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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys..took car to a smog station that says they have manuals on all cars to make sure they do a correct job and well...look for yourself..Sorry for the bad quality, but they were taken with my phone...I believe I set my timing to 16 or 17 BUT since I had my IACV replaced with a new one..and there was no build up inside...that raised my idle a little...possibly putting the 16 or 17 idle I set it at to about 19...


In this pic. you can see how far back it is retarded!! I took it for a drive shortly after and felt huge hesitation and a little studdering...so I was like what the hell...? I went back and said now it hesitates ALOT and studders and he said all he did was take it back 4 degreees because I was at 19...I told him the car never did that before it was advanced..he tried to tell me maybe the previous owner advanced it to hide the studder..I said..Noooooo...I advanced the timing myself and it was fine before when it was at 15...Here is another picture...


Right in front of the red lines you can see black lines..this is where my distributor was right before I took it to the mechanic..so I'm guessing I possibly was at 19...This morning I warmed up the car..and moved the distributor to about the middle...so the hesitation in lower rpms is gone and no studder..but it feels slow in higher rpms..I'm thinking since I've been driving with it advance to a little more than stock for so long that I got used to is ;)
 

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did you use a timing light? because the position of the distributor might be a little different from car to car...

and raising the idle shouldn't change the timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No, no timing light yet....I just moved it to the middle, because I read on here that that should roughly be about 15 degrees..from my understanding...if you set the timing at 15 degrees with the TPS disconnected and at 750+-50...and your idle with the TPS connected is higher than the higher revs will make your timing be slightly higher...I might move it a tad bit higher to get more response out of it...also, considering when the distributor was set where those black lines are there was no knocking or hesitation....so I might just move it back to those lines...to get the performance I was used to before they MESSED it up!!! They told me to go back today and have them reset it back to how it was...but I already have the black lines...oh..I was in the waiting room and I don't believe I heard them rev 3 TIMES!!! if anything they just disconnected the TPS and I doubt they even checked the idle...oh...speaking of idle..any ideas on loosening the idle screw without stripping it? I actually thought a big flat head would be better..because one of the grooves where you would put the flat head goes down deeper than the other groove...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Oh..and does anyone know what RPM mark the line before the 1000 RPM mark is? Some stupid mechanic at infiniti told me it is 900, but it has a pretty big space in the middle..so I doubt it..and where is my idle supposed to sit? Thanks again!!!
 

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David,
You are really wasting a lot of effort. Go buy an inexpensive timing light and set the timing per the factory instructions. If you want to set it back to 19 degrees that's fine, but do it properly with a timing light and factory instructions. You will have to run premium gas.
Tachometers on cars are not that accurate at low RPM, but in general your Infiniti mechanic is correct, the mark is something like 800-900 RRM.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, a nissan tech. told me that white line before the 1000 rpm mark is 800 and an Infiniti tech told me 900! I'm thinking it's 800...yeah I know I really need to go buy one...I just hated the hesitation and studdering so I wanted to set it higher right away...it felt like I gave it gas and it barely wanted to go..and the rpms took forever to rise...right now the car feels a little more responsive, but still a little slow...I know that if I move my distributor to the black line I'll be fine, because I have pretty much always had it there with no hesitation or knocking...but I might go buy a timing light a little later...to make sure I'm where I say I am...I think I'm going to tighten my throttle cable and maybe bump up my timing a little more this weekend or early next week..as far as my idle screw question..does anyone have any suggestions?? Big flat head..or big philips screwdriver? Personally I think a flat head would be better because of the big groove I mentioned earlier.

Thanks guys!!
 

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David I think you sort of have the right ideal with the position of the distributor. Sort of as most cars a kind of different. But once you get your timing light you can score / mark the distributor position on the bracket when your car is set at 15 degrees. It will still be fairly rough but in a pinch the score / mark can be a life saver... However in in a pinch try to set the timing as close to how the FSM states...

If you get a UR crank pulley it will bump your idle by 50 rmp so it will be closer to the 1000 rpm line - FYI.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks man!! Yeah, I plan on buying a timing light with a digital tach. display! I think on the ones with a digital display it also has a knob on it with a few degrees on it..? What is that for? I thought it was to set timing, but I have no clue, because you would still need to move the distributor...still waiting on an idea for the idle screw.

Thanks again!!
 

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You can get cheap digital ones now that have dial back settings and rpm readouts on them. They go for under $30 at the discount tool places.

Buy two just in case ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wow..that is cheap..the ones at autozone go for $50-$60 I think...but what is the dial used for? That's what I have no clue on....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
haha..I do now..thanks to Mark! I went to autozone..(I have a friend who works there) and they have a timing light with digital tach. and DIGITAL ADVANCE!! for $100.00..more than what I wanted to spend, but he is giving me his employee discount ;) :cheese:
 
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