12
Installation
There are modifications and ways to install the aftermarket bushings I recommend that should give you a bit more piece of mind that the front lower control arm will hold up and function properly. Pressing the old bushings out and pressing new ones in is pretty self explainatory, if you don't understand how this is done, I recommend you do some research and watch some videos on Youtube before attempting to do this on your own. Or pay a shop to do this portion for you. Let's begin with the front lower control arm reward bushing.
PART 1
It does not matter whether you press in the SuperPro bushing from the back or the front of the bracket, the most important part is that the bushing sits flush in the bracket cylinder, and the direction of the bushings is correct when seated in the bracket.
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The front lower control arm reward bushing needs to be pressed into each bracket the correct way. The picture above shows each bracket and is marked with tape to show it's orientation when installed on the car, I recommend you line up everything like I have pictured before pressing the SuperPro bushings in. Rotation of each bracket DOES matter, you will also notce that a portion of the cylinder on each bracket slightly hangs over and one portion of the cylinder sits flush. If you are having someone else press in the bushings for you, I recommend marking them with tape like I have so that they do not press the bushing in backwards. The (bottom) of the cylinders in the pictures above are the portion that sits flat (rear) and the portion of the cylinder that hangs over (top) will face the same portion of the bushing that says front. See pictures below to understand this concept better.
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See the image below, and how the cylinder lip slightly hangs over.
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Part 2
Next we will move onto installing the Nolathane or Energy Suspension front lower control arm front bushing. IF YOU USE THE NOLATHANES YOU WILL NOT HAVE AN ISSUE THAT I'M ABOUT TO DESCRIBE I EXPERIENCED WITH THE ENERGY SUSPENSION MAXIMA KIT. Just simply get a torch and burn the old bushings out until they fall out. Then press the Nolathanes in by hand. Its that easy. LUBE THEM WELL or they will bind and make noise.
The issue with this (ES) bushing is that people claim they need to constantly tighten it down (At least, I've heard this complaint before, so I inspected them prior to installing and here is what I was able to find). The reason this happens is because there is a guide (sleeve) that runs in-between and through the 2 urethane bushings, two large washers are used on the outside of the bushings and the assembly is then locked down with a large nut. The problem people are having is that our cylinder on the control arm itself that holds the bushings is a tad bit too wide, so the guide (sleeve) that runs through the urethane bushings themselves is floating between the two washers and the outside of the lip of the Energy Suspension bushings take on the load when you torque down the bolt. I took some simple measurements and found that with shaving off 1/16" to 3/16" of an inch off the control arm cylinder itself gives us just enough clearance for the bushing guide (sleeve) and washers to take the load of the torque of the nut, effectively locking down the assembly without any lateral movement. My pictures below speak for themselves, but should help to give you a better understanding.
![]()
Above is our measurement of the length of the stock setup (the stock rubber bushing was shaved down so you could have this visual, about 31/16")
![]()
The new guide (sleeve) and washer setup above (we have more than enough thread to achieve stock recommended torque when locked down.)
![]()
Above you will notice there is a slight gap in between, this is ok, they are engineered this way.
![]()
The gap above tells us we need to achieve a 1/16" to 3/16" inbetween the bushings when pressed in. Keep in mind, when the bushing is pressed in, it is going to expand, giving us an estimated 1/16" to 3/16" on the ends of the bushing which will sit between the washers when locked down, it is enough for the guide (sleeve) in-between the washers to slightly float, thus our assembly never fully gets locked down. I have a solution...
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Get to grinding, you are ONLY removing small amounts of material from the control arm cylinder here. No need to go past 2/16". You can always take your control arm off to remove more later, but if you remove too much, the guide (sleeve) will have play between the washers and ends of the bushings. So take your time with this, no overkill needed here.
![]()
The before width of the control arm cylinder to the left (above), after grinding to the right. You can see this is a very very small amount, but after carefull measurements and reading about other forum members' pain in past threads, I can assure you this will work perfectly.
![]()
Above is the gap between the bushings on the shaved cylinder, I know what you're going to say, that gap appears to be much less than in the picture above on the brackets. True, but when the guide (sleeve) is inserted in between the bushings, and the washers are on the end you will notice that you have a very small gap between the guide (sleeve) and the washers. This is because the bushing has EXPANDED. Don't sweat this, when the nut is locked down you will have a perfect clap between the washers and the guide (sleeve), the bushings will not be taking any of the load of the torque, and the nut should not loosen on you. You will also notice that you should have no lateral movement when the assembly is locked down, which should also save you from headaches of premature binding.
Part 3
Pressing out the old ball joints and pressing the new one's in didn't deserve much explanation. I whack the old ones out AFTER I remove the retaining clip that holds them in, with a large hammer. Its very simple installing, just make sure you put your new c-claps on the ball joints when the new ones are pressed in, and grease them well, the Moog's have a grease fitting and can be serviced! Don't leave them hanging dry.
There are modifications and ways to install the aftermarket bushings I recommend that should give you a bit more piece of mind that the front lower control arm will hold up and function properly. Pressing the old bushings out and pressing new ones in is pretty self explainatory, if you don't understand how this is done, I recommend you do some research and watch some videos on Youtube before attempting to do this on your own. Or pay a shop to do this portion for you. Let's begin with the front lower control arm reward bushing.
PART 1
It does not matter whether you press in the SuperPro bushing from the back or the front of the bracket, the most important part is that the bushing sits flush in the bracket cylinder, and the direction of the bushings is correct when seated in the bracket.
The front lower control arm reward bushing needs to be pressed into each bracket the correct way. The picture above shows each bracket and is marked with tape to show it's orientation when installed on the car, I recommend you line up everything like I have pictured before pressing the SuperPro bushings in. Rotation of each bracket DOES matter, you will also notce that a portion of the cylinder on each bracket slightly hangs over and one portion of the cylinder sits flush. If you are having someone else press in the bushings for you, I recommend marking them with tape like I have so that they do not press the bushing in backwards. The (bottom) of the cylinders in the pictures above are the portion that sits flat (rear) and the portion of the cylinder that hangs over (top) will face the same portion of the bushing that says front. See pictures below to understand this concept better.
See the image below, and how the cylinder lip slightly hangs over.
Part 2
Next we will move onto installing the Nolathane or Energy Suspension front lower control arm front bushing. IF YOU USE THE NOLATHANES YOU WILL NOT HAVE AN ISSUE THAT I'M ABOUT TO DESCRIBE I EXPERIENCED WITH THE ENERGY SUSPENSION MAXIMA KIT. Just simply get a torch and burn the old bushings out until they fall out. Then press the Nolathanes in by hand. Its that easy. LUBE THEM WELL or they will bind and make noise.
The issue with this (ES) bushing is that people claim they need to constantly tighten it down (At least, I've heard this complaint before, so I inspected them prior to installing and here is what I was able to find). The reason this happens is because there is a guide (sleeve) that runs in-between and through the 2 urethane bushings, two large washers are used on the outside of the bushings and the assembly is then locked down with a large nut. The problem people are having is that our cylinder on the control arm itself that holds the bushings is a tad bit too wide, so the guide (sleeve) that runs through the urethane bushings themselves is floating between the two washers and the outside of the lip of the Energy Suspension bushings take on the load when you torque down the bolt. I took some simple measurements and found that with shaving off 1/16" to 3/16" of an inch off the control arm cylinder itself gives us just enough clearance for the bushing guide (sleeve) and washers to take the load of the torque of the nut, effectively locking down the assembly without any lateral movement. My pictures below speak for themselves, but should help to give you a better understanding.
Above is our measurement of the length of the stock setup (the stock rubber bushing was shaved down so you could have this visual, about 31/16")
The new guide (sleeve) and washer setup above (we have more than enough thread to achieve stock recommended torque when locked down.)
Above you will notice there is a slight gap in between, this is ok, they are engineered this way.
The gap above tells us we need to achieve a 1/16" to 3/16" inbetween the bushings when pressed in. Keep in mind, when the bushing is pressed in, it is going to expand, giving us an estimated 1/16" to 3/16" on the ends of the bushing which will sit between the washers when locked down, it is enough for the guide (sleeve) in-between the washers to slightly float, thus our assembly never fully gets locked down. I have a solution...
Get to grinding, you are ONLY removing small amounts of material from the control arm cylinder here. No need to go past 2/16". You can always take your control arm off to remove more later, but if you remove too much, the guide (sleeve) will have play between the washers and ends of the bushings. So take your time with this, no overkill needed here.
The before width of the control arm cylinder to the left (above), after grinding to the right. You can see this is a very very small amount, but after carefull measurements and reading about other forum members' pain in past threads, I can assure you this will work perfectly.
Above is the gap between the bushings on the shaved cylinder, I know what you're going to say, that gap appears to be much less than in the picture above on the brackets. True, but when the guide (sleeve) is inserted in between the bushings, and the washers are on the end you will notice that you have a very small gap between the guide (sleeve) and the washers. This is because the bushing has EXPANDED. Don't sweat this, when the nut is locked down you will have a perfect clap between the washers and the guide (sleeve), the bushings will not be taking any of the load of the torque, and the nut should not loosen on you. You will also notice that you should have no lateral movement when the assembly is locked down, which should also save you from headaches of premature binding.
Part 3
Pressing out the old ball joints and pressing the new one's in didn't deserve much explanation. I whack the old ones out AFTER I remove the retaining clip that holds them in, with a large hammer. Its very simple installing, just make sure you put your new c-claps on the ball joints when the new ones are pressed in, and grease them well, the Moog's have a grease fitting and can be serviced! Don't leave them hanging dry.
