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Discussion Starter #1
I searched but to no avail.... I needed to know if i had to get these things pressed out, and back in. Im having the hardest time trying to get them out. I know there a little safety ring on it. I took that off, and now for the life of me, i cant beat it out.

So, how stupid am I, OR what am I doing wrong. First time encounter on doing these so go easy. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #2
did some more searchin, and i came up with somthing like a ball joint seperater....


where can i find one, and do i really need it to get them out?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
so do i need to take them somehwere.... is this somthing that i can rent from somwhere.... im cluless, pissed, and frustrated. wanna buy a cheap p10 ve that need right hand side suspension work hehe.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
already got a ball joint press from autozone... doesnt work. never get it for this car.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ok, so im trying to take the LCA off, and i cant get it off... all of the bolts under here are super duper tough to get off, and im wore the f out.

Which backside bolts need to come off? THere liek a plate looking thing with two bolts on it, and then one that looks like it holds the spring mechanism.

which of these do i need to try and pry off to get this LCA out?>
 

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Yes, you need to remove 5 of those bolts total, they are all 22mm and torqued to something silly. Get a breaker bar to help with those.


Here are the other three you need to take off.

After that, just pop the ball joint out from the hub and it should fall right out.
 

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as for taking out the old ball joints from the LCA, remove the circlip, position the ball joint vertically, have someone stand on the LCA and give it a few good raps with a hammer, SOLIDLY and it will pop out.

Putting them back in , at least on Marks car, I had to remove the rubber boot and then tool a large socket to use as a drift and pressed it in with a hammer ;) you gotta support the LCA on the outer edges to do this.
 

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You can use the big C-clamp ball joint press from AZ, but you need to cobble together some adapter rings. I took a 2"X 2" iron pipe nipple, squeezed it a little in a vise so it would fit in the lower control arm, which works well in place of the rings supplied in the kit for removing the old ball joint. I use a 3/4" drive socket with the C-clamp for pressing the new one in. You have to be very careful that you don't screw up the threads of the new ball joint or you won't be able to snug up the castle bolt and torque it back on to the knuckle. You should take care to have the cotter pin hole pointed in the right direction to make it easier to put it on (and take off the next time).

I have done this several times with the standard replacement ball joint from AZ. I had probs the last time with the upgrade Duralast ball joint as the boot (wired on) stuck out far enough that it interfered with putting the snap ring back on (I couldn't get the snap ring over the boot without tearing up the boot). Make sure the snap ring will fit easily over the boot on your replacement.

I have found that at least half of the time the ball joint boot is torn when I R/R axles, so I have been replacing them while I have it apart for the axle job.
 

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BTW, I think it is NUTZ to take off the whole LCA just to replace the lower ball joint. Get creative and make the C-clamp ball joint press work (I just bought my own kit from Harbor Freight for like 20 bucks). You get the right setup and replacing the ball joint takes like 30 min per side max.
 

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I just followed Mark's link above. I have replaced a bunch of these using the AZ press with the mods noted. I got the car realigned several times after this, and I can tell you if you do it right, you don't need a realignment. REPLACING the whole LCA is REALLY NUTZ. That's like taking a 30 min job with $20 in parts and spending $150-$200 and killing a long afternoon.
 

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So, $180+ and 20 min (those in the SW of US and no corrosion) or $27. and maybe 30 min. for just the ball joint. You gotta realign it if you replace the whole LCA??
 

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You can buy a used LCA from a junkyard for $75 or so. Removing the ball joint from the hub would be the most annoying part of the process given a lot of rust. All it takes is a big impact to get the other bolts off.

You cant realign front camber, and I doubt the LCA would affect toe much. Even if it did, checking your front toe is easy.

I see your point, but I think it's more difficult (mechanic skills wise) to press out a ball joint than it is to swap a LCA.


- Greg -
 

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I got totally hung up the last time by a broken cotter pin facing the wrong way on the ball joint. Ended up drilling it out, but everything was at the wrong angle. Wasted a lot of time, total PITA. That would be the same problem with either approach. I've got a wreck, maybe I'll take off the LCA's and set them up with new ball joints for the next time I need one. I've never tried your approach, but will (as it won't cost any more). Seems like it should be easier using the ball joint press on the LCA off the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
finally got them in... boy was it hard to get that stuff back together.... only leads me to believe that somthing under there is bent... i havent driven it yet, but ill update after i take it for a spin here in a little while.
 

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I also recently tried removing the LCA. I started with the lower ball joint nut, but there was not enough space above it to remove the nut. I tried a ball joint separator, but it was too thick to fit in the space above the ball joint's bolt potion.
I tried hitting the knuckle with a mini-sledge many, many times, trying the get the bolt to pop loose from the taper in the knuckle, but it did not work.
I finally had luck by using one of these. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html The part that goes on the bolt of the ball joint is thin enough to fit on top of the ball joint nut which I had unscrewed so that it was just about flush with the tip of the bolt.
For the LCA bolts, is a 3/4 inch breaker bar necessary (versus a 1/2" breaker bar)? I tried with just a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar, but gave up after I could not get the first one to loosen. It was hard to get enough leverage lying on ground.
 
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