boo!!!! need p10 option.
I'm literally about to open up the rear of my p11 to install the 5lug hub/bearing, along with installing this bracket so I can install the bigger rotors.
You have to use a shaved bolt under the torque member and the other bolt can be the stock one just like the second picture above and just a die grinder it just a tiny amount thats need to be done and I believe only one side will actually end up needing it done. I saw in one of your picture above you used both stock bolts to bolt the bracket to the spindle/beam that's not correct, thats gonna cause interference and be problematic.I'm going to try the stock bolts on the passenger rear side and perhaps shaving those metal stamped numbers. I've got a metal file on hand, hope that does it. If not whats an ideal tool for grinding it down? Thanks again
Right on right on Charlie - Let me try to verbally describe what I'm sure of for the rear. If based upon that description, you still think there is an issue, I'll open the rears back up. But I can confirm that:Can't tell quite that much from the pic but looks like your contact patch of the pad and rotor are not "full" width of the pad, this occurs when the caliper piston "pins" aren't aligned correctly against the pad "recess" area in the back and or the torque member is making contact with a bolt causing the caliper to sit "cambered" just verify to make sure I can only see a light outward diameter "shininess" that apears to be the contact area and since its a new rotor and pad its very light right now until you get more wear.
P.S. I've seen this a hand full of times with the screw in type rear piston calipers wear the pads looks like its got 5 degree of camber wear on it after time.
I think your good by that description just give it a few more miles and you should see a full width contact halo around the rotors.Right on right on Charlie - Let me try to verbally describe what I'm sure of for the rear. If based upon that description, you still think there is an issue, I'll open the rears back up. But I can confirm that:
-I rotated the rear caliper pistons clockwise, and made sure to leave it so a notch was centered in the bottom (see FSM screenshot below)
-I also ensured that for the inner pad on both sides, the little nub on the pad face fit into the notch of the caliper piston.
-In addition, I used the stock bolt to mount the caliper bracket to the top of your adapter, with the shaved bolt at the bottom like you had explained (I was able to see daylight between the bracket and shaved bolt head)
-Additionally, on the passenger side rear, I shaved down the raised metal numbers on the inside of the caliper bracket with a metal file so there was daylight between the shaved bolt head and the bracket itself.
Based on my description, do you think I'm straight bro?
Thank you, I just got it offline bro.Good question. I'm very happy with the brackets I've gotten for my p11. Btw, where did you get your avatar image? I was looking to make a graphic similar to that...
Little P10 teaser but still haven't found the time to get to the JY yet.This