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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently purchased a manual 2000 g20t with 100,000 miles. Not sure when the last time the transmission fluid was changed, if ever.

Sometimes when I first start it up, it's difficult to get it into reverse. Takes 30 seconds or so of playing with the shifter, allowing the car to warm up before I can get it into reverse.

Also, sometimes when shifting into second gear, I shift, but then feel a little notch. When I hit that notch, I can pull it a little harder and it will move about another inch to really get it into second. It's like a two-stage shift. I don't always feel that notch though. Sometimes it goes right in smoothly. Thoughts?

I'm on the original clutch too, but it's not very high - surprisingly.

I granny shift this thing and I assume the 37 year old woman who had it before me did as well.

Thanks!
 

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Hit the weight room.

Could be shifter bushings, they are cheap and easy to install. Get the ES shifter bushings, there is a thread with the part numbers. I got mine from Amazon. You might as well change all fluids in that car and do a tune up also.
 

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Does it shift smoothly with the engine off? Does pumping the clutch make it shift easier with the car running?

I second swapping out the fluid. I put in thicker then recommended weight oil and had difficulty shifting when cold. But was perfect after warming up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hit the weight room.
I don't like to force it into gear. I'm not ready to buy a new transmission.

Could be shifter bushings, they are cheap and easy to install. Get the ES shifter bushings, there is a thread with the part numbers. I got mine from Amazon. You might as well change all fluids in that car and do a tune up also.
I could try shifter bushings, but if I'm going to do that, I would install a short shifter as well.

What is recommended for a tune up at 100k? plugs, wires, trans fluid, valve adjustment, ?
 

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Anyone want to chime in on the 100k or closest interval service?

I would do, oil and filter, spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, tranny fluid and possibly coolant, air filter. You can even do the fuel filter.
 

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reverse difficulty could be some bad motor mounts. sometimes i have had to put my p10 in 1st and have it role forward a quarter inch before i could get it into reverse. i installed loco mounts and the shifts were like butter in the p10. its probably not the problem if its easier once it warms up, and due to cost and time i would do what others mentioned first.
 

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reverse difficulty could be some bad motor mounts. sometimes i have had to put my p10 in 1st and have it role forward a quarter inch before i could get it into reverse. i installed loco mounts and the shifts were like butter in the p10. its probably not the problem if its easier once it warms up, and due to cost and time i would do what others mentioned first.
I agree, and this was one of the first things that came to my mind too. After replacing 3/4 bad mounts on my P11, the shifts were much smoother, especially putting the car into gear from a dead stop. Check all 4 of your mounts first, as well as your shifter bushing. Should take you maybe 5 minutes tops.

Amsoil GL4 all day long for daily driving. It has all of the right additives to ensure you don't burn out any synchros. It is the OE spec replacement fluid. If you're not racing your car, heavier weight gear oil isn't necessary and feels like complete garbage in colder months.
 

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True, they are searchable. At least if you title them correctly, as you did.

But sponsor chat is where all the cool kids hang out... ;)
 
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