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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I know I'm really, really late to the game with VE swaps in a P10 - but since I made a wiring diagram for myself while working on the MSS wiring for my SR20VE project over the Christmas break, I thought I'd share incase anyone else needs this in the future:

UPDATE: LOOK FOR NEW REV 1.2 OF THIS DIAGRAM, BELOW...
Product Rectangle Slope Font Schematic
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Oh yea, to explain:

All of the wires going up to the instrument cluster attach with thru-hole eyelet connectors to screwpoints on the back of the panel. Those screwpoints are tied to the pins that I call out in the Greddy Wire Key. No soldering or wiresplicing is needed.

Also, you'll see there's three make/break weatherpack connectors. This makes it so you can disconnect the instrument cluster from the MSS, disconnect the MMS from the relay box wire harness, and disconnect the engine from the relay box.

This implementation assumes no current draw across the relays while the ignition is off, which is why I source positive voltage for the relay box directly from battery. I also want to keep that positive wire run length as short as possible between the battery and relay box since the fuse is integrated inside that box (safety issue). Also, the solenoids are grounded to the engine so make sure you have a good ground between the engine and the chassis/body.

And lastly, the implementation also assumes that the polarity of the wires coming off the VVL solenoids is not significant. This is noteworthy because this design uses the solenoids in what would be considered 'reverse' of the actual Nissan VE implementation. If anyone knows this to be an incorrect assumption, please follow up with a reply.

Oh yea one more thing: I went to the trouble of running signals lines back to instrument cluster because a) it's cool to have a visual VVL trigger indicator, and b) it's a good debugging tool. Note that those signals are coming not from the 'input' side of the relay, but from the output side - which means they are showing what the solenoids are actually doing - not what they are being 'commanded' to do. This is important because it will catch the condition where a relay welds itself open, which would then cause the solenoids to be stuck open. Without the VVl feedback indicator, this condition may not be detected if it happens. And yes, I have had a 'normally closed' automotive relay weld itself into a 'normally open' condition, and depending upon what the relay controls, could be a dangerous situation.

thanks
Philip
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh and crap, one more thing. I'm choosing to run the intake and exhaust cams independently because the MSS supports two RPM windows so I figured I should take advantage of that. Not sure it's going to make a power difference, but when I eventually get this engine up and running and on the dyno again, I'll see what power gains can be had with adjustment.

Does anyone want to offer up their secret VLL intake/exhaust actuation window RPM values for me to start with? The advantage to being so late in the game is that there should be plenty of folks who have already determined the optimum values for these parameters. If it matters, I'm running a 2.3" full Fujitsubo header/exhaust system (yeah I don't like noise :cautious:)
 

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That is an awesome write up. I like the idea of the activation indicator. I may have to add that in some time. It’s been sooo long since I’ve cracked the VVL in my P10 I can’t even remember what I have my activations set at, I believe it was 4.7 and 4.9k.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Dane. I'm still needing to translate all of that into an actual wire harness, and I need to mod the warning/status indicator panel to open up a spot for the VVL activation light. I want to silhouette "VVL" like the other lamps ("brake", etc) so it will look like a factory feature.
For the activation windows, which cam triggers first?

Thanks
Philip
 

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Thanks Dane. I'm still needing to translate all of that into an actual wire harness, and I need to mod the warning/status indicator panel to open up a spot for the VVL activation light. I want to silhouette "VVL" like the other lamps ("brake", etc) so it will look like a factory feature.
For the activation windows, which cam triggers first?

Thanks
Philip
I want to say the exhaust first but it’s been so long. I looked at others dyno charts and then calibrated with the butt dyno. It’s been a year or two since mine ran due Rod knock. I need to get another VE.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My efforts to translate the diagram into an actual wireharness allowed me to discover a couple of issues that I hadn't correctly represented in 'rev 1' of the VVL / Greddy MSS wiring diagram for a P10/G20. I'm posting a followup rev 1.1b with some improvements:
1) I wanted the illuminated VVL indicator to be dimmable with the rest of the instrument cluster
2) Cleaned up the VVL valve connection for proper isolation through a 3-pin connector; which is the only connector in the whole harness that needs to be unplugged for engine-removal:
Rectangle Schematic Font Parallel Slope


See attached .PDF
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Dang, I should have waited to post the diagram until after I had tried to actually implement it. I ended up being able to take one of the connectors out of the harness, which cleaned up the main connector coming out of the MSS box. I've got this mostly done in my car now and shouldn't need to make any more adjustments to the diagram (I hope). See updated attachment for rev1.2 of the .pdf file:

Product Rectangle Font Line Schematic
 

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