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First let me explain a little about how this works. Then once you know that you will know why I like the filters I like.

Once oil enters the filter through the outside holes, it is forced through the filter media and exits out the middle hole that screws to the housing..full flow filters work from the outside in. At the dome of the filter there is a spring that holds the media cylinder against the base. At the top or bottom, a good filter will have a spring loaded by-pass valve...if pressure inside the filter overcomes the spring, the oil flows around the media back to the motor. At the base, a good filter will have an anti-drain back valve. Think of this as a check valve...it allows oil to flow in through the outside holes, but not in reverse. This is to keep the filter full and prevent momentary oil starvation to the engine as the filter fills up.

Here is some info on micron ratings vs. efficiency for filter media:
http://www.filtercouncil.org/techdata/tsbs/89-5R3.html

It just so happens I did an autopsy on a PureOne filter I was using as a tranny fluid filter to see if I had any metal present. It was not on the motor very long...it's purpose was to initially filter the ATF before I installed a Trasko by-pass filter. I'll talk about it 1st...here are the pics:






In the 1st pic the parts are shown in order left to right...casing, spring, media, and base. The 2nd pic shows the top of the media cylinder...the leaf spring goes on top of this. The green "button" in the middle is the by-pass valve...both the spring and by-pass valve are at the dome end of the filter. The 3rd pic shows the feed end of the filter...the red disk is the silicone rubber diaphragm-type anti-drain back valve (ADBV). If you look at the filter base you can tell how it would cover the outside holes preventing back flow from the filter.

Why do I like this filter? Take a close look at the media...it has numerous pleats that are close together. This means this filter has a larger surface area than most. The media itself is one the best out there for conventional filters...it is constructed of a dense paper/glass fiber and will catch particles at 99% @ 20 microns and 96% @ 10 microns efficiency. The largest media pore size is 42 microns, the smallest is 10 microns. The silicone ADBV is high quality and effective.

The only downfall for this filter is the by-pass valve location. It's at the top of the filter...if it were to function, oil would wash over the outside of the media possibly picking up debris and carrying it to the engine. Not a huge downside due to the unlikely event the by-pass valve would ever function...the media would have to be clogged for this to happen. This is a very well designed filter overall.

Believe it or not, Wix is also a very high quality filter...here's a pic:

The surface area and number of pleats is slightly less than the PureOne. The media is also not quite as fine...the largest pore size is 58 microns, the smallest is 19 microns. This cuts down the efficiency...Wix says it catches 98 % of particles 25 microns or larger. However, it also flows a bit better than the PureOne for the same reason. This filter also has a high quality silicone ADBV similar to the PureOne. The biggest difference is the location of the by-pass valve...it is at the entrance of the filter. If it functions, the oil by passes the media completely avoiding the situation in the PureOne.

Other quality filters are Mobil 1 and K&N...both are Champion Labs filters...note how similar they are. Here's the pics:



The Mobil 1 uses a synthetic media with excellent filtration ability...construction is similar to a PureOne, but more robust and also uses a heavy duty silicone ADBV. The K&N uses conventional media, but has more surface area than the Mobil 1 or PureOne...the ADBV is black nitrile. Plus the K&N has the nut welded on the dome for easy removal. Both of these filters have the by-pass valve at the top of the filter. These filters are comparable to the Wix or PureOne...the difference is cost...bang for the buck, the Wix and PureOne beat them.

This brings me to the Fram filters ...take a look at the pics:




You want to avoid Fram Extra Guard filters like the plague. They are very cheaply made (ends of the media cylinder is cardboard), media surface area is 2/3 that of the PureOne, the media filtration ability is average at best, and the ADBV is black nitrile vs. silicone. The Fram Tough Guard is better with a cheaper version of the silicone anti-drain back valve and average filtration ability. The Fram Extended Guard is actually pretty good...but it is still cheaply constructed...note all 3 have the by-pass valve built into the leaf spring like the Toyota/Denso filter. Quality doesn't hold a candle to the Wix, PureOne, Mobil 1, or K&N filters in this respect. Fram filters are cheap for a reason...if you want to go cheap, use a STP (better media) or Wal-Mart SuperTech.

Here's a comparison of a few of the above filters:
http://www.lesabret.com/filters/filter.html

Here's who makes the various filters out there:

Fram

Fram Extra Guard (std)
Fram Tough Guard (different media?)
Fram X2 (Silicone ADBV, Fuzzy media)
Fram Extended Guard (same as the X2)
Mileguard (Jiffy)
Honda (although some are made by Filtech)
Chrysler line up except for the Cummins
Pennzoil (Extra Guard)
Deffense
Canadian Tire (Extra Guard)


Champion Labs

Bosch
Car and Driver
Deutsch
Mobil 1 (syn media)
STP
SuperTech
K&N
Valvoline filters
Mighty
Service Champ
Lee
AutoZone Value Craft
AC Delco (some)
VW (some)
Warner
Luberfiner
Trust


Wix

Carquest Blue
Carquest Red (lower quality with nitrile ADBV)
Napa Gold
Napa Silver (lower quality with nitrile ADBV)
Kralinator (in Canada)
ALLIANCE (Freightliner aftermarket)


Purolator (Arvin Meritor)

Purolator Premium Plus (nitrile ADBV)
Purolator PureOne (silicone ADBV, different media)
Havoline
Maxlife Valvoline (some)
Group7
Promotive
Powerflow
Quaker State (less media)
Advanced Auto Total Grip (less media)
Pep Boys Pro-Line
MotorCraft
Superflo
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Then for the absolute best if money were no issue:

For a conventional set-up...the Amsoil EaO filter:
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/eao.aspx (still dont like AMSOil?)

Second choice would be the PureOne (which is the one I actually use on ALL my vehicles including the race Supra)

For a full flow cooler set-up...the Canton Racing CM filter:
http://www.cmfilters.com/spin-on.cfm (which is what i'll be using once I have a 2JZ in the Supra)
 

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uruG 02G
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so, the way you have this written, does this mean Champion Labs makes all the subsequent filters listed?

Champion Labs

Bosch
Car and Driver
Deutsch
Mobil 1 (syn media)
STP
SuperTech
K&N
Valvoline filters
Mighty
Service Champ
Lee
AutoZone Value Craft
AC Delco (some)
VW (some)
Warner
Luberfiner
Trust
 

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yeah $5 oem filter from everything g20 is teh best.
these threads you are making are very nice.
i used to use fram filters on my old g20 until it cried. then i got oem filters. i cut open a fram and i cried too.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
yeah $5 oem filter from everything g20 is the best.
Now why is that? How do you know?

I developed these threads to prevent this kind of thing, not that there's anything wrong with it if you know why.
I know alot of people (even some recently graduated UTI amateurs that think they're real "techs" now) that when they get out go 'Oh OEM, all the way. OE filters are the best, blah blah blah.'
Now that may be the case, I haven't analysed a Nissan filter. I always used them and thought they were good simply because there were "OEM"
But I have analyzed an OEM Toyota filter and Honda, which I could post, but i didn't think anyone was interested in those 2 here. And those OEM's werent as cracked up as there were supposed to be. "Honda" OEM blue filters are made by Honeywell, same company that makes Fram (and alarms, and fans, and jet engines) and suck. The Toyota was a little better but not much. Which is why I switched from using OEM Nissan to Purolator. The conclusion I came to w/ OEM filters is, they're mass produced. They have alot of vehicles to make filters for and in the long run of production they make them cheaper, so they're cheaper to produce and more expensive to sell since they're OEM.

But indeed, i haven't actually done an analysis on a NISSAN filter, but I really doubt it would be any different than the Toyota. I know the older baby blue Nissan filters sucked.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i meant that you can't beat getting a good filter for $5 when the auto store sells third world junk for more $.
Yeah, when it comes to the Fram. But the PureOne sells for $5 and is an excellent filter. I'd say better than the OEM



No, thats Jdub. i'm on Supramania tho. Thats where I came across it. Thought it was good information that everyone should know. I brought up to JDub the Eneos oil analysis too

Any chance on making these a sticky!
 

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'Luke'
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Whta's the Wix-filter partnr. for P11 ?
 
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