours, then the one for the p11 would too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok Ill admit that I have hade lube issues in the past. I installed a swaybay with urathane bushings and didnt properly lube it, so it squeeked like a mofo, if you installed and it doesnt squeek, then you are good, maybe you dont have to...
 

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Pizdeet kak Trotsky
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Silicone spray I spose .......... Mind you I would perfer to use copper based grease however the PVC concerned might get a tad upset about that :)


Yeah that'll quieten it


I put this on most things ......... I love it :lol:
Dunno bout rubber tho :tired:
 

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Had this on my old P10 5speed. I got it for only like $5-$8 bucks. An install time was only about 30minutes (including jacking up and down the car off the ground).
Made a hell of a difference. I agree.. no matter how crazy, lazy or sloppy I shifted I never ONCE ever grinded a gear after that lil ES bushing install. I need to get one for my P11.
:D
 

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The shifter stabiliser bushing doesn't move so it's not going to squeak like a suspension bush..

Justin has them on everythingg20.com.
 

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drunken master
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I have the red bushing in my stablizer. but i was to lasy to want to lube it. i ended up installing when i was puting in my current motor allong with a b$M so i was able to notice much other than i had 1/2 the trow distance i did before
 

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Pizdeet kak Trotsky
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markbuts3 said:
The shifter stabiliser bushing doesn't move so it's not going to squeak like a suspension bush..
Maybe he has a mouse under there :naughty:
 

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Mautai916 said:
why luve the bushing before you put it in? Is it because its easier to put in? Mines went in without lube with no problems, so im just wondering..
Although the bushing does not move like Mark says, lubing it may help with premature wear? If you notice the OEM bushing, it has ribs son there is minimal contact between itself & the connecting rod. The ES bushing has no ribs so it has a greater contact area with the connectiong rod. But for sure I can see it help with the install.

Just my :2cents:


BTW, great write up! I've got my bushing waiting here to be installed! This write up will save me the time looking around!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
glad it helped you man!
 

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Thanks for the writeup! I just did mine, and it felt great! I've been having a bit of a problem shifting into 5th lately (maybe it's because I moved my seat back, but I digress) and this helped out a good bit. BTW, you mentioned you forgot to note the size of the bolt. It's a 14mm. I used a short socket and a 3" extension to reach it, a flat blade screwdriver to get the old bushing out, and hands for greasing. The nut on the other side seems to be welded in, so that's all the tools you should need!
 
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