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2001 Base, 90,000 miles

I was able to fix my P0440 and P1440 (small leak negative and positive pressure) system codes. It started as 0440 and later became 1440 over the course of about a year.

The short answer is I replaced the EVAP canister vent control valve with a new one (Dorman 911-501 OE Solutions Vapor Canister Purge Valve) from Amazon for $59.60.

The rest of this post is just to document what I did for anyone that is getting either of these codes and wants a possible solution. Researching the problem was a little frustrating since there were so many possibilities and all of the parts that might need replacing were not cheap. What I was able to find was that the cause and solution for my car is fairly common. So if you have either of these codes and don't know where to begin, read on.

First, tighten your gas cap. If that doesn't work remove the cap and inspect it. If bad, replace it. Also inspect where it screws on, something may not be right.

Second, inspect the hoses underneath the left rear bumper (where the Vapor canister is). If there are any obvious broken, split, etc. hoses, replace.

Third, you're now left with evap control parts that may be bad. Around the web it seems the vent control valve is the most likely culprit so I advise checking that first.

It is attached to the Vapor canister so it should be easy to locate. I recommend removing the vapor canister with the valve attached as that is probably the easiest way to remove it, especially if rust is an issue where you live (I'm in the Chicago area).

Wear eye protection and a dust mask as you will be looking up and any dirt, dust, rust will fall on your face.

There are 3 hoses attached, 2 to the vapor canister and 1 to the valve. Detach the smaller hose to the canister and the large one to the valve. Leave the large hose attached to the canister as it's too difficult to remove in place. The vapor canister has three 10 mm bolts holding it in place, 2 in the rear and 1 in the front, remove them. The canister will now hang by 2 pins on the canister, a long one in the rear and a short one in front. Do the front one first by pushing up and over (you'll see what I mean). Then finagle the rear pin out of the slot.

The canister should now hang by the larger hose and the electrical connector to the valve. Remove both.

You can test the valve by blowing into the outlet where the hose was connected. With no voltage to the terminals you should have free air flow. With 12 volts to the terminals (see FSM for polarity) there should be no air flow.

Mine was defective as air was getting though when it shouldn't.

Replace valve and reverse the disassembly procedure.

Notes: One of the bolts holding the valve to the canister sheared off (did I mention it's rusty here). I had to drill out the stud as I didn't want to buy a new canister ($200).

If you get a P0446 code after doing this, it probably means you didn't attach the electrical terminal all the way.

If you have a full tank of gas when you do this, don't expect the SES light to go out until your tank is about 3/4 full.

Hope this helps someone later on down the road.
 

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One of the last 2 codes I have left to fight through on my car, reviving this from the dead, so I can reference it easy. P1440 and P1706, almost CEL free.
 

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One of the last 2 codes I have left to fight through on my car, reviving this from the dead, so I can reference it easy. P1440 and P1706, almost CEL free.
Finally getting around to replacing this part, trying to source a used one as the dorman replacement noted above "Dorman 911-501 OE Solutions Vapor Canister Purge Valve" now goes for about $70 shipped. Few images of the part below responsible for throwing the P1440 or P0440 CEL codes. This is the part that is attached to the vapor canister mentioned above.




Its been cold as mother lately, so I haven't even bothered going outside to test this. Hoping with a few CPO's up on facebook, that maybe I can get a OEM valve in working order on the cheap.
 
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