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Ryan (Sentra Champloo)



I'm literally about to open up the rear of my p11 to install the 5lug hub/bearing, along with installing this bracket so I can install the bigger rotors.

Is there a reason why my kit has 2 of the smaller bolts, while others (like the one above) have 4 of the smaller bolts? Is that the difference between a p10 and a p11 kit or something?

Ultimately my question is: So I just have only one of the smaller bolts per side?? In the picture for Alex Nelsons above kit it appears to be 2 small bolts per side + 2 big bolts per side, thus filling the four holes for each bracket. I'm just really confused here. Any insight would be much appreciated as I'm about to go in on the rear axles - right now. I apologize if this is a dumb question.

My kit for reference:


Images I've been studying to try and decipher this setup:

 

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Charlie, thanks for the prompt PMs. I should provide an update after my previous post. So far, I've installed the rear caliper adapter, 5lug hub, new rotor, and 5 lug wheel onto the driver's side rear.
I gotta get the passenger rear done tomorrow morning. Would the stock torque member (caliper bracket) bolts I displaced with the long ones the rear bracket comes with be okay to use for mounting the adapter bracket on the other side? If not, let me know the size of the lock washer and bolt - I'll nap and run to the hardware store first thing in the morning.

These are the displaced bolts I mentioned - any reason these wouldn't be okay?


Anyway, a few pics of the progress. I hope these visuals help others with their installs:


Did I assemble correctly? Bolt - washer - bracket - spacer - caliper bracket



Edit: forgot to mention how happy I am with the quality of the rear bracket and how precisely it is made. If you do the install, you'll see what I mean - it lines up with such precision, its like a 'better than oem fit.' This means you'll have to be perfect with your reassembly, but its a real blessing to have an enthusiast in the community producing custom parts for us. Rare and much appreciated. Looking forward to trying your other pieces down the road Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter #25
In all actuality there is really only a requirement for one shaved bolt head per side (but to avoid confusion I made them all shaved) and it is used under the portion of the torque memberthat crosses right above that bolt so your ok with what you did and sorry must of had a brain fart and didn't package the two other shaved bolts but the stock ones will also work just the same.

Make sure you used the shaved bolt here is a picture showing where its needed and you can see how the opposide end doesn't need it so use one shaved bolt per side and make sure to grind off the metal stamped numbers flat for clearance basically make sure you can see daylight between the bolt head and torque member bracket, its important.



Here's how it was originally intended to be used re using one of the stock bolts, this was on Project Cono's P11

 

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I'm going to try the stock bolts on the passenger rear side and perhaps shaving those metal stamped numbers. I've got a metal file on hand, hope that does it. If not whats an ideal tool for grinding it down? Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I'm going to try the stock bolts on the passenger rear side and perhaps shaving those metal stamped numbers. I've got a metal file on hand, hope that does it. If not whats an ideal tool for grinding it down? Thanks again
You have to use a shaved bolt under the torque member and the other bolt can be the stock one just like the second picture above and just a die grinder it just a tiny amount thats need to be done and I believe only one side will actually end up needing it done. I saw in one of your picture above you used both stock bolts to bolt the bracket to the spindle/beam that's not correct, thats gonna cause interference and be problematic.

Use them like this

 

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Oh goodness
Are you referring to the bolt circled here? I can confirm that both of those are the long bolts you provided - not the stock bolts. Good looking out man, I'll share additional pictures below if you spot anything unsafe!


Below: Two shaved bolts used initially before torquing them. Will switch to stock on upper and shaved on lower

Below: Pads placed with caliper over them
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
Long bolts are used in the through holes with the stand-offs (spacers)

Shaved short bolts are used in the threaded holes on the brackets and in your case use one shaved short bold on the low end on both sides and a stock oem bolt on the top side

*just like the picture I provided with the text explaining you can't go wrong

Here added even more instruction to the above pic this should do it lmk.



 

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Following up here - I finished up the rear on Monday. Going to do the 5lug conversion and A34 Maxima brakes on the front this weekend...
Real happy with the rear brackets


 

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Discussion Starter #31
Can't tell quite that much from the pic but looks like your contact patch of the pad and rotor are not "full" width of the pad, this occurs when the caliper piston "pins" aren't aligned correctly against the pad "recess" area in the back and or the torque member is making contact with a bolt causing the caliper to sit "cambered" just verify to make sure I can only see a light outward diameter "shininess" that apears to be the contact area and since its a new rotor and pad its very light right now until you get more wear.

P.S. I've seen this a hand full of times with the screw in type rear piston calipers wear the pads looks like its got 5 degree of camber wear on it after time.
 

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Can't tell quite that much from the pic but looks like your contact patch of the pad and rotor are not "full" width of the pad, this occurs when the caliper piston "pins" aren't aligned correctly against the pad "recess" area in the back and or the torque member is making contact with a bolt causing the caliper to sit "cambered" just verify to make sure I can only see a light outward diameter "shininess" that apears to be the contact area and since its a new rotor and pad its very light right now until you get more wear.

P.S. I've seen this a hand full of times with the screw in type rear piston calipers wear the pads looks like its got 5 degree of camber wear on it after time.
Right on right on Charlie - Let me try to verbally describe what I'm sure of for the rear. If based upon that description, you still think there is an issue, I'll open the rears back up. But I can confirm that:

-I rotated the rear caliper pistons clockwise, and made sure to leave it so a notch was centered in the bottom (see FSM screenshot below)
-I also ensured that for the inner pad on both sides, the little nub on the pad face fit into the notch of the caliper piston.
-In addition, I used the stock bolt to mount the caliper bracket to the top of your adapter, with the shaved bolt at the bottom like you had explained (I was able to see daylight between the bracket and shaved bolt head)
-Additionally, on the passenger side rear, I shaved down the raised metal numbers on the inside of the caliper bracket with a metal file so there was daylight between the shaved bolt head and the bracket itself.



Based on my description, do you think I'm straight bro?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Right on right on Charlie - Let me try to verbally describe what I'm sure of for the rear. If based upon that description, you still think there is an issue, I'll open the rears back up. But I can confirm that:

-I rotated the rear caliper pistons clockwise, and made sure to leave it so a notch was centered in the bottom (see FSM screenshot below)
-I also ensured that for the inner pad on both sides, the little nub on the pad face fit into the notch of the caliper piston.
-In addition, I used the stock bolt to mount the caliper bracket to the top of your adapter, with the shaved bolt at the bottom like you had explained (I was able to see daylight between the bracket and shaved bolt head)
-Additionally, on the passenger side rear, I shaved down the raised metal numbers on the inside of the caliper bracket with a metal file so there was daylight between the shaved bolt head and the bracket itself.



Based on my description, do you think I'm straight bro?
I think your good by that description just give it a few more miles and you should see a full width contact halo around the rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
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