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Discussion Starter · #61 · (Edited)
If you do this to your own car because you have to then you are a g20 guy....


Anyway, thats how it started. It makes more sense if the window is up and door is closed however. Anyway kinda shitty way to start.

I didn't take many photos coming out, but here is a pic sometime before noon Saturday. Background is the old 20v. Foreground is the replacement long block from Charles.



Decided that I should install a Oil Pressure gauge. So I bought an Autotech Motoring adapter for the oil pressure sensor port. It provides a male BSPT, female BSPT and 2 NPT ports. Made out of stainless, not a bad piece at all. You can see that silver thing is the sending unit for a VDO 150psi gauge.


It was about time to make this engine look the part, so I put on a fresh 20v valve cover. The center panel is from the old 20v's valve cover.


Motor going in...




Things I did.
-Squiggly went in much easier without the Alternator, radiator and crossmember installed. That's for sure.
-Welded some bar on the squiggly so it can use the exhaust hangers from the cat.
-Also cleaned out the iacv, changed the solenoid itself, but still it doesn't really idle with the a/c on.....Not sure exactly why.
-Drilled and tapped another hole on the manifold for the brake booster vacuum line. The 20v manifold one causes too much kinking in the line without having a comically long hose...
-Swapped back to the p10 crossmember. The front engine mount stays are damaged on this block anyway and I figured that the p10 one might fit better with the squiggly and yes there is a smidge more clearance on the p10 member. Stacked tolerances?? I dunno.
-Changed the passenger side steering rack boot/bellows. It was destroyed.
-Added the wiring for the VDO oil gauge.
-Removed the fuel vapor canister.
-Used a 3/4" dayco hose with a 90* in it for the heater hoses this time, works great.
-rewired the VVL solenoid so it actually has 12v power.
-reinstalled the quarter window I removed...:(

So I need to remove the cat and fix one of the studs. I totally destroyed it. I might try to remove the cat and drill through the flange and add a bolt instead.

Squiggley clearance.



I'm going to see if I can get the windshield changed this week as its not only cracked but also leaking too...
 

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seeing the word "stacked tolerances" and knowing I heard that term from my Father a few years ago. I would venture a guess that Charles manifested that comment?

More importantly. Congrats on the progress. way more than I get done. that is for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
seeing the word "stacked tolerances" and knowing I heard that term from my Father a few years ago. I would venture a guess that Charles manifested that comment?

More importantly. Congrats on the progress. way more than I get done. that is for sure.
Thanks.

Actually I had heard the term years ago from Dave Coleman.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
removing the quarter window is a pain in the ass
Yes, yes it is.

Windshield was replaced yesterday. Nice to have a non-leaking one, without cracks is nice too.

Also forgot to mention, I also replaced the PCV valve. The one I used was completely broken and the engine was sucking down oil through it. So the intake runners were a bit oily...smh
Minor detail but I changed the speedo gear to one for a 93/94 Sentra. As I am using Sentra sized tires, the speedo reads about 2mph more accurately now.

Did test drive it a bit more yesterday, but still didnt get to stretch its legs completely, but it does have power north of 6k unlike the old engine. Of course the VVL solenoid actually working does help lol
 

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Yes, yes it is.

Windshield was replaced yesterday. Nice to have a non-leaking one, without cracks is nice too.

Also forgot to mention, I also replaced the PCV valve. The one I used was completely broken and the engine was sucking down oil through it. So the intake runners were a bit oily...smh
Minor detail but I changed the speedo gear to one for a 93/94 Sentra. As I am using Sentra sized tires, the speedo reads about 2mph more accurately now.

Did test drive it a bit more yesterday, but still didnt get to stretch its legs completely, but it does have power north of 6k unlike the old engine. Of course the VVL solenoid actually working does help lol
lets gets some vids!
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Maybe when I get on the dyno again. At minimum, I want to fix the ginormous exhaust leak...I'm sure the O2 is reading lean because of it as the O2 is just in front of the cat. Picked up some springs from Charles today so I can install the last spring on the header.

I just knocked out the insert out of a rear xcross member mount so I can install Loren's polyurethane one, so I'll be doing that this Saturday.

I have a feeling though that while this engine is cool, I'll be wanting more. Which should motivate me to put my VET together for the other car. But it is a long road, I need to fix the P11 I dont talk about first, which also means I need to swap the engine in the black p10 as its engine is for the p11.

musical engines here we come!
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
So worked on the car a bit this weekend.

- Removed the cat and drilled out the broken stud and instead used a bolt.
- During the week, I removed the insert out of a broken cross member engine mount and installed one of Loren's polyurethane mounts. Since I had that ready, I went ahead and swapped that as well. The mount has made a huge difference in engine movement. I noticed a lot more vibrations in this install compared to the kh3 car though. I believe it is due to the fact the black car has a higher base idle set with the Nismotronic...I set the idle to 900rpm on that car.
- reconnected the uber cool VVL light in the dash :cheeky:
- Added some NISMO dress up items :) ...Oil filler cap and radiator cap.



I hope to find a NISMO grille one of these days and maybe one day I'll buy some NISMO wheels too. Make this the NISMO mobile lol

Over the weekend I made a few electronic purchases and bought a chip burner, some chips and obd2 ecu board from moates.net. I downloaded the JWT bin from this car's ecu then used tunerpro to make changes to the JWT program. I plan to burn the modified program on the moates board this way. I don't plan to modify the fuel maps, but I might modify the ignition table a bit...if I do I will change the low rpm high load of the map back to the DE timing (they have it less than DE timing). I will also need to dig up or buy a rpm switch for the VVL switching.

What I did change was the base idle to 900. Comparing a stock ECU to the JWT program, JWT seems to have all the idle stabilization off. I'm not sure why this is the case, but I decided to revert it back to DE settings. I am hoping this will cure the bouncy idle I have (usually appears when the engine has more load...ie A/C or defrost/headlights etc. I don't remember if I mentioned, but I did thoroughly clean the IACV and swapped solenoids when I swapped engines. So if the ecu is not the problem I need to figure out what is. I also modified the injector k value as the engine is running a higher psi than stock (due to the fuel pump) and I don't really want to shell out the money for adapters, ANs fittings and a FPR right now.

So hopefully in a couple weeks I will have the new ecu set up transferred over to one of the virgin ecus I have.

ECU related, I need to check the connections on the O2 sensor as now I have an intermittent O2 heater malfunction. The sensor itself is basically new as I used it for only a short time in the KH3 car before I went wideband in it. I had bought one of those universal bosch ones so I think that maybe one of the connections have come loose.

Also I might be able to dyno next weekend so we can see where I'm at :)
 

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Ryan,

GREAT thread man! How the hell did I miss this thread? Some really great info in here. Keep posting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 · (Edited)
so, yes I am alive. I did do a few things in the past month, but nothing major.

I did get all of my ecu chipping parts in to realize that I couldn't/didnt know how to chip a obd2 style ecu correctly. So I thought I would try out a jumper harness on a obd1 ecu. Well that didnt work. I had the basic board installed and all was good except that I didn't know or rather didn't read the instructions on the chip burning module. So I was burning chips but it was burning them at the incorrect address so those didn't work. Not knowing that was the problem initially I blamed the jumper harness and gave up. In the meantime I went on vacation for a bit in Japan and enjoyed myself. When i came back i found a OBD2 ecu that was ready for a Nistune board....I picked that up for $35. I did some studying and found out which jumper on the ECU needed to be swapped and plugged in my basic board into the nistune adapter harness. Somewhere in there I realized I had been burning the chips wrong so I have correctly burned chips in there now. So now I need to get a chance to swap the ecus and see if it works or not.

Installed a NISMO license plate frame


The frame comes with a bit of hardware and rubber parts to prevent rattling, which is nice.


Powder coated some stuff I plan on installing.



Right now, the battery is dead so i need to swap that out.
 

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I was recently at a 3 year old's birthday party and the word on the street is the snickersmobile is missing an engine cause some guy from Tacoma bought it.
What-What!!?

Ryan - The parts look great! I'm looking forward to checking out your car next time I'm up that way. Let us know how the ECU you burned works out?

I've also been doing alot of work on mine as of late.. seems to be going around. =)
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
I was recently at a 3 year old's birthday party and the word on the street is the snickersmobile is missing an engine cause some guy from Tacoma bought it.
:shifty: uh...I heard that it also doesnt have an exhaust either as it went to someone in AZ. I think Jon. Can't remember exactly.

What-What!!?

Ryan - The parts look great! I'm looking forward to checking out your car next time I'm up that way. Let us know how the ECU you burned works out?

I've also been doing alot of work on mine as of late.. seems to be going around. =)
Thanks, Kyle! I was actually hoping the color would be a brighter red, but it'll look good I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Its tight but a Nismo strut bar will clear a 20v.


I had to make some adjustments on the throttle cable bracket and adjust the CAI angle a bit....but other wise it clears the engine.

Tried out the ECU, some issues. I'm not sure it is just not compatible with the basic board or if there are other issues. I didn't have enough time to take a lot of time on it other than plug it in and noticed it had some problems.

Decided against the VC install for the moment. I will dirll out the baffle make sure its free of media or "sand"
Drove it home for the 1st time in about a month. Since the weather turned colder I swapped the tires from the Summer tires back to a set of stock wheels with all seasons. Changed the battery as it died.
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
So after being with the P11 meshies for a while, I really didnt like the oem p10 much anymore. I happened across a set of Spec V Nismo wheels for sale. Helps out with the Nismo motif of the car so I was excited to find a set. I dunno if I like it or not though.



I think it needs more low for it to look good and maybe more tire. Nice thing about this tire size (205/40-17) no issues of rubbing the rear spring perch.
 
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