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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
it aint that bad but when i start up my car i here this tinging not pinging sound i was told its my timing chain this happens sometimes . I here this sound the most though when my car idles then it goes away after a few seconds-note this sound goes away in a few seconds in both situations is it my chain ??

5,266 Posts
Yep. It's the chain. Startup clatter. Check this out:

I've got this wicked loud jingling when I start the car. Sounds like the timing chain or something. What the heck is it and what's the fix?
Rick Zotz ([email protected])
This sounds like the symptoms I had. Mine were excessive clatter at startup, jingling at idle, and a "mad cricket" sound at high RPM WOT that all began at around 70K miles. For 91-92 SR20DE, the TSB (TSB# NTB92-056) talks about "a rattle in the timing chain area for short period when the engine is started after a one night soak or at low RPM caused by a leak-down of oil in the chain tensioner."

There is an upgraded chain tensioner available. The re-designed "countermeasure" part is superior to the factory one, a difference easily seen when both are viewed side by side. The oil chamber is larger, with a much larger passage to allow greater flow and pressure. A fresh O-ring is already installed on the new tensioned. The new gasket is a crimped, two-piece metal design, compared to the single stamping and rubber insert of the old one.

Installing the new tensioner seems to have eliminated this problem, but time will tell. The startup rattle had lessened somewhat prior to replacement, as temps in this area have been well below the 100-degree mark of recent weeks. Prices and part numbers:

Chain tensioner 13070-02J200 $32
Gasket 13079-2J200 $7

This procedure will require 30 minutes and can be done alone. If your next oil change is soon, I recommend you do it immediately after installing the new tensioner, saving the trouble of removing the filter again. Tools: small ratchet, long 10mm socket, small rag, oil pan.

Let the car cool down.
Place the oil pan under the car beneath the oil filter area. Oil will drip from the filter during removal.
Remove the oil filter. IMPORTANT: wrap the rag around the filter shaft to block the passages to the engine and prevent tiny parts from falling in.
Remove the top nut and washer from the tensioner. Use the ratchet and 10mm socket.
Remove the bottom nut and washer SLOWLY, so the tensioner won't pop out and send them flying.
The tensioner should partly pop out. If not, tap it lightly with the end of the ratchet until it does.
Jiggle and rotate the tensioner until you can remove it past the oil shaft.
Ensure that the new tensioner is locked, with plunger fully retracted and the catch engaged with the lock pin. Coat the O-ring with a light film of motor oil.
Orient the new gasket "wings up", and slide it onto the mounting studs.
Orient the new tensioner "teeth up", and SLOWLY slide it into the hole until the studs reveal enough thread to start the washers and nuts.
Dribble some threadlock on the nuts if you are concerned about them backing off. Install the top washer and nut but do not tighten.
Install the bottom washer and nut. Tighten both nuts to about 6 ft-lb (normal hand tightening is OK).
Remove the rag and install the oil filter (or change the oil and filter now).
Start the engine. The chain should clatter for about three seconds then operate silently. If you are concerned about this, crank the engine a few times without the coil wire attached to build some oil pressure, then start.
Check for leaks, then go for a test drive. You're done!
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