P10 #3 - 95 QN0 G20t
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:thumbsup:
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So, the P11 VE tensioners have arrived from Japan. They are different than the tensioners sold here in the US, actually a hybrid....
Top - 20v/VET, Middle one is the revised DE/RR tensioner and the bottom is the P11 VE tensioner
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Here are some excited tensioners
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Colors on the backs of the tensioners. I thought this might indicate what engine they were affiliated with, but no dice. The 20v/VET here has green, but the unit installed on this car was orange. The RR in the black car had a green one. So the color must indicate something else.
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So, no I didnt buy a 20v tensioner, but the one in the pic is a brand new one. I had forgotten that I had one with the VET long block I purchased some time ago. As you can see it looks pretty much identical to the RR/DE one. I put on the caliper on the overall length and the stay and they are basically the same. As you can see the P11 VE tensioner's shaft has the course teeth which looks like the old school DE tensioner, but with the revised DE/RR tensioner body casting. I do not have a way of conclusively check, but the tension spring on the 20v feels to be heavier/stronger spring pressure. This is comparing the new P11 VE tensioner to the 20v one and the RR one seems to be the least heavy, but that could be due to it being used (it is from an 02 Sport). Just keep in mind this is just subjective back to back comparison with my thumb. I have no doubt there is something different between the tensioners, but by just looking at them it is hard to tell (other than the p11 ve course teeth) what and how those changes impact the engines (I have a feeling its not that critical).
Top - 20v/VET, Middle one is the revised DE/RR tensioner and the bottom is the P11 VE tensioner
Here are some excited tensioners
Colors on the backs of the tensioners. I thought this might indicate what engine they were affiliated with, but no dice. The 20v/VET here has green, but the unit installed on this car was orange. The RR in the black car had a green one. So the color must indicate something else.
So, no I didnt buy a 20v tensioner, but the one in the pic is a brand new one. I had forgotten that I had one with the VET long block I purchased some time ago. As you can see it looks pretty much identical to the RR/DE one. I put on the caliper on the overall length and the stay and they are basically the same. As you can see the P11 VE tensioner's shaft has the course teeth which looks like the old school DE tensioner, but with the revised DE/RR tensioner body casting. I do not have a way of conclusively check, but the tension spring on the 20v feels to be heavier/stronger spring pressure. This is comparing the new P11 VE tensioner to the 20v one and the RR one seems to be the least heavy, but that could be due to it being used (it is from an 02 Sport). Just keep in mind this is just subjective back to back comparison with my thumb. I have no doubt there is something different between the tensioners, but by just looking at them it is hard to tell (other than the p11 ve course teeth) what and how those changes impact the engines (I have a feeling its not that critical).
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decided to pick up and install a new oem cable and the "miko tranny saver bracket." Bracket works like it should, but a pain to install that additional bolt though. I was going to install euro tails yesterday but didnt have light bulbs and was too lazy to go to the store. So I decided I'll have rockauto deliver some to me instead.
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Haven't done too much. In the neighborhood I currently reside, with the P10 I am usually the dude with the oldest, most shabby car so to look a bit more respectable I spent some time on making it look a bit more respectable. So I finally decided I should wash the car. I never have since I bought it. It did get washed once, but a friend did it as he couldn't stand it lol
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There was a lot of build up in the trunk area, fuel door so I spent a lot of time on cleaning that up. Looks respectable now, but not perfect.
Went around with a toothbrush and got as much moss off from the window sills, door sills, door handles, spoiler, sunroof. Its surprising how much moss was still stuck after a couple of washes! There is plenty of fall out on the paint, but before I go to town with a clay bar, I plan to remove the left over adhesive from the door&fender guards and the pin striping.
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Don't mind the full trunk...I used the trunk of this car (& the back seat) as storage when I was moving....and as you can see I still haven't quite unpacked yet lol
Earlier today, I tackled a small issue that only recently has come to light and that is the high beams. They didnt work. I originally thought the bulbs on the high side were out, so I changed them out with some Phillips Xtreme Visions. But that wasn't the issue, after some testing it ended up the stalk was bad. For any people with high beam problems, if the blue high beam light in the dash doesn't turn on, there is a good chance the stalk is bad. If the blue high beam light comes on, but there are no high beams, good chance the head light filaments have gone out.
Going back to the Xtreme visions, the H4 versions are awesome in the JDM lights, which is why I went with these again here but in USDM 9004 variety. We'll see how good of a bandaid these bulbs are!
This Saturday I will probably swap out the Alternator to a 20V/P11 style one and change the driver door hinges.
There was a lot of build up in the trunk area, fuel door so I spent a lot of time on cleaning that up. Looks respectable now, but not perfect.
Went around with a toothbrush and got as much moss off from the window sills, door sills, door handles, spoiler, sunroof. Its surprising how much moss was still stuck after a couple of washes! There is plenty of fall out on the paint, but before I go to town with a clay bar, I plan to remove the left over adhesive from the door&fender guards and the pin striping.
Don't mind the full trunk...I used the trunk of this car (& the back seat) as storage when I was moving....and as you can see I still haven't quite unpacked yet lol
Earlier today, I tackled a small issue that only recently has come to light and that is the high beams. They didnt work. I originally thought the bulbs on the high side were out, so I changed them out with some Phillips Xtreme Visions. But that wasn't the issue, after some testing it ended up the stalk was bad. For any people with high beam problems, if the blue high beam light in the dash doesn't turn on, there is a good chance the stalk is bad. If the blue high beam light comes on, but there are no high beams, good chance the head light filaments have gone out.
Going back to the Xtreme visions, the H4 versions are awesome in the JDM lights, which is why I went with these again here but in USDM 9004 variety. We'll see how good of a bandaid these bulbs are!
This Saturday I will probably swap out the Alternator to a 20V/P11 style one and change the driver door hinges.
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Thanks Dane! Your compliments motivated me to do this after work
Light bulbs showed up last Friday so I decided to break them out and install them today with help from Colin's awesome how to thread.
http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread...pean-Taillamps-FAQ!!!#/topics/29487?_k=qjgisg
I did repin the wiring...not difficult to figure out. The center panel 'fog lights' are set up to light up when the brakes are pressed. I used like a 1" hole saw to cut out the light bulb area for the 2nd fog light.
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So yesterday, decided that I should take care of the EGR CEL that has been persistant. In the past, I was able to just plug in the egr temp sensor and the cel wouldn't trigger, but isnt the case with this car. So I ended up buying some 68k ohm resistors and rigged up a pig tail I had so I could just plug it in to the harness. So far so good.
Also I had forgotten to mention...the euro tails I bought had essentially no butyl tape on them so I picked some up from a local paint shop, a roll of 15' x 3/8" was $11. For those looking for the stuff, you really only need 1/4". I didnt know which I should buy so I bought the 3/8" and honestly its way too much. But with the 3/8" I was able to stretch it in to 1/4" size and it works well. Stuff I bought was called 3M window weld.
Also I had forgotten to mention...the euro tails I bought had essentially no butyl tape on them so I picked some up from a local paint shop, a roll of 15' x 3/8" was $11. For those looking for the stuff, you really only need 1/4". I didnt know which I should buy so I bought the 3/8" and honestly its way too much. But with the 3/8" I was able to stretch it in to 1/4" size and it works well. Stuff I bought was called 3M window weld.
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1,525 Posts
So, I'm not a skipper anymore
Spent my time at "work" today working on the car. I decided to head out 2hrs than I usually do and get a head start.
Before I left work on Friday, I primered the door hinges. 1st thing I got in, it was just warm enough in the building that I was able to coat it in some Mazda white I had laying around. Later on sprayed on clear on it as well. Here's the final product.
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So if you've been following my other builds, you'll probably remember I removed the stock springs/AGXs from the KH3 car a couple weeks ago. So I decided that I did not have an excuse not to get this done :evil:
Started out with the rear, since I am just swapping assemblies, so its actually pretty quick. Its always a pain to remove the back seat, but its a pinch easier with the touring car's 60/40 split seats Relatively straight forward no surprises. I also decided I should finally install the SS braided lines from Technafit. A couple months ago I attempted it but technafit sent me lines for a totally different car. The fitting would thread, but the seat inside the fitting was inverted from what I needed. It took a few weeks as technafit insisted they sent the right parts so they wanted pics. They finally acknowledged the problem and sent new lines to me, and I've been sitting on them for a while. Anyway went on without a hitch, although I wish they used an angled banjo fitting on the caliper....it would fit much better imo.
Since I had the AGXs out, my curiosity lead me to the FSM as to what oem springs were on this set. I originally got this set in a trade for some Eibach pro kits I had on my other white car. But low on behold, I lucked out and have springs from a MT car, so this will slightly lower the car in the front compared to the AT springs the car had (remember I swapped this car)
The front was a bit more complicated as I wanted to not only replace the shocks & brake lines, but replace the UCAs & tie rod ends as well.
After removing most of the parts...
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I had a bit of issues with the cheapo UCAs I had bought. The passenger side's big end was too big. I had to do some massaging to make it fit but I got it to work. I instantly regretted my purchase however. The Driver's side installed without a problem however. Otherwise this portion was also relatively straight forward. When I was originally putting this car together I had swapped out the 3rd links to the 1991-Jan 94 style one so I could use 91-94 brake lines. I don't know if I ever mentioned, but where the brake line attaches to the frame rail is also different on between 91-5/94 and 6/94-96 cars. It is different enough that you need to either modify that little bracket of remove the bracket and replace with the later car. I had gone out to the wrecking yard during the summer to try to get the bracket, but the spot remover bit I had wasn't able to reach the welds. So I gave up. At the end of the day, you can't just swap the third links to use the brake lines, its a little more involved and not really worth the time imo. Anyway, I swapped the car's original thirds back in and the techna-fit lines I ordered were for the later cars so all is well.
After going through the install and problems with the techna-fits, I really wish I had gotten goodridge lines instead. I didn't have a problem with those when installing on the black car and the goodridge lines fit better...anyway next time I know
Since I was working on the front suspension and pretty much had it a part, I also came across some ES swaybar bushings while looking for parts. Decided to install those bad boys as well. The oem bushings have seen much much better days....
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The car had a really bad cartoonish boing boing sound when driving over bumps. The Culprit was both end links were completely shot. Seemed like the grease dried out years ago as rust was coming out of a small hole in the boots. I bought end links a while back so on they went.
I ended up replacing the tie rod ends anyway, but surprisingly the ones on the car were still in good shape, although a bit crusty looking lol
Next I decided that should dump the stock exhaust.....so off came the exhaust from my other white car. The exhaust is a VRS 2.5" stainless steel one. It was just hanging off the hangers so it came off the car pretty easy. I usually have the worst luck with exhaust bolts, but on this car all came off with ease.
Stock vs VRS
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Exhaust tip
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Finally I took the time to swap the door hinges I mentioned earlier. It sucks that you need to remove the fender to do it, but man it is worth swapping the hinges if yours are sagging. Its a great feeling to open the door without it dragging on the clasp!
So with the suspension work, it rides waaaaaaay better. The car controlled, no weird noises and roll has reduced significantly. Definitely worth the effort!
The exhaust, as I remembered, it drones more than I'd like, but it is quieter than when it was on the other car. The other car's catalytic converter was an aftermarket one installed by a local exhaust shop and well, they didn't do a good job welding in the new cat...a few burn through holes in the welded areas and the outlet gasket was leaking. So with the oem cat this car has and a fresh gasket is probably what is making it a bit quieter imo.
Anyway its nice to finally give up the captain's hat!
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Spent my time at "work" today working on the car. I decided to head out 2hrs than I usually do and get a head start.
Before I left work on Friday, I primered the door hinges. 1st thing I got in, it was just warm enough in the building that I was able to coat it in some Mazda white I had laying around. Later on sprayed on clear on it as well. Here's the final product.
So if you've been following my other builds, you'll probably remember I removed the stock springs/AGXs from the KH3 car a couple weeks ago. So I decided that I did not have an excuse not to get this done :evil:
Started out with the rear, since I am just swapping assemblies, so its actually pretty quick. Its always a pain to remove the back seat, but its a pinch easier with the touring car's 60/40 split seats
Relatively straight forward no surprises. I also decided I should finally install the SS braided lines from Technafit. A couple months ago I attempted it but technafit sent me lines for a totally different car. The fitting would thread, but the seat inside the fitting was inverted from what I needed. It took a few weeks as technafit insisted they sent the right parts so they wanted pics. They finally acknowledged the problem and sent new lines to me, and I've been sitting on them for a while. Anyway went on without a hitch, although I wish they used an angled banjo fitting on the caliper....it would fit much better imo.Since I had the AGXs out, my curiosity lead me to the FSM as to what oem springs were on this set. I originally got this set in a trade for some Eibach pro kits I had on my other white car. But low on behold, I lucked out and have springs from a MT car, so this will slightly lower the car in the front compared to the AT springs the car had (remember I swapped this car)
The front was a bit more complicated as I wanted to not only replace the shocks & brake lines, but replace the UCAs & tie rod ends as well.
After removing most of the parts...
I had a bit of issues with the cheapo UCAs I had bought. The passenger side's big end was too big. I had to do some massaging to make it fit but I got it to work. I instantly regretted my purchase however. The Driver's side installed without a problem however. Otherwise this portion was also relatively straight forward. When I was originally putting this car together I had swapped out the 3rd links to the 1991-Jan 94 style one so I could use 91-94 brake lines. I don't know if I ever mentioned, but where the brake line attaches to the frame rail is also different on between 91-5/94 and 6/94-96 cars. It is different enough that you need to either modify that little bracket of remove the bracket and replace with the later car. I had gone out to the wrecking yard during the summer to try to get the bracket, but the spot remover bit I had wasn't able to reach the welds. So I gave up. At the end of the day, you can't just swap the third links to use the brake lines, its a little more involved and not really worth the time imo. Anyway, I swapped the car's original thirds back in and the techna-fit lines I ordered were for the later cars so all is well.
After going through the install and problems with the techna-fits, I really wish I had gotten goodridge lines instead. I didn't have a problem with those when installing on the black car and the goodridge lines fit better...anyway next time I know
Since I was working on the front suspension and pretty much had it a part, I also came across some ES swaybar bushings while looking for parts. Decided to install those bad boys as well. The oem bushings have seen much much better days....
The car had a really bad cartoonish boing boing sound when driving over bumps. The Culprit was both end links were completely shot. Seemed like the grease dried out years ago as rust was coming out of a small hole in the boots. I bought end links a while back so on they went.
I ended up replacing the tie rod ends anyway, but surprisingly the ones on the car were still in good shape, although a bit crusty looking lol
Next I decided that should dump the stock exhaust.....so off came the exhaust from my other white car. The exhaust is a VRS 2.5" stainless steel one. It was just hanging off the hangers so it came off the car pretty easy. I usually have the worst luck with exhaust bolts, but on this car all came off with ease.
Stock vs VRS
Exhaust tip
Finally I took the time to swap the door hinges I mentioned earlier. It sucks that you need to remove the fender to do it, but man it is worth swapping the hinges if yours are sagging. Its a great feeling to open the door without it dragging on the clasp!
So with the suspension work, it rides waaaaaaay better. The car controlled, no weird noises and roll has reduced significantly. Definitely worth the effort!
The exhaust, as I remembered, it drones more than I'd like, but it is quieter than when it was on the other car. The other car's catalytic converter was an aftermarket one installed by a local exhaust shop and well, they didn't do a good job welding in the new cat...a few burn through holes in the welded areas and the outlet gasket was leaking. So with the oem cat this car has and a fresh gasket is probably what is making it a bit quieter imo.
Anyway its nice to finally give up the captain's hat!
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2,251 Posts
nice stuff, could you give more detail on how you got rid of the EGR light.
You made something to just plug into the harness?
You made something to just plug into the harness?
Joined
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1,525 Posts
Yes, I had a pig tail of the EGR temp sensor and I crimped on a resister onto the pig tail. The EGR/purge solenoid needs to be just plugged in. This will probably work for a '99 but for the 00+ cars the resistor that you need to use is different IIRC, I read something about it on the dash. IIRC you need to have the EGR valve/position sensor still plugged in.
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So after all day on the dyno I went from 135hp to 155hp :-\
I thought I had the vvl switching figured out but the 135hp is just on the low lobes. The 155hp is with Charles' squiggley and n1s cams. After some trouble shooting Charles heard what he thought could be rod knock more details later
I thought I had the vvl switching figured out but the 135hp is just on the low lobes. The 155hp is with Charles' squiggley and n1s cams. After some trouble shooting Charles heard what he thought could be rod knock
more details later
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Dyno Day
Last Saturday, Charles was awesome and let me use his dyno for the whole day
As mentioned before the numbers were not fantastic, but very informative and although I was tired by the end of the day I was satisfied
First runs were these and the only pic I have of the dyno.
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135hp. Which is the low cam only and about the same as a stock bolt on car. I only found out on the dyno that the cam switching was not functioning. However it is pretty surprising imo that the low cam on the 20v holds to almost 7k before falling off a cliff. Anyway, at the end of the day I think it was my wiring that was bad, but it could be the ecu (which has been modified to do the switching). If anyone remembers I did have the suspicion that it was not working as I didnt think the top end was there. Well I guess I was right. The LED part in the dash was working and that was all. So I think I wasted like 2-3 hours on trying to figure out was going on. The following runs the high cams were activated manually, by me grounding the switch out in the cigarette lighter.
My p10 surrounded by high dollar company...In the pic if you look closely at the dyno screen you can see the run with the high cams around 150hp.
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Anyway, with the SSAC, stock 20v cams and CAI the engine made about 150hp. Which is low. But thought that maybe the SSAC was killing power. Charles suggested to change the cams to N1s first as the squiggley was designed for a more aggressive cam. So while on the dyno I swapped the cams....
Exhaust cam in, about to drop in the intake cam in.
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With Charles suggestion, I ran the cams in. About 20 secs of cranking, 10 mins at 2000 and 15 at 3000 IIRC.
Did another run. IIRC the power was basically the same....so maybe the SSAC really sucks.....is what I was praying for.
Decided to swap the squiggley in. It is a tight fit with the A/C in there....had to bend the low pressure line back a bit to get the No. 1 runner in to fit. The header uses up every inch of space available. It sits right up next to oil pan and crossmember. it is tight. Because of the big collector on the 4-1, the bottom runners do hang a little below the cross member, but this car isnt lowered at all so I'm not worried.
Bye bye SSAC
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Hello squiggley!
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Did a run....155hp....Charles helped diagnose what was wrong with the car....tried advancing timing, reducing timing, checked fuel pressure etc. His trained ear noticed something I didnt hear....knock knock knock. Packed it up for the day....on the way home I did hear the knocking however luckily I live close by so it didnt throw a rod yet. At idle I do not notice it, but 2000-3000 there is audible knock under load at least. At idle there isn't much to hear (at least for me)
So the engine was only making what it did was probably due to progressing rod knock over the dyno runs.... I'm thinking the mystery sound I had during the summer was probably the start of the rod knock.
As disappointing that may sound, I was not too mad/upset. Although the end result was rod knock, but I did learn that the cam switching was fubar'd, and high cams sound awesome particularly with the squiggley =) so I have cool stuff to look forward to, can't wait to see what the car will really be like once its 100%. That is car guy life and I like it.
Charles is helping me out again and within a couple/few weeks time (I hope) this car will be back on the road. Can't wait to see what the 20v will really do with the squiggley and N1s
A big thanks to Charles!
Last Saturday, Charles was awesome and let me use his dyno for the whole day
As mentioned before the numbers were not fantastic, but very informative and although I was tired by the end of the day I was satisfied
First runs were these and the only pic I have of the dyno.
135hp. Which is the low cam only and about the same as a stock bolt on car. I only found out on the dyno that the cam switching was not functioning. However it is pretty surprising imo that the low cam on the 20v holds to almost 7k before falling off a cliff. Anyway, at the end of the day I think it was my wiring that was bad, but it could be the ecu (which has been modified to do the switching). If anyone remembers I did have the suspicion that it was not working as I didnt think the top end was there. Well I guess I was right. The LED part in the dash was working and that was all. So I think I wasted like 2-3 hours on trying to figure out was going on. The following runs the high cams were activated manually, by me grounding the switch out in the cigarette lighter.
My p10 surrounded by high dollar company...In the pic if you look closely at the dyno screen you can see the run with the high cams around 150hp.
Anyway, with the SSAC, stock 20v cams and CAI the engine made about 150hp. Which is low. But thought that maybe the SSAC was killing power. Charles suggested to change the cams to N1s first as the squiggley was designed for a more aggressive cam. So while on the dyno I swapped the cams....
Exhaust cam in, about to drop in the intake cam in.
With Charles suggestion, I ran the cams in. About 20 secs of cranking, 10 mins at 2000 and 15 at 3000 IIRC.
Did another run. IIRC the power was basically the same....so maybe the SSAC really sucks.....is what I was praying for.
Decided to swap the squiggley in. It is a tight fit with the A/C in there....had to bend the low pressure line back a bit to get the No. 1 runner in to fit. The header uses up every inch of space available. It sits right up next to oil pan and crossmember. it is tight. Because of the big collector on the 4-1, the bottom runners do hang a little below the cross member, but this car isnt lowered at all so I'm not worried.
Bye bye SSAC
Hello squiggley!
Did a run....155hp....Charles helped diagnose what was wrong with the car....tried advancing timing, reducing timing, checked fuel pressure etc. His trained ear noticed something I didnt hear....knock knock knock. Packed it up for the day....on the way home I did hear the knocking however luckily I live close by so it didnt throw a rod yet. At idle I do not notice it, but 2000-3000 there is audible knock under load at least. At idle there isn't much to hear (at least for me)
So the engine was only making what it did was probably due to progressing rod knock over the dyno runs....
I'm thinking the mystery sound I had during the summer was probably the start of the rod knock.As disappointing that may sound, I was not too mad/upset. Although the end result was rod knock, but I did learn that the cam switching was fubar'd, and high cams sound awesome particularly with the squiggley =) so I have cool stuff to look forward to, can't wait to see what the car will really be like once its 100%. That is car guy life and I like it.
Charles is helping me out again and within a couple/few weeks time (I hope) this car will be back on the road. Can't wait to see what the 20v will really do with the squiggley and N1s
A big thanks to Charles!
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1,525 Posts
OK its back on the road again...sorta. I messed up one of the studs on the cat and it doesn't seal for shit. So I didn't really drive it except for a quick spurt down the street. Since I have the wiring un fubar'd the JWT ECU is actually switching the cams. I might send the ECU back to JWT for a reprogram anyway however. Bit more of a update later on...
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