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Pining for "DMSentra"
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I asked my brother to set the timing up on our daughter's 95 G since he's got a shop and all. He went through the procedure in his Mitchell manual, which matches what is posted on G.net, and found out the marks weren't anywhere near the timing light marks. As we were due to pick up the car he put the dist. back to as close to where it was as he could. We thought maybe the outer ring on the balancer had spun, as Chevy's are somewhat known for that too. I have the SR20 out of my donor car sitting in the my shop, and today I pulled the center bolt out and looked at the keyway to timing marks reference. 0 degrees seemed to line up with the key. Looking at the 95 they were nowhere near the same. Pulled the 95 balancer off and shot a picture of the two. Notice the 0 degree mark at the bottom of the balancer ring and compare the keyways.



I put the 92 balancer in and found the timing to be at 13-14 degrees and then bumped it to 19 degrees.
So, summarizing this post, it may be a good idea to use a dial indicator in the #1 spark plug hole to confirm Top Dead Center is actually 0 degrees on the balancer. Especially if you feel your car isn't running quite right, before or after a tune. :cruisin:

Oh, forgot to mention... Looking at the bad balancer there is a faint crack line running all around the ring where the rubber meets, as if that is the point where the bond has released. The one from the 92 I put on didn't have any sign of that crack.
 

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I'm pretty sure I'm experiencing this currently, as I replace my distributor on my 93.5. I got the car in timing mode, followed all the procedures, and then was baffled when I couldn't see any of the timing marks, which I had already gone in and marked with whiteout to make sure they were clear. I maneuvered my timing light up under the front wheel well, and sure enough the marks are steady, but about 30 degrees counter clockwise from where they should be....I guess maybe someone swapped a harmonic balancer on it at some point??

I'm now faced with the question about what to do? I guess, find TDC cylinder 1, mark the pulley myself and then try to measure it with a gotdamn protractor or something. WHY nissan? WHY?
 

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I had one on my turbo 99' do this 3-4 years ago. It's a good way to blow a turbo car up if you are setting the timing and not paying attention where the distributor is supposed to be clocked. The very first one that I encountered when I was younger was on a Ford 5.0 and it actually came loose and banged around until I shut it down.
 

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Common issue with Subaru's too. Rubber & glue + heat = will deteriorate overtime, which is why I prefer one piece crank pulleys. The reason they use rubber is to reduce noise/vibrations that are sent to the accessories, or vise versa. The downside is, most one piece pulleys are super light weight, while it's not a problem for 8 counterweight SR20's, for us 4cw guys (Roller Rockers in 2000+, VE's) the light pulleys tend to cause negative effects.

There is always fluid dampers, but you can buy 3-4 OEM pulleys for the price of one of those...
 
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