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Discussion Starter #1
Got my g20 less than a year ago, she immediately broke down with these 3 codes;
P0100 mass or volume air flow / A circuit
P0325 knock sensor / circuit bank / single sensor
P0505 Idle air control system
The mass air flow, knock sensor & Idle air control were all fixed plus the air meter boot was replaced. She drove enough to pass smog and get registered and just as quickly as before she started bogging out and threatening to stall, stalled once & check engine light is back on. It’s the same 3 codes. I’m at a loss, where I live no one wants to work on here & I am far from a mechanic. Any suggestions as to what’s going on with her might help however!
Thank you
 

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What year is your car?

A quick search pulled up this thread, where a mass airflow sensor (MAF) replacement cleared the P0100 and P0325 codes for someone (after they bought the correct MAF):


Definitely check wiring for corrosion, breaks, bad grounds, etc. before buying a new part as MAFs aren't cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What year is your car?

A quick search pulled up this thread, where a mass airflow sensor (MAF) replacement cleared the P0100 and P0325 codes for someone (after they bought the correct MAF):


Definitely check wiring for corrosion, breaks, bad grounds, etc. before buying a new part as MAFs aren't cheap.
My g20 is a 2002 and we replaced the maf and it threw the code again and started bogging out and threatening to stall, unfortunately she stalled once then died as soon as we got home. I’ll check the wiring but wouldn’t the mechanics or at least one of them tell me the wiring was bad when they were all working on it?
Thank you so much for your response I really need to get her going so I can take my dying dog to his favorite places before he passes?
 

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My g20 is a 2002 and we replaced the maf and it threw the code again and started bogging out and threatening to stall, unfortunately she stalled once then died as soon as we got home. I’ll check the wiring but wouldn’t the mechanics or at least one of them tell me the wiring was bad when they were all working on it?
Thank you so much for your response I really need to get her going so I can take my dying dog to his favorite places before he passes?

Depends on the mechanic. Also, the connectors for this stuff break, get loose, corode, etc over time.
 

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there could be a possibility that the MAF is bad and is creating a chain for the other codes check the ground on the negative cable make sure theres no rust mechanics only do the work that they are told to do and nothing else. did you take the car to the mechanic?might be that he forgot to hook something back other then the knock sensor with a good set of tools you can save your self tons of money by doing the work yourself, use your resources and if you have questions we can help. from the description i would say its between the maf and idle control the knock sensor will not make the car run any different just give you a check engine light.
 

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there could be a possibility that the MAF is bad and is creating a chain for the other codes check the ground on the negative cable make sure theres no rust mechanics only do the work that they are told to do and nothing else. did you take the car to the mechanic?might be that he forgot to hook something back other then the knock sensor with a good set of tools you can save your self tons of money by doing the work yourself, use your resources and if you have questions we can help. from the description i would say its between the maf and idle control the knock sensor will not make the car run any different just give you a check engine light.
I replaced the aic, maf & knock sensors as well the air meter boot a rotor, battery, full tune up, oil change plus some other parts over the year and various mechanics. Between what I’ve replaced & the guy who sold it to me did she’s just shy of a rebuilt engine, which is why this is so frustrating. He continues to try to come work on her but she just isn’t happy & continues to throw these codes. I don’t know if I have to replace them in order or all at once? If the fact the she was in the process of being worked on and left ‘open’ during the Thomas fires and all that soot from being parked hood open engine apart, I just don’t know what is going on. And to make matters worse I am female, blonde and very well known in my small town so the only 2 mechanics that worked on it or are willing 1 ripped me off and refused to do the work that the codes called for telling me they were saying something else was wrong basically patting my ass on the way out. The 2nd just ‘fixed’ the knock sensor literally less than a week before the check engine light said it was a problem again so I don’t know!!! Sorry for the ‘novella’
 

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Remove the coolant lines from the bottom of the throttle and connect them together or cap off. And you need an ecu. Coolant leaks into the iacv, shorts it and then shorts it in the ecu. Common problem. I suggest buying a known good ecu , if you can find 1, used auto parts, $35 scrap yard, between $50 and 150 on Ebay, here, or somewhere cheap with a warranty. Then take it to someone to put in, or do it yourself. Nissan fixed lots of stuff in the p11, then stiffed us with that intake, and idle controller. Or just open the ecu and repair the board yourself.
 

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I replaced the aic, maf & knock sensors as well the air meter boot a rotor, battery, full tune up, oil change plus some other parts over the year and various mechanics. Between what I’ve replaced & the guy who sold it to me did she’s just shy of a rebuilt engine, which is why this is so frustrating. He continues to try to come work on her but she just isn’t happy & continues to throw these codes. I don’t know if I have to replace them in order or all at once? If the fact the she was in the process of being worked on and left ‘open’ during the Thomas fires and all that soot from being parked hood open engine apart, I just don’t know what is going on. And to make matters worse I am female, blonde and very well known in my small town so the only 2 mechanics that worked on it or are willing 1 ripped me off and refused to do the work that the codes called for telling me they were saying something else was wrong basically patting my ass on the way out. The 2nd just ‘fixed’ the knock sensor literally less than a week before the check engine light said it was a problem again so I don’t know!!! Sorry for the ‘novella’
Remove the coolant lines from the bottom of the throttle and connect them together or cap off. And you need an ecu. Coolant leaks into the iacv, shorts it and then shorts it in the ecu. Common problem. I suggest buying a known good ecu , if you can find 1, used auto parts, $35 scrap yard, between $50 and 150 on Ebay, here, or somewhere cheap with a warranty. Then take it to someone to put in, or do it yourself. Nissan fixed lots of stuff in the p11, then stiffed us with that intake, and idle controller. Or just open the ecu and repair the board yourself.
And that’ll make her error those 3 codes again right after repairing them? Or could make her? I appreciate everyone being so helpful, thank you!
 

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Allegedly, it should take care of it and problems will cease. There is also a little adjusting screw on the bottom of the throttle , you may just need to play with that and get it set right. Sorry I can only help so much without the car being in front of me. If the ecu fried you will have may have ruined the new iacv. So ohm the iacv before installing a new ecu if that's the problem.


 

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Allegedly, it should take care of it and problems will cease. There is also a little adjusting screw on the bottom of the throttle , you may just need to play with that and get it set right. Sorry I can only help so much without the car being in front of me. If the ecu fried you will have may have ruined the new iacv. So ohm the iacv before installing a new ecu if that's the problem.


Can someone post a picture of what the engine/connections should look like, please? I just popped my hood and while I admit I know little to nothing here but I am trying hard to learn, the one thing I noticed off the bat is everything is wrapped in electrical tape and poorly at that. From the battery cables to the connection for the air meter boot (I think) but one part I was told was going to fail smog because it’s wrapped in electrical tape, well it passed and it’s still wrapped up so wtf? I’m sorry I am literally learning on this site and via my g20 so thanks for the help and patience
 

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ok first dont let those fools treat you like that get the knowledge to walk in there and demand the work needed by telling them exactly what needs to be done once the work is done ask for the old parts this way you know they did the work DONT take this bull shit line of OOOh i threw them away crap. Two you CAN do the work on this car they are really easy to work on google FSM(factory service manual) Factory Service Manuals - NICOclub this will give you all the info to this car. Three I think you already found the problem and know it but ill tell you anyway their should never be any tape holding,covering, or using it as a band aid, replace any part that has tape on it and you will get a better running car and dont be afraid to ask any question we are here to help.
 
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