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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I regrounded my MAF a few months ago. I cut the white wire going to the MAF and took the wire going to the MAF side and ran it directly to the battery's negative terminal. I left the other end of the white wire unconnected.

I have had a weird rough idle problem that leads to an occasional misfire at idle.

After not being able to solve this problem for the longest (putting new o-rings on injectors made the hard starting problem dissapear but seemed to make this worse) I put the white wire back together and left the other end of the white wire disconnected. I am confident that the white wire to the MAF was grounded correctly though.

The car seems to run ok NOW, but the misfire is elusive in that other things I have done seem to cause it to go away for a while.

I have heard that the other end of the white wire goes back to the ECU and serves as a ground reference.


Could not connecting the other end of the white wire have caused this?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
cool, well the dropping idle problem is back again so it wasn't that...but ill do it right this time just in case
 

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man, we are having the same problems. My G has been terrible. I have 1/4 tank of gas left and have been 140 miles. It is running very rich and the idle is terrible. I am about ready to take a baseball bat to the engine. Serious tho, I am looking for another car. I give up!
 

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Man, I have done everything. A full tune up. I have had it to 3 mechanics (one of which was the dealership) and they acknowledge something is wrong with the car, but can not figure it out. Everything checks out on the consult, but to listen to the engine idle, it sounds like dog shit. My new muffler tip is black too. It really sucks. You would think between 3 mechanics it would be sorted, but right now its worse. There is now an annoying ticking sound coming from the cluster or column. I cant determine which. It gets "quicker" with speed, so my guess is my tach is on the way out.
 

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pauley01 said:
Man, I have done everything. A full tune up. I have had it to 3 mechanics (one of which was the dealership) and they acknowledge something is wrong with the car, but can not figure it out. Everything checks out on the consult, but to listen to the engine idle, it sounds like dog shit. My new muffler tip is black too. It really sucks. You would think between 3 mechanics it would be sorted, but right now its worse. There is now an annoying ticking sound coming from the cluster or column. I cant determine which. It gets "quicker" with speed, so my guess is my tach is on the way out.

My old car sounded as if a pencil was rolling on the dash...I think it was the tach or speedo cable...never changed it though because someone rear ended me and it was totalled. But the good news is that I ended up with the G.

Let me know if you find anything out. My car occassionally gets crappy gas mileage and I've checked or done the usual.
 

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Yes, same here... I did not cut the wires, I just spliced the wire, added a wire and grounded it to the intake manifold. I dont think u should ground it to the battery direct.
 

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ERIKbronx said:
Yes, same here... I did not cut the wires, I just spliced the wire, added a wire and grounded it to the intake manifold. I dont think u should ground it to the battery direct.
I grounded direct to the battery. Doing it to the intake manifold didn't lower the voltage difference much, whereas to the battery dropped it to 0.

http://www.g20.net/forum/showpost.php?p=560027&postcount=44
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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markbuts3 said:
No idea on gauge, too thick but the only stuff I had to hand. It's multi strand...

Mark,
Those pics aren't coming up in your link. I'd like to get a visual on where you put that MAF ground wire.

EJ
 

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ej_up_late said:
Mark,
Those pics aren't coming up in your link. I'd like to get a visual on where you put that MAF ground wire.

EJ
Seems my site (well my host, Dreamhost) is playing up, try again later...

Here's one pic, yea the solder is messy, I explained why in the other thread ;)
 

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unstable current to the sensors affects the way they read, and send information. the maf is one of the sensors involved with calculating your air/fuel mixture. If it gets shite current then your a/f ratio will bounce around with it, depending on the mood of the crappy connections. re-grounding fixes the crappy connection, and all the unstable current that comes along with crap connections. better idle, better mileage, and throttle response are the main benefits.



just did mine 5 min ago seemed to smooth out the idle quite a bit, haven't taken it for a spin yet. I wonder why the guides don't seem to include checking resistance? it seemed to be a more sensitive indication of poor connectivity than voltage draw. i went from 14ohms to 0 when tested from the middle wire to battery. tested voltage afterwards and it was around .003-.004. Never checked voltage prior to the re ground unfortunately as I hadn't found the other guides til after but the car is a 92 so i'm sure it needed it. anyway, seems like something everyone should be doing with a car 10+ years old, thanks to all who did the footwork on this mod!
 

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I did mine a few days ago and dropped the voltage from 18mV to 1mV.
I'll be able to tell in a few weeks if it affected gas mileage. The car was running perfectly smooth beforehand, so I haven't noticed much change.
 
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