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Discussion Starter #1
:zoinks:
Hi guys. If you remember my last thread about my engine hesitation, ( http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=56800&page=1 ) you'll remember that my whole journey to find a solution began after the CEL came on with P0300. I changed all the stuff I mentioned in the prev. thread (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, dizzy, O2, gas filter, air filter, egr, pcv, and all the cleaning: tb, injectors, egr, etc). The hesitation has subsided for the most part (can't say for sure that it's gone), but hard acceleration in 2nd and 3rd still causes intermittent stuttering :baffled:

Today I checked for codes again, and P0300 (multiple intermittent misfires) came back! GEEZ! Everything listed above has been replaced in the past 2-3 months, so what could it be? I have NGK G-Power (plats) BKR6EGP, which aren't OEM, would that be a problem? I didn't think it would, but I could be wrong... Has anyone used them before?
 

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have you reground your MAF? check the knock sensor or TPS? I had a similar problem on my g20...stumbling at hwy speeds. how did you clean your injectors? I ask because that was the culprit, all i did was add fuel injector cleaner. Also, on my 91 se-r, i did have a stumbling issue as well, but it just subsided...i dont recall weather or not i did a maf reground which solved the problem or not. Then something similar happened again with my se-r, but only under acceleration, which turned out to be bad spark plug wires...replaced those and all is well...for now.
 

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i would not do that pour in tank stuff its just a waste of money. i would do the 3m canned stuff that goes straight into the fuel rail it works better.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for the replies guys! I had the maf cleaned, but not regrounded. Does regrounding usually take care of stumbling problems? I had mechanics check out the car and they cleaned a bunch of stuff (intake, tb, maf, etc.) but I dunno about the knock sensor or tps. Are those things I can do myself easily/quickly (Canadian winters mean working outside on the car is tough...)? As for the injectors, I took the car to the shop to have them flushed (the in-engine flushing). So you guys don't think it's the non-oem plugs huh (I hope they aren't the problem either, hehe)?
 

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Your MAF is probably at fault. Disconnect it and remove it from the car, then spray the sensor (the little silver wires) with a GOOD brake cleaner. Make Sure it is dry before you plug it in! The hot wire element gets contaminated with crap in the air even though you have an air filter, and can not read properly. The ECM heats up the wire and the incoming air cools it down, the more voltage required to heat the wire is then translated into the MAF reading. If the wire is "wearing a coat" the signal is going to be weak, giving you the bogging and missfire--Asthma attack! This is a quick fix, but if the hot wire is damaged, you will need a replacement. Good luck
 

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brake cleaner followed up by contact cleaner. my shoppe teacher told me to scrape mine with a screw driver and i was like "are you fucking nuts?" but yea if the wires not broke then brake cleaner and contact cleaner should do it.
 

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Or...you could just go pay $50 to a dealer and have them diagnose the problem for you..instead of replacing every little thing in your engine bay
 

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or do it for free at auto zone theyll give you the code you just have to look it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey, thanks for the replies, you guys are great :) I'll try cleaning the MAF sensor with the brake cleaner like you suggested (btw, thanks for explaining how the MAF works!). How much does a GOOD brake cleaner cost? I have a friend who bought a $4 (CAD) can but doesn't really know if it's good or bad. And what do you mean by contact cleaner? Do I just go to a automotive store and ask for contact cleaner and they'll know (sorry if it's a dumb question, hehe)? I hope the MAF isn't hard to remove!
 

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CH0DEmobile
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i'd be wary of spraying brake cleaner on a MAF, there are spray products made especially for cleaning them. are you getting a knock sensor code? that can definitely cause stumbling, but not an idle misfire.
 

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gomd3 said:
I remember someone having a catalytic converter with a bolt in it.... it happened after he replaced the header, he drove around with it and heard it rattling, finally took the cat out and there was a bolt in there....
they have MAF cleaner at kragens: CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Nope, I am not getting the knock sensor code, so no luck there... As for the MAF cleaner spray, I will see if we have stores here that sell them for a reasonable price =) Thanks for the heads up!
 

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bhowle said:
i'd be wary of spraying brake cleaner on a MAF, there are spray products made especially for cleaning them. are you getting a knock sensor code? that can definitely cause stumbling, but not an idle misfire.
i had the knock sensor code when i brought it to autozone, but it only idles rough, theres no stumbling during normal driving or acceleration. could the knock sensor still be he problem?
 

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CH0DEmobile
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brammes said:
i had the knock sensor code when i brought it to autozone, but it only idles rough, theres no stumbling during normal driving or acceleration. could the knock sensor still be he problem?
ehh, rough idling could be any number of things. mine idles better, but still not steady after the knock sensor change. i'd start by checking your motor mounts, worn out ones can easily cause excessive vibration.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
This evening I was making a left out of a plaza (with cars coming) so I had to step on the gas hard to merge nicely. I was in first gear while doing this, and it revved as you would expect in such a situation, but all of a sudden it just 'choked' and dropped down to between 1-2K rpm and just stayed in that range as I kept the accelerator down (since the cars behind me were fast approaching); you could feel the car fighting/struggling to do as my foot was telling it to do, and this lasted a good 5 seconds at least! I thought the engine was gonna die on me right there (I was ready to turn on my hazards), but finally it kicked back in and revved like normal all the way home. It was scary, and I am sure it was related to whatever is still wrong with my car... anyone have a similar experience and/or know what this is?
 

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You said your car is a 2000? I've seen this problem on a 1999 g20 with the mechanical egr but not one with the electronic one... check your egr hoses for burn holes. also what plugs are you using? hopefully not bosch :X
 
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