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Discussion Starter #1
Is their any way to get the maf sensor out of the way and to fool it into thinking everything is normal? Cause that maf really restricts the air going into the intake manifold.
 

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miamig20 said:
Is their any way to get the maf sensor out of the way and to fool it into thinking everything is normal? Cause that maf really restricts the air going into the intake manifold.

Nope, that isn't possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
but how much constant air does the maf use cant we like fake an intake by blowing air at it with a mini fan or something like that?
 

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It is air flow dependant. The ecu calculates the amount of fuel injected depending on the airflow (and other values), you can't simulate that with a fan.
 

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Yep, as above....

The MAF works by keeping a small heating element at a constant temperature. The more air flowing, the more voltage is needed to keep it hot and it's also dependant on air temperature too...lots of cold air needs high voltage and idling with warm air needs low voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
oh ok I get it now. do the cai use a less restrictive maf adaptor or does it use the same one?
 

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no get the new greddy e-manage and you don't need a maf at all.

Airflow Output Map - Previously labeled “Airflow Adjustment Map” is now “Airflow Output Map”. This can now used to eliminate the factory airflow meter. This is done by directly inputting voltage or frequency in to this map.
 

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Coolant Temp Correction Map (Must be Selected with Knock Signal 1) - When the ECU Coolant Temp Calibration does not match the e-manage’s tuning, this map is used to tune the system at various temperature ranges.
Intake Air Temp Correction Map (Must be Selected with Knock Signal 2) - When the ECU Intake Air Temp Calibration does not match the e-manage’s tuning, this map is used to tune the system at various temperature ranges. This map is also be used when eliminating the airflow
 

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But you NEED a MAP sensor. then you have to work out what MAF voltages you would get at different MAP readings and program them in.

I assume you have to work it out for a set temperature and the Emanage adjusts it depending on the air temp it reads.

Sounds like lots of fun setting it up :x
 

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If you are converting from MAF to MAP you will need a good chunk of dyno time to set it up.

Mike
 

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It's honestly not worth the trouble. Even with a 175-200whp fully done up n/a motor, it's maybe a few hp at best.

If you're super worried about it, then just run a JWT ECU with a maxima/pathfinder MAF.
 

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Mark is right, you would need a MAP if you were to get rid of your MAF. And I also concur with Justin, unless you're pushing some higher turbo numbers (i'd say 300hp) the MAP setup is more work than it's worth. It requires a lot of time and customizing. As Mike mentioned, this chunk of dyno time can go anywhere from an absolute minimum (and this is like if you hit everything dead on) 3-4 hours, all the way up to 1.5-2 weeks.


But a MAP sensor is definately a lot healthier/convenient.


btw Mark, I'm feelin the new sig ;)
 

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The other downside to a MAP is more dyno time after each modification to the engine/intake/exhaust.

Mike
 
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