If you want a meter to last your lifetime buy a Fluke brand meter. Even if you RUN over the meter, Fluke will replace it at the standard repar cost. They stand behind their products FOREVER. Best of all, it is NOT made in China. For basic use, you need one for AC and DC volts (house and car) and ohms (continuity). For more advance uses, you will want one with current also (amps). For advanced automotive use, they have a specialized automotive multimeter that has dwell and rpm functions. For the basic meter a Fluke 10 will work, about $75. Advanced, Fluke 23, about $200. And Automotive Fluke 88, about $350.A380Driver said:Hey thanks...what kind of multi-meter should I buy?
And i have the FSM here...but im not sure how you check the connectivity between the harness and the b on the knock sensor?
How do you disconnect the knock sensor? I have seen a lot of posts that seem to indicate there is a metal clip on the bolt that retains the sensor. I didn't see that, but I did see a metal ring around the connector. Does anybody have pictures that show how to separate this ring(If that's the right ring to take off)?A380Driver said:Per the FSM, I used a multimeter to check the connectivity in Ohms
between the "A" connector on the knock sensor and a ground.
None...so I had a bad knock sensor.
Yea a lot of people stumble at number 1 :-\dphilp said:Here's the easy way:
1. Unbolt sensor.
2. Pull cable up through the manifold from just behind the fuel rail.
3. Undo little metal clip in full view, rather than blind while it's still on the car.
4. Bolt it back on, if you want to test it on the car.
OMG, that took me a few hours...
557k ohms of resistance between ground and left terminal at around 20*Cmarkbuts3 said:It mentions to use a meter that can measure more than 10M ohms. I just checked my spare and it's around 15M ohms on the left terminal and direct continuity on the right terminal.
In a later FSM it says... Resistance: 500 - 620k ohms [at 20°C (68°F)]
I'm going to warm mine up a little and re-test it.