P10 Advice needed bang for buck DD, Track Car

3170 Views 25 Replies 8 Participants Last post by Island_racer, Aug 2, 2013

Island_racer

Discussion Starter · Jul 27, 2013

Hi Guys I have decided to try and build a dual purpose DD and track car (races are no longer that 10 - 12 laps). Now the challenge is that where I am from the exchange rate between my currency and the USD is over 100 to 1 USD :zoinks:. So it is important that I purchase the right parts at the right time to build a strong base.

Car:
Primera P10 with a SR20, auto trans, 4 wheel disk brake. Needs body work, painting, suspension and the interior needs fixing.

After getting the car mechanically sound I was planning to upgrade the following (here is where I need the advice):

1. Brakes:
Upgrade the brakes maybe use a 300Z brake rotors and calipers (please advise if there is a better option new)

2. Upgrade the suspension:
I was wondering the Spring/shock combo to use taking in mind that I need the handling for the track (I guess I can start with one setup and upgrade later) to make sure I have some money for bushings and front end parts.

I know that the bushings on this car is crap and have to be changed so I was wondering if I should change to the energy suspension bushings at this point and do they squeak?

I saw one of the members here selling adjustable LCA he fabricated and they look good should I wait and focus elsewhere?

I will not be racing until I get a 5speed LSD box. While all of this is going on I will start looking for the VVL :teeth:.

Thanks

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

DMSentra

· #2 · Jul 27, 2013

Dirt or asphalt track? Circle or road course? How serious are you wanting to compete? To what level are you wanting to eventually end up competitiveness wise?

1. 300Z on the front and P11 brakes on the rear would certainly be a simple, effective and cheap way to get started upgrading the brakes, and all are oem parts and bolt on almost.

The rest of the post really can't be addressed very well until the first line of my post is known. Of course you can get any coil-over setup and stiffer bushings and it'll be a big help though.

Island_racer

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jul 28, 2013

DMSentra said:
Dirt or asphalt track? Circle or road course? How serious are you wanting to compete? To what level are you wanting to eventually end up competitiveness wise?

1. 300Z on the front and P11 brakes on the rear would certainly be a simple, effective and cheap way to get started upgrading the brakes, and all are oem parts and bolt on almost.

The rest of the post really can't be addressed very well until the first line of my post is known. Of course you can get any coil-over setup and stiffer bushings and it'll be a big help though.

It is an asphalt track, road course and has a lot of elevation changes and some tight corners. The first level doesn't require a cage but the next class up requires a cage (I guess it who be like the lower SCCA classes). After that it starts to get serious (shedding weight and racing tires. I would just stop at the second level for now because it is still a DD, but there are some serious cars in that class also.

I hope that helps

Chris

· #4 · Jul 28, 2013

For 5.5 years we raced our former p10 and we never needed more than p11 front brakes with DTC60 brake pads. This cheap upgrade was more than sufficient for up to 45 minute races. I can't imagine you would need anything more for 10 to 12 lap races!

I would focus on an adjustable coilover suspension so you can set it for full hard while racing and full soft while daily driving for the best compromise of a dual purpose car.

The next thing is a good set of tires that are dual purpose such as the Hankook RS3 or Direzza Star Spec. We found 225 45 15 in front with 205 50 15 to work best for us.

...and of course concentrate on your skills as a driver because that will go a long way!

o2G2o

· #5 · Jul 28, 2013

For coilovers I'd recommend Tein SS, and upgrade to stiffer springs. I've beaten the living crap out of mine (on P11) for 7 years and they still ride smooth as butter on bad roads, but I don't think the "default" springs would be stiff enough for road racing. Come to think of it, I'm not 100% sure Tein offers coilovers for P10 - do they?

Island_racer

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jul 29, 2013

Thanks for your responses. Ok so I feel comfortable with the brakes solution and I will start the hunt for some coilovers.

The next thing is since I will more than likely need to change the front end bushings based on the first look at the car I was just going to order some performance ones. Chris was your P10 using a bushing kit?

Also when I started to look back at Nissan for this project I was looking at the B14 sentras but I realised that they had a challenge with the rear due to the negative toe in and some racers mentioned that they had to bend the solid axel to get the car to rotate properly in the corners. Do you know if the P10 have that problem?

DMSentra

· #7 · Jul 29, 2013

P10 has adjustable toe-in.

Chris

· #8 · Jul 29, 2013

Island_racer said:
Chris was your P10 using a bushing kit?

Also when I started to look back at Nissan for this project I was looking at the B14 sentras but I realised that they had a challenge with the rear due to the negative toe in and some racers mentioned that they had to bend the solid axel to get the car to rotate properly in the corners. Do you know if the P10 have that problem?

Yes, we had used the SuperPro bushings in the front control arms. We also used our own custom solid motor mounts (not what I'd recommend for a daily driver but the polyurathane motor mounts would be good to use IMHO)

There is no issues at all with rear suspension with the P10.

We have a b14 (with beam) right now but it has already had the beam bent to get 0 toe so it also isn't an issue now (car actually drives a lot like our G20 did, just shorter wheel base, better trans gearing, and slightly different steering ratio takes some adjusting to)

Snickers

· #9 · Jul 29, 2013

I think most of the DD vs track use depends more on what you can live with day to day. J0n (cavern) daily'd his p10 for years and also tracks the crap out of it. Full interior, p11 brakes, 16" wheels VE etc. you can have a nice daily as a track beater just as long a you don't cut corners on reliability.

Before you gut the car, get better as a driver first to where the car is more the limit.

Good suspension, tires, brakes, seat and harness goes a long way before needing more power

cavern

· #10 · Jul 29, 2013

Snickers said:
I think most of the DD vs track use depends more on what you can live with day to day. J0n (cavern) daily'd his p10 for years and also tracks the crap out of it. Full interior, p11 brakes, 16" wheels VE etc. you can have a nice daily as a track beater just as long a you don't cut corners on reliability.

Before you gut the car, get better as a driver first to where the car is more the limit.

Good suspension, tires, brakes, seat and harness goes a long way before needing more power

Charles is 100% correct, its all how much you are willing to deal with while still driving it around on the street. I agree with what Chris and Charles said, start with brakes and pads, then hit the track, you'd be surprised how well the car turns and moves stock, get used to how the car feels, how neutral it can be under braking, etc. Then slowly fine tune the car to your liking, suspension, engine mods, etc.

My car is 100% streetable as well as 100% trackable, all I do is bolt in my harness bar, swap brake pads and I'm on my way (if your running SCCA or NASA, you also need a real track seat FYI, and Schroth belts don't pass NASA tech any more due to rule changes

).

If you want an idea of a good mix, here is my car: http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread...hite-Wonder-(Also-referred-to-as-the-L33TG20)

Also some videos from a few years ago, all full interior too.

http://vimeo.com/8943434#t=5m0s

http://vimeo.com/8938558#t=3m0s

http://vimeo.com/10146454#=4m44s

See less See more

Chris

· #11 · Jul 29, 2013

^ Schroth also makes FIA 3" 5 and 6 point belts that still pass both NASA and SCCA tech keep in mind

....and we have FIA 5 year rated SCHROTH Pull-Up belts in our B14 now btw:

See less See more

cavern

· #12 · Jul 29, 2013

Chris said:
^ Schroth also makes FIA 3" 5 and 6 point belts that still pass both NASA and SCCA tech keep in mind ....and we have FIA 5 year rated SCHROTH Pull-Up belts in our B14 now btw:

I'm referring to the 4 point "cheap" belts that they used to allow that bolted up to the rear seat, those are still floating everywhere.

Boostlee

· #13 · Jul 29, 2013

..........4 pt anything shouldn't be allowed in any track (or street car for that matter) anyways as the lack of submarine prevention is quite dangerous.

I also agree with cavern, Snickers and Chris. The stock brakes are one thing you will be surprised with how capable they are with a simple setup as proper pad compound and simple brake ducts

cavern

· #14 · Jul 29, 2013

Boostlee said:
..........4 pt anything shouldn't be allowed in any track (or street car for that matter) anyways as the lack of submarine prevention is quite dangerous.

Yeah, NASA allowed them up until around 2010-2011, then removed it from the CCR's because too many people were having injuries with them.

Island_racer

Discussion Starter · #15 · Jul 30, 2013

cavern said:
Yeah, NASA allowed them up until around 2010-2011, then removed it from the CCR's because too many people were having injuries with them.

Thanks for the great information guys and I am in agreement with the recommendations.

I have not finalised the P10 purchase as the guy was out of town so I am still looking at three cars:
1. 1993 SE-R (SR20 beaten up but chassis looks ok, 5 speed box but problem with fifth gear)
2. 1994 P10 ( SR20 auto and needs work)
3. 1996 200SX/Lucino (JDM) SR18 the spare tyre wheel well was worked on maybe an accident (also I don't have the capability to bend the rear beam here).

Which one would you guys lean to based on racing experience?

Cavern, Real nice car it looks like it stays nice and flat through the corners.

Ajaxx1989

· #16 · Jul 30, 2013

p10

Chris

· #17 · Jul 30, 2013

I would get the one that is in the nicest shape, drives the nicest.

Here is what to consider:

- The b13 is a well proven good track car and is lighter than the p10.
- The p10 is a great track car with superior to b13/b14 front suspension but you will have to convert to manual if you buy the automatic
- The b14 would be the last on my list if I were in your position because of the rear beam and track toe issues until you get the beam bent to 0 toe.

If it was me, I would have a tough decision between the b13 and p10 so I would make my decision based on which one I enjoyed driving more along with which 1 is in better shape. Since you also want to daily drive it, the p10 will be leaps and bounds better than the 'tin can' of a b13 (just how it is). ...BUT only you can decide so please test drive them and decide for yourself which you like best and let us know what you decide.

Island_racer

Discussion Starter · #18 · Jul 31, 2013

Chris said:
I would get the one that is in the nicest shape, drives the nicest.

Here is what to consider:

- The b13 is a well proven good track car and is lighter than the p10.
- The p10 is a great track car with superior to b13/b14 front suspension but you will have to convert to manual if you buy the automatic
- The b14 would be the last on my list if I were in your position because of the rear beam and track toe issues until you get the beam bent to 0 toe.

If it was me, I would have a tough decision between the b13 and p10 so I would make my decision based on which one I enjoyed driving more along with which 1 is in better shape. Since you also want to daily drive it, the p10 will be leaps and bounds better than the 'tin can' of a b13 (just how it is). ...BUT only you can decide so please test drive them and decide for yourself which you like best and let us know what you decide.

Thanks for the input again guys. I love the SE-R as I used to own one when I was younger and I love the shape but when I put it on the lift today I confirmed that the chassis is good but the rest will have to be junked. Down to the power steering and AC has stopped working and he is sticking to his price a $1000.00 USD more than the P10. So I will get the P10 on the lift tomorrow.

Also has anyone order a replacement carpet for the P10? If so can you point me in the right direction as I can find the sentra one on JCWhitney site but not the G20. I am going to completely redo the interior as soon as I get it and start to clean it up.

Chris

· #19 · Jul 31, 2013

I am unaware of any place that sells replacement carpet for the p10. I've been salvaging carpets in good shape myself from the p10s and reselling them. I actually have 2 black carpets right now. I'd highly recommend you check with local yards to see if you can salvage one in better shape from a junked car. gluck

Island_racer

Discussion Starter · #20 · Jul 31, 2013

Chris said:
I am unaware of any place that sells replacement carpet for the p10. I've been salvaging carpets in good shape myself from the p10s and reselling them. I actually have 2 black carpets right now. I'd highly recommend you check with local yards to see if you can salvage one in better shape from a junked car. gluck

Thanks Chris, I will check my local yard but I dont think I will find any. If not I might PM you regarding one of yours. Also do any of the P10's over there come with the eGT style front and rear bumper and side skirts like in England? I was trying to upload a photo but had some problems.

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

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