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So I just bought my 1st G20 (cheeeep). '91 5 speed.... Nice car, it has the 5th gear pop-out problem but we'll fix later....

Anyway when I start the car when its cold the oil light stays on for about 10-15 seconds depending on temperature. Now, when I 1st saw this is scared the crap out of me. Oil light + loud engine noises = bad, right? Well the funny thing is after about 15 seconds it all just goes away. Engine sounds normal and no oil light. But something is seriously wrong here. Also, when I rev the engine high. Say around 4K - 5K it knocks. It sounds like valve train but I'm not positive.

So here is what I assume and if anyone has any things to check, please let me know.
I assume the car has a low-oil pressure issue. Does anyone know where I can install a test guage?? Has anyone replaced the oil pump in these cars? Is it a week-point for this engine? Are the oil galleys suceptable to clogs?

I saw on some other posts that a dented oil pan can cause pick-up problems. The pan does have a dent but it doesn't seem large enough to do whats happenening. However this seems like a good place to start so I'll repace the pan and gasket. Anyother suggestions while I'm working in this region of the car??

Thanks,
Pawl
 

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pawlex said:
I saw on some other posts that a dented oil pan can cause pick-up problems. The pan does have a dent but it doesn't seem large enough to do whats happenening. However this seems like a good place to start so I'll repace the pan and gasket. Anyother suggestions while I'm working in this region of the car??

Thanks,
Pawl
That is probably your problem. No need to replace it. Just pop it off and bang it out the dent with a rubber malet, scrape the rtv off, put new rtv on and call it a day.

Edit: Just read the knocking part. While you have the pan off you should pop off the upper oil pan and check out the rod bearings. It cant hurt.

Mike
 

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Do you know if it's long since the oil was replaced? I'd say bang out the oil-pan dent, and before you go off buying any expensive parts, get her a new oil and oil filter. I think you always should do oil, filter, air filter, plugs, fuel filter and maybe plug cables, as the first thing, when you buy a used car. Give her a tune-up. Maybe the oil is too old?
 

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Prince of Joy
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I think the '91 has the little oiler tubes in the head too. They may be clogged with gunk. Pop the VC and either replace the tubes with the larger ones from later years or carefully drill out the oiling holes.

It's a good idea to pop the VC anyway just to see how bad the oil gunk situation is.


- Greg -
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Dulle said:
Do you know if it's long since the oil was replaced? I'd say bang out the oil-pan dent, and before you go off buying any expensive parts, get her a new oil and oil filter. I think you always should do oil, filter, air filter, plugs, fuel filter and maybe plug cables, as the first thing, when you buy a used car. Give her a tune-up. Maybe the oil is too old?
I did a full tune-up yesterday and it still showed signs of low pressure.
 

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I would drop the pan, clean it out, and fix the dent. You need to inspect the oil pick up while you have the pan off. They can become blocked with RTV, old gaskets, gunk, etc. This restricts flow which can cause the exact symtoms you describe.
 

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Pizdeet kak Trotsky
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It would have to be a totally cock filter not to have that kinda valve ........ Even Frams have em :beard:

Try some serious de-glooping of the engine....... After that its a new timing cover :-\
 

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Discussion Starter #11
CarloSR said:
What oil filter are you using ?
I have a WIX filter on there now (all that was available late on sunday evening).

When I got the car its engine oil resembled black honey so I figured I'd change the oil 1st thing. I'm going to drop the pan, inspect the pickup, clean everything up etc.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

~Pawl
 

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Pizdeet kak Trotsky
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Get it good & hot 1st then let the oil plug go ......... Mind ya fingers...... Get a loda old cock oil & filters & flush it thro a couple O' times....... Wiv cheap filters too say ever 7 days ....

Then decent oil, OEM filter & a new O ring on the sump..... I spose a take to bits & cleant out both ends won't hurt..... Failing that a new timing cover ;)
 

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Pizdeet kak Trotsky
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Don't ask me bout part #'s as I'm using €uro drawings & theys bound to be different

As far as the cover/oil pump assy goes, Nissan Europe offer a complete unit & no replaceable spares, this may be different on your version ...... But I doubt it...... 3rd party spares may be available, could look in to that ......... Either way a good flushing out is still in order....... You could swap out the oil pressure sender too (Or at least remove it & give it a clean) Just a passing thought
 

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According to my FAST(Infiniti version) they sell it as a complete front cover kit and as individual rebuild parts. I don’t know how to cut and paste the diagram yet.. sorry!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sorry J..M I guess I didn't understand what you were saying. I'll give that a try once I have the pan back on.

I also plan on removing the valve cover tonight and cleaning the top end lubrication tubes. Hopefully they're gummed up and thats my problem.

I'm doing all this w/o a repair manual (just bought a factory manual online and hasn't arrived yet) so if any of you with manuals on CD can send me diagrams that would be a lot of help.

~Pawl
 

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pawlex said:
Anyway when I start the car when its cold the oil light stays on for about 10-15 seconds depending on temperature.

Also, when I rev the engine high. Say around 4K - 5K it knocks.Pawl
You know I just re-read your original post and this really sounds like (pardon the pun) worn main or rod bearings. It's really unusual for an oil pump to wear out to the point that the oil pressure will not build fast enough on start up, and run out of pressure at higher RPM. Usually a worn oil pump will not make enough pressure at low RPM, and improves at higher RPM. You seem to have the reverse of this, which is more in line with a diagnosis of worn bearings. Excessive clearances in your bearings will do all of these symptoms, plus you said it knocks at higher RPM.
Certainly you can go ahead with your current plan, but I think the end result will not be changed.
 
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