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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I own a Nissan Primera P11 with a rocker roller SR20DE

I've replaced my OEM pullies with a set of Unorthodox Racing pullies (p/n:041001702)

I checked for the presence of the steel sleave as stated in the UR instruction manual. It's in place. I've checked the part numer of the pully and it's the correct one.

The hole were the seal should stay is in perfect condition. As is the shaft.

The front main cranck seal keeps coming out after 10 minutes of driving. On my forth seal now.

What is going on, why does it keep coming out? My friends with the same car/engine have fitted this kit with no problem what so ever.

Only thing I can think of is that the snout on the UR pully is longer then the one on the OEM pully.

But why doesn't anyone else with this engine/pully combo have this problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
2 piece kit

Everywhere I searched said it shouldn't be a problem.

NPOC guys have fitted these on RR SR20DE ith no problems at all. P11 G20 guys have done it also.
 

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This is a direct quote from Andreas Miko on the subject:
Quote:
For all you SR20DE 2000-01, SR16VE and SR20VE owners, do not, I repeat, do not put any type of aftermarket pullies on your crank. These motors have a 4 counter weight crank shaft that is prone to vibrations in the higher RPMs. If you put a aftermarket pully that does not have a dampener in it like the UR pullies you will have premature bearing wear in your motors and also you can have problems with your clutch bolts or flywheel bolts coming loose.
 

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The bolt its the prob...you have to take out the pully and send it to the machine shop to resurface where the stock bolt its seat on the pully that its...the 97-8 p11 does not have this prob..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Don't really care about bearing wear and dampeners or flywheel bolts, pully should fit but doesn't keep the seal in or something.
 

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stoney78 said:
Don't really care about bearing wear and dampeners or flywheel bolts, pully should fit but doesn't keep the seal in or something.
Its becouse of the bolt ..does not feet correctly....I friend off mine 2001 rr motor have the exactly same prob as you... we took the pully out send to the machine shop to feet the stock bolt .. and that its...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What part of the bolt causes the problem?

And wat part of the pully/bolt should I have modified for it to fit?
 

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The bolt if a remember correctly have some type of ring in the top...this ring does not fit the pully very well...that its why you are keeping blowing the seals..so ..you have to remove some pars of the plly to make it fit well.... anyways Im going to ask my friend for more deteals..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
jpsr20det said:
The bolt if a remember correctly have some type of ring in the top...this ring does not fit the pully very well...that its why you are keeping blowing the seals..so ..you have to remove some pars of the plly to make it fit well.... anyways Im going to ask my friend for more deteals..
Would be great, thanx in advance man :flowers:
 

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The head of the bolt its to big...
 

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my friend has over 100.000 miles no probs at all..its better to prevent cavitation ...
 

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Right, I just checked FAST and only the March 2001 onwards have the bolt with washer built in to it. All before in Europe have a separate washer....
 

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jpsr20det said:
my friend has over 100.000 miles no probs at all..its better to prevent cavitation ...
The crank pulley doesnt affect W/P cavitation. You can change out just the W/P pulley to fix that problem.

You sure youre ordering the proper crank seal? Are you pushing it in too far when you install it?


- Greg -
 

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MrFancypants said:
The crank pulley doesnt affect W/P cavitation. You can change out just the W/P pulley to fix that problem.

You sure youre ordering the proper crank seal? Are you pushing it in too far when you install it?


- Greg -
I know. the crak pully does not prevent cavitation..of course its the water.. its was a misunderstood I was thinking of the 2 set pully etc.. :zoinks: my fault
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Proper cranck seal, checked VIN in FAST.

All the way in/out makes no difference. Had 4 attempts now with 4 new seals and 2 different mechanics.

15 minutes of idle on the bridge, no leak. 10 minutes driving it and lose 2 liters of oil in that period.

Checked why, everytime the seal popped out and is riding between the pully and the engine.

Should the pully be flush with the engine?
 

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Try that thing with the bolt, Igor, that seems to be a logical explanation.

Merk je enige prestatieverbetering ? Any noticeable gain in power ?
 

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'Luke'
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You mentioned you drove around with it for 10 minutes each time, but I guess that, during that time, you drove slowly to see if all was well.
I hope you get it sorted out soon ! I hope the advice from our friend In Chile will help.
 
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