Infiniti G20 Nissan Primera Forum banner

1 - 20 of 41 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
593 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
ok i have been just sucking it up and dealing with the no heat issue but this is just plain rediculous.here is my deal. i have a 1993 p10 wirth a gti-r motor. the heat doesnt blow hot it blows ice cold an dtehn when i move it to hot it blows cold not even a littl warm at all just straight cold. for some reson for like teh first 2 seconds it feels a little warm.when i move the switch i can hear the blend door moving. the thermostate opens, the car runs at exactly half way on teh temp gauge, coolent level is full and does not leak also treid bleeding the system..i even treid swapping the 2 lines hgoing into the heater core couse im out of ideas. stil the same thing. anyone have a clue? i kinda gave up and been letting it be cold for the past 2 months but man its cold.thanks
 

·
'Luke'
Joined
·
5,319 Posts
Are the heater hoses themselves warming up normally ? It seems like there is no hot water getting to your heater box....You might still have an air-pocket.
How did you bleed the system ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
504 Posts
There might be some trapped air, but you should still get weak heat.
I would look inside the engine compartment along the fire wall. There is a water bypass valve on the heater core inlet line that must open when the temperature selector is set to hot. The water bypass valve is controlled by a cable that has possibly been disconnected, or the valve is internally defective or the heater core is clogged and no hot water is able to flow through it even when the valve is directing hot water to the heater core. I hope it is not a clogged heater core because disassembling the dash to get to it is no fun. However no heat when the temperature outside is single digits is less fun.

Good luck. I hope you find the hvac controller is disconnected somehow from the water bypass valve or something similarly simple.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
504 Posts
I'm sorry I've been working on too many Toyotas. The G20 doesn't have a water bypass valve. Still I'm hoping that the heater core isn't plugged. Do both lines running to the heater core get hot? If only one gets hot then the core is plugged. If they both get hot then you have flow through the core and there is a problem with the cable from the controller (though it sounds like it is working OK).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
504 Posts
The cable from the heater controller runs to the bottom of the heater core housing. If you haven’t already checked make sure it is operating and still connected. I’m not sure if the connection is on the driver or passenger side, but guessing near the passenger’s feet side of the center console. You might have to remove some trim to get to it. Good luck.

 

·
'Luke'
Joined
·
5,319 Posts
If the heater core does not get hot you obviously have a problem there: the hot coolant does not reach it. If everything is connected I would consider a system bleed again.
 

·
Pizdeet kak Trotsky
Joined
·
3,069 Posts
That or volts thro the bollocks ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
504 Posts
From what you have done and said it sounds like a clogged heater core. You may still get some air to blow through but not enough coolant flow to get heat. I'm truly sorry if this is your problem. Replacing the heater core requires an inexpensive part, but involves lots of labor (aftermarket heater core: $50, labor: hundreds). I've replaced a couple of heater cores, never on the G. You can do it yourself, but will really need a garage to keep track of parts and stay out of the cold. The only tough part is that you will probably need to disconnect the evaporator coil. You should bring the car to a shop for this step so they can capture the refrigerant and later will recharge your AC.

It is worth another try to burp the cooling system. Click on the link below to get the official FSM procedure. I hope eliminating any air in the system fixes the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,107 Posts
That last post is only half of the procedure. There is a bleeder on the hose on the firewall side of the engine- small pipe with a cap and small clamp. You can run a hose from that to the overflow tank, let it run until there are no bubbles in the tank.
 

·
drunken master
Joined
·
10,091 Posts
have you tryed pulling heater lines from engine and filling top one with water and see how fst it drins to the bottom? If all is funtional it sounds like the heater coer is cloged. not sure if someone said that yet cuase i dont like to read much more the nthe post you have given
 

·
drunken master
Joined
·
10,091 Posts
so you are saying that the heater lines are getting hot corect? you have established that all machanicals in hvac system are working l00%? and raiseing rpm and are squeezing the healer lines does not efect heat at all? car does not over heat? thermostate is working?

you do know a small clog in the heater core is all that is needed to prevent coolant flow. it seems like you hve a clog somewere or the core is airbound
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
504 Posts
lysander said:
That last post is only half of the procedure. There is a bleeder on the hose on the firewall side of the engine- small pipe with a cap and small clamp. You can run a hose from that to the overflow tank, let it run until there are no bubbles in the tank.
So, maybe the heater core remains somehow airbound. It seems worth the effort of trying again to remove air from the system. Maybe locating this last bleeder and following the FSM will do the trick.
 
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
Top