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P11 Bushings and mounts

67K views 125 replies 39 participants last post by  Ayyrock 
#1 · (Edited)
Since P10 had their thread. I am making P11 thread.
There is probably more bushing parts. Please post what you know

Energy Suspension - Add R=Red or G=Black at the end of each part number

Shifter Bushing - 7.1109
Strut Bushing (Top hats) - 9.8146
Front Sway bar bushing 20mm 9.5124 (Need to enlarge the holes on mount so the bolts can go thru)
Endlink bushing - 9.8105 (How to mod the endlink bushing)

Rack bushing - 7.10103 (Need to modify the driver side. make the inner rim/diameter of the bushing more round) First to test. it works.
Rear Trailing Arm Bushing - 7.3120

For the front Lower Control Arm Bushing:
Energy suspension 7.3111 again add G for black R for red (this is a set of bushings only use the front)

SuperPro Rear axle pivot bushing - SPF1942K (Alternative to the ES Rear Trailing Arm bushing) Uber how to

Prothane Motor mount (front and rear) - 14-504
(More info here)

QT Adjustable link:
More about it here


UNISA JECS
P10/P11 Delrin Upper Strut Mount Bushings

P11 Lower Control Arm Aluminum/Delrin Rear Bushing


Cusco Upper Arm -10mm: (Not a bushing but part of the suspension)
256 479 A
 
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#2 ·
Prothane 14-502 works for the front and rear motor mounts as well, with some trimming (in case there's a significant price difference, or trouble locating 14-504).

Rear Trailing Arm Bushing:
Energy Suspension 7.3120 G/R

Complete Rear Suspension Bushing upgrade:
NISMO B15 Hard Bushing Set, Part 55000-RRB50 (if you can find it; also comes with LCAs which you can probably sell on B15sentra.net)
 
#5 · (Edited)
what about the QT adjustable link from b15AZN? thats a bushing right?

. FYI the bushings self on QT is rating at 75, stock 35:naughty:
 
#18 ·
Subscribed.
 
#26 ·
Eliminating all factory rubber in all places in the front end will help eliminate wheel hop, from the upper strut mount bushings to the lower control arm bushings and sway bar bushings and motor mount and tranny mount bushings.

The rack bushings help with steering responce and feel if yours are really worn out bad, they wouldn't really aide at all in eliminating wheel hop but a very worthwhile mod especially if yoru rack bushings are gone.
 
#32 ·
I dunno boss never used them and I never would since I can make some stiffer than those. Your probaly right though it most def sounds like a UCA bushing.

I've had 3 sets of upper control arms that I have tested and in every single case its the plastic bushing/bearing insert that wears down alot and is responsible for the play. There very easy to take apart and inspect, I could just about tell you in some cases just from a pic if they are worn.
 
#34 ·
what about the plastic strut mount bearing? pop your hood and have someone turn the wheel all the way to the right and left. The strut mount bolts should not move one tiny bit..if not than... blown. those clunk bad and infrequently

BTW i bought the ebay china control arms for a maxima. The arm itself was ok and id use it if mine were bent or rusted but the ball joint they gave me was laughable.
 
#36 ·
Hi, I need bushings for my lower control arms, both sides. Will the kit mentioned from ES work and fit well? What i mean is this info: For the front Lower Control Arm Bushing -
Energy suspension 7.3111. Did anybody replace the lower control arm bushings this kit?

Thanks
 
#38 ·
When people talk about UCA they are talking about the upper arm right? Well I'm on a hunt to find polyurathane bushings for my upper arms if there are any? Anyone?

I remember there being a bushing replacement for the upper arms from the uk but I think those are just oem replacement ones as the dealer doesn't just sell the bushings for these.

In regards to motor mounts fellow SOG just check on everythingg20.com

U changed all 4 of my motor mounts a year ago and it cost me around 300$ with my discount at the dealer for the parts. I installed on my own
 
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