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Discussion Starter #165
so got more work done...


some rust...poked at it...then primed until next time



cut out all the rust...the back panel was also rusted....cut it out



then got a part of a qtr from a junk yard & cut my piece i needed out to fit...



then welded the inner in, added some "NU-metal" filler to make it smooth/prevent rust from comming back, then etched primered the inner panel from the hole as well as from the trunk...(dont have a pic)


then weleded in the outter panel..this actually was pretty damn good after weleding & grinding,, i almost didnt want to add any filler, but i had like 2 burn thrughs that required me to dump mpre weld into it, & slighty warped it a TINY bit...but then i had to hammer the weleded area down lower than the panel so the filler was flush with the paint...smoothed it all out, then through some primer on it to check that it all looked good....




i still need to put a guide coat on & do another sand...then put on some very lightweight filler to remove my sanding scratches...but then its ready for paint!!!!!




I do still have to do this dog leg as well....but the inner is now done (needs a bit more sanding/grinding)....just need to do the outter...both the inner & outter were rusted through a litte bit just like the one above..

 

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Nice man. Lots of little annoying shit to fix body wise... Mine is the same way.
 

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Discussion Starter #167
yes....luckily ALL the rust is now gone...it wasnt much .

just those 2 spots, then on the pass rear wheel well at the bottom, then on the oppisite side of the wheel well on the rocker end...but then also on the drivers rear wheel well on the rocker end...


now i need to fix the 1088901809810707 tiny dings i created over the last 3 years hacving this thing on jackstands in my 1 car garage...(always bumping into it, scratching it with shit)
 

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Dedication and work. Aweosme. That stuff takes forever. I hate body work (doing it) but admire those who can repair correctly
 

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That turned out great! Good job.
 

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Discussion Starter #171
its slowly coming together....

next adventrue is to figure out my ABS delete...


I bought a wilwood proportion valve, now i need some T's (while this is proving to be difficult to find m10x1 T's) might just swap over to 3/16
 

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Discussion Starter #174
Thanks.

i think im going to go to the junk yard tomorrow morning & grab the 4 way connector from the altima. I pulled a altima non ABS MC, so if i grab the way, no T's will be needed
 

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Discussion Starter #176
got pics?

also you sure you didnt go from the

MC to the Prop to the rear?

vs

MC to T then to prop then rears?


also your Altima MC have 4 lines or 2 coming out of it? Mine has 4 with the 2 rears having pressure reducer valves on them(on the MC)


looking in the Altima FSM, the non ABS unit uses a 4 way connector / prop valve on the firewall 2 lines in & 2 lines out (all for the rear)

 

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Discussion Starter #177
so if i go pull the 4 way connector from the junkyard, i eliminate the need of any T's & i run a Nissan approved / designed setup

hmmm llooks like im hitting the junkyard tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter #179
pulled the connector from the altima.


The Thing is the altima had rear drums.
I than found a 94+ maxima that was non abs and had rear discs. It had the same /similar master cylinder like the altimas along with the residual pressure / pressure reducer valves on it. It also had the same 4 way connector on the firewall.

So I'm guessing that there is no need to have a proportional valve when using the altima Mc. The 4 way T thing is really just 2 unions built into 1 unit.

The top to holes are connected and the bottom 2 are also connected... They are seperate channels


So I'm wondering if I will be good with just this and the altima mc
 
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