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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
sup everyone.

just traded my b series honda for a Avenir swapped p10. ive been lurking the forums for about 2 days now, signed up yesterday. i can finally post. :)

anyway, i have alot of general car knowledge and alot of knowledge as far as imports/forced induction/ fwd etc. hopefully i can exchange that for some p10 knowledge.

nissans are brand new to me, but the platform(fwd turbo four cylinders), im pretty familiar with.


the car i own needs alot of work as far as the "details". it runs fairly well, actually it scares the crap out of me(15psi), however there are a FEW(ALOT ACTUALLY), problems that id like to figure out and also alot of questions about the g20/sr20 that id like to ask.

the struts are completely toast, is there anyone that makes a good coil over or spring/strut set up?

the turning radius is fin horrible and it squeaks at full lock, is that normal?

this problem here ive had 3 times since i got the car, basically, after getting on the gas real hard through a few gears, after i let off, the throttle does nothing. i have to jiggle some wires around and it fixes itself..im pretty sure its the wiring for either the tps or maf, but i could be wrong.

where IS the tps on this motor?! i didnt see it anywhere on the throttle body.

there is a hose, about 3/4" in diameter. one end is connected to something on the bottom of the intake manifold on the driver side, the other end is connected to nothing. there is a nipple(breather?) on the valve cover that doesnt have anything on it, i thought the hose might go there, so i tried it, but the car smoked(white) excessively.

also! the car WILL NOT idle on its own. the bov is not reciculated to the maf, so i figured it was just running too rich at idle? whats the deal here?

my BIGGEST PROBLEM is that the temp gauge BARELY reads and sometimes doesnt read at all. is this common with this swap? could it be wiring? thermostat?


i havent even had the car for 24 hours and ive found these problems so, someone help me bang em out so i can get to jdming this bitch out!

when i go to buy parts, like say a clutch, car i just get one for ANY sr20det, or does it have to be the avenir specifically?

what about a valve cover gasket?

oil pan gasket?

axles?

sensors?



this is all i can think of right now and im sure all you guys can handle lol.

i appreciate the help ALOT. thanks in advance! :teeth:
 

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Shocks/springs depends on what you want out of the car. So the tps sensor is there on the throttle body, gotta look closer. Should be sitting on the firewall side of the tb. I'd check your maf wiring for your hesitation. Recirc the BOV and that'll fix your idling (assuming that's the problem) Either that or check your settings on your management system (SAFC,Emanage, etc) you should be able to fool the computer into thinking it's recirc. Forget how though. Axles are for a g20, you use the g20 transmission when you swap a det in, so the axles remain the same. Basically, the majority of the parts for your avenir can be sourced through the various sr20de's produced. I hope this gets you started at the least, my apologies though, it is 3:42 in the morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sco0terzsl said:
Shocks/springs depends on what you want out of the car. So the tps sensor is there on the throttle body, gotta look closer. Should be sitting on the firewall side of the tb. I'd check your maf wiring for your hesitation. Recirc the BOV and that'll fix your idling (assuming that's the problem) Either that or check your settings on your management system (SAFC,Emanage, etc) you should be able to fool the computer into thinking it's recirc. Forget how though. Axles are for a g20, you use the g20 transmission when you swap a det in, so the axles remain the same. Basically, the majority of the parts for your avenir can be sourced through the various sr20de's produced. I hope this gets you started at the least, my apologies though, it is 3:42 in the morning.

its actually running on the stock jdm ecu. it sucks that there arent any chippable ecu's so you can use free tuning software like with hondas.

sooo, i guess in the future its going to be a safc, although i hate them because of the lack of ignition timing control.


thanks for the help.


still need more questions answered though. i need to figure out wtf that hose is for.

up for the night.
 

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Spooled.... It depends on how your swap was done but typically when swapping to the SR20DET people retain the SR20DE engine wiring harness, and all of the SR20DE Sensors.

You buy the clutch axles brakes start alternator almost anything you can think of FOR YOUR CAR this way no JDM parts to get.

Post a picture of the questionable hose and someone will help you identify it. DON'T plug it into the valve cover if it makes the car smoke WHITE thats no good.

Chris
 

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uhh. suspension...theres tein s-techs, intrax, eibach, as far as springs..coilover springs would be ground controls...coilovers i wouldnt really know haha. and struts/shocks tokico, KYB, and most tuner companies that handle suspension..

_mikey
 

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so there is a open hole in the intake? hmm like a vacuum leak? atleast cap it off. probably had a cap on it and blew it off under boost. if its to the pvc or something it was probably not used as boosting your pvc valve causes your crank case to pressurise and hmm oh yeah white smoke. should be somewhere to hook that hose up before the turbo so it can see vacuum
 

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where in hawaii are you? I'm not currently there but should be back in june. I'm not currently a turbo guy, but I use to own a 86 944 turbo. might be able to send you to a buddy of mine he is a mechanic and has a 20+PSI turbo Reagal
 

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You have some electrical problems as you already know...take the time to sort them out and your car should be straight. On SR20FORUM.com Calum sells an ecu that is programable for either 150-350. Depending on what your looking for, the $350 doesnt require a burner and can be tuned real time and offers complete control of all sensors, similar to chrome.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
SucKit said:
You have some electrical problems as you already know...take the time to sort them out and your car should be straight. On SR20FORUM.com Calum sells an ecu that is programable for either 150-350. Depending on what your looking for, the $350 doesnt require a burner and can be tuned real time and offers complete control of all sensors, similar to chrome.
awesome. ill look into that. do you know if it has an option to bypass/eliminate the maf?



anyway, ill get some pictures of the hose.


so, if i need to replace gaskets, can i just get a gasket for a sr20"de"? basically just ask for a gasket for the stock g20 motor at the parts counter?
 

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I have the temp gauge issue on my JDM SR20DE too. From what I gather it's standard with JDM engine swaps, because the coolant temp sensor operates in a different range or something. Eventually I'm going to replace the sensor with the one from my old engine, but the car works fine with the funky temp gauge, and if it sits idle long enough the gauge will go up and the fans will kick on.
 

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Welcome to the forum. Looks like most people already took care of your questions. The turning radius on G20s sucks hard...you just have to get used to it, unfortunately. The regular handling makes up for it though.

p.s. Shai Hulud rocks! Or used to rock anyway, before their singer left for NFG. Haven't heard any of their stuff since...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
well, i went and bought a new t-stat, oil, filter, and a few other things.

the throttle problem has worsened over the day, the throttle does nothing below 2500 rpm, i have to down shift to get it above 2500 so itll work. its damn ghetto.


on a good note, the car is very fast...when the throttle works.

what is mor elikely to cause this problem? tps, iacv or maf?
 

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^^ most likely cause. if there is a big vacuum leak its the same thing as the maf working incorrectly. unmetered air is entering the engine. computer cant properly adjust air/fuel mixture
 

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Seriously do a boost leak test NOW.

The guy that set up your car sounds like a n00b, so go over EVERYTHING and check his work.

And no you cannot bypass the MAF as far as I know, I doubt thats your problem anyways.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ive pretty much got most of the maintainecne done. oil was disgusting. tranny is leaking oil, looks like shift shaft seal.


i still cant find out wtf that 3/4 inch hose is for. its connected to something on the bottom driver side of the intake manifold and points straight towards the driver side strut.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
StangG20 said:
^^ most likely cause. if there is a big vacuum leak its the same thing as the maf working incorrectly. unmetered air is entering the engine. computer cant properly adjust air/fuel mixture
but if more air was coming in than what was metered, it would run lean and it seems to be running rich. i just want the damn thing to idle.




the BIGGEST problem is this..after ive been driving the car for about 10 minutes, if i rip through just even one gear..after i let off, the throttle no longer works.

i have to down shift and dump the clutch to lurch the car really hard to get it to work again. i want to say its electrical, but it only does it when ive been driving for a while. :-\
 
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