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Discussion Starter #1
aight u no how those big v8 dragsters always sound like they are goin to stall. u no, u get that rumble and the bouncing rpms. cant really think how to describe it. well, all around i think it makes ur car sound faster. i was wonderin how could i get that. lower my idal?? how bad yall think this will mess up my car? make it slower at all. any thought??
 

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I really don't think you want what you are asking for. I experienced it with a kinked vacuume line off my intake. Not fun. I was always having to rev the engine just to keep it from stalling. But if you really want that effect and want some power out of it too, put some JWT C4 racing cams and ecu in and you are set. But they don't come cheap.
 

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I also think you won't like that driving around daily....my friend just did his R34 and his idle moves up and down but sounds awesome...but that was because of the Tomei cams he put in...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ya i no cams will give u that effect, but i was looken to see if there was a way w/o spendin to much money.
 

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P11GT said:
mine does that and to be honest, i HATE it. It sounds more like theres something wrong with the car, but ive also heard that powerful performance cars sometimes dont idle properly.

absolutely correct. So I suggest if you want a cheap way to get the effect, kink your vacuume lines on your intake. That's the only way you will get the effect w/o cams. And I can gurantee you will hate it after about 6hrs of driving your car like that.
 

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The reason they do it is down to cam overlap.

I'm sure someone can explain better than me but basically when the car is idling the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same for to long. This messes with the flow in the cylinder (things like reversion and so on) and causes a lumpy idle.

Performance cars have long opening durations on their cams which help fill the cylinders at higher revs and so at low revs they are prone to this kind of thing.

P11gt, it's probably down to your piper cams. The ways to get round it would be have less aggressive cams (where's the fun in that?) or increase the idle speed.

my litl g20, you could lower your idle but it would mean yours is sounding like it about to stall because it is about to stall. I wouldn't do it personally but it's up to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Originally posted by xenobait T
my litl g20, you could lower your idle but it would mean yours is sounding like it about to stall because it is about to stall. I wouldn't do it personally but it's up to you.

i went to lower my idal today and the thing is in the worst place. under a heck of a lot of wires and way down there. i am goin to try tomorrow if i think i can put it back right, otherwise oh well.
 

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xenobait said:
The ways to get round it would be have less aggressive cams (where's the fun in that?) or increase the idle speed.

That's actually what is reccomended by JWT. They suggest that you raise your idle to 1000rpm when you install cams.
 

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my litl g20 said:
i went to lower my idal today and the thing is in the worst place. under a heck of a lot of wires and way down there. i am goin to try tomorrow if i think i can put it back right, otherwise oh well.
Then you must not own a G20 or you don't know what the hell you are doing.

First thing is why in the hell would you want to lower your idle? The car will run like crap and the ECU will continuously be trying to adjust the idle because it's not set right.

Second thing is, the idle is not under any wires and is not way down under anywhere. Get a FSM, research SR20's over at www.SE-R.net or do something before working on your car.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
hmmm, i did do research. and i do have a fsm and a chiltons and this web site. today i finished up my head gaskets and valvue gaskets. i didnt spend a lot of time looken, so the first thing i saw that looked like the pic, i asumed it was my idal. guess i was wrong. i plan on readen more before i do anything though.

i think i need to stay w/ installing and wiring stereo's. and leave my engine along before i kill it or myself! (i hope no one replies sayen "worken on a engine is easy, just read about it first") for the record, i am not a idiot, i just do really stupid stuff:nervous:
 

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my litl g20 said:
hmmm, i did do research. and i do have a fsm and a chiltons and this web site.
Good to hear that! The idle screw is on the pasenger side of the engine somewhat above where the oil filter is. You should be able to access the screw without any interference. (Philips head)

Pretty much the opposite location to where the throttle body is.
 

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but don't you have to disconnect the TPS sensor first then adjust base idle??? then you go back and reconnect TPS and should be all good no? There are some other steps like warming up the car and revving it for some minutes with no load and stuff like that.....If you look on www.SE-R.net there is something on adjusting idle...or ask the guys on sr20deforums..
 

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TY423 said:
but don't you have to disconnect the TPS sensor first then adjust base idle??? then you go back and reconnect TPS and should be all good no? There are some other steps like warming up the car and revving it for some minutes with no load and stuff like that.....If you look on www.SE-R.net there is something on adjusting idle...or ask the guys on sr20deforums..
Yea, but since he has the FSM, it explains the pocess in detail how to adjust the base idle, etc.
 

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cam lope

driven alot of cars with it , it isnt much fun . worst car i ever drove was a 1979 jag XJ6 running a stroker 383 and a th400, very hot cam , thing was only happy from 2500-6800 , almost impossible to drive around town , coarse the car would die at lights if you nailed it just wrong , humilateign when your trying to dust a 5.0 to get on the interstate and the damn thing dies at the light . get it right (or brake torque it) tho you could smoke the tires and snap u joints all day. only racecars should have "cam lope" street cars need to run at a smooth consatant rpm , that crap is hard on the bottom end, motor mounts etc . espiclly as much as a street car idles (like traffic and stoplights) .
 

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Re: cam lope

stoneage_tech said:
only racecars should have "cam lope" street cars need to run at a smooth consatant rpm , that crap is hard on the bottom end, motor mounts etc . espiclly as much as a street car idles (like traffic and stoplights) .

This is why JWT devolped two different series of cams, the S (street) series, and C (competition) series. This is also why every one on the list buys the S3 cams. They are the best all around cam for the street; small loss in the bottom end and very nice gain in the top end. Plus you don't have to buy new valvesprings.
 
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