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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Few questions
1)Does anyone know how many amps the factory 2000 P11 has?
2)Has anyone replace there's for more amps to run a crazy sound system?
3)Has anyone heard of or use a kinetik power cell battery??

Reason for me asking this is that I kept the factory in and added a alpine mrp-m850 mono amp running at 4 ohms so around 500 watts of work of the amp and a rockford 1 farad cap about 6 months later the factory alternator died on me. I was so much in a rush to get it fixed i went to my mechanic and had him order one and installed it for me. Ok I'm back to sqaure 1 so now i beefed it up and used a 10 farad rockford cap also added another m850 so now each sub has its own amp trust me its loud and clean and got an optima yellow top battery so the voltage meter would read 13.80 - 14 ok cool but one of my friends informed me that its best to also give the battery another ground which i did again another thing to make it better cause now its at 14.1-14.6 sometimes drop to 13.2-13.6 and back up. At this loud volume of 14-18 its reading 13.5 and the gear selector light dimms so I'm guessing its not enough power for my system.So i would either sell the 10 farad and get kinetik power cell and custom hide it in the trunk. Again should i beef up the alternator or get a kinetik battery.

So does anyone have any suggestions??
 

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1. about 100 amps, possibly same as b15 RR alt.
2. i have on my p10, put a b15 100 amp alt, current setup is 600+ monoblock at 2ohms and 400+ 4ch.
3. nope
Suggestions: add more grounds, to both battery and alt with a clean/scraped contact. the lights will dim less and it will help with charging. a good battery will help, but the alt is what gives the rest the power needed to cover the amps power draw and the charging. I suggest going for the beefy alt. with my current setup, i have driven with ac on, lights on and cranking it up, and my lights dimmed slightly. forgot to add, i have a redtop optima.
 

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Q.#3 so this would be like a Seiko kinetic watch and charge itself with motion of the car?

how cool is that.
 

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Mate,

Factory p11 is about 80a

I am running 3000rms.
I have standard bat upfront and a odessey PC2150 in the boot.
i have run a 0gauge cable from my alt to the + on my battery (you need to do this with big power)
i have a 0gauge cable from my engine to my chasis (better if you went from engine to battery)
i have a 0gauge + 4gauge cable from battery to ground

i have a 0gauge running to the back of the car on a split charge relay. a 4gauge running to under my seat for the speaker amp.

i am regulary pulling 200amps. @ 1ohm

my lights do not dim on full tilt. my voltage usauly stays above 13.5 when driving. (alternator fully kicks in 2.5k revs?)

if im idling it can go down to 12.9

your batterys store power, your alternator makes it.

i am after an upgraded one to try to keep 14.4v constant, but they are hard to find.

ditch the cap its not gr8 :)
 
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i'm running a crunch p1100.2 amp for my twin 12" subs (2 ohms each but wired for 4ohms. amp can't do less than 4ohms).
got 4gauge from battery back to trunk. (gonna do some serious regrounding this weekend) all running on the factory alternator. no problems so far.
 

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You oughta check out Ohio Generators. They rebuild stock alternators and can beef it up to your specs if you wanted. I've heard a lot of good things about this company with a few audio guru friends. Definitely would upgrade the battery and alternator before adding a cap.

your batterys store power, your alternator makes it.
:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So a few days ago it seems as the knock sensor went on me. Now here's the question would having subs that quake after about 8 months screw up a knock sensor? although this car was in a accident 4 years ago would subs affect my sensor even more?
 

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Mate,

Factory p11 is about 80a

I am running 3000rms.
I have standard bat upfront and a odessey PC2150 in the boot.
i have run a 0gauge cable from my alt to the + on my battery (you need to do this with big power)
i have a 0gauge cable from my engine to my chasis (better if you went from engine to battery)
i have a 0gauge + 4gauge cable from battery to ground

i have a 0gauge running to the back of the car on a split charge relay. a 4gauge running to under my seat for the speaker amp.

i am regulary pulling 200amps. @ 1ohm

my lights do not dim on full tilt. my voltage usauly stays above 13.5 when driving. (alternator fully kicks in 2.5k revs?)

if im idling it can go down to 12.9

your batterys store power, your alternator makes it.

i am after an upgraded one to try to keep 14.4v constant, but they are hard to find.

ditch the cap its not gr8 :)
Sounds crazy... got pics?
 

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Stock Alternator is more like 85 amps. I know this from picking up an alternator off of a fellow member a few years back that had one rewound to put out 120 amps. He had it rewound but never installed it, so I lucked out picking it up from him. All I can tell you is that it wasn't cheap to do either! It still had the work tag on it with $250 on it! yikes! The good news, this alternator in now on Loek's P11-144. I'm STILL looking for a local place to that can (& will) get his old alternator rewound to this level.
 

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1. a decent brand of capacitor running at 1 farad is generally good up to about 1,000 watts rms. i wouldnt change your cap yet. and 10 farad is overkill but cool anyway.

2. what firestorm said is right. he is running 0gauge wire all over his car. but only a 4 gauge to his amp or capactior or whatever. bigger wire is better(although a pita to get through the firewall sometimes with 0awg wire), extra grounds are better also.

3. a higher powered alternator would be cool too but not completely necessary sometimes. for you i would say it is about borderline, you could stay with stock and be just fine if you keep your current system. you may improve your sound and power with a bigger alternator but a good alt is not cheap and most of the aftermarket ones require a 3 wire hookup(different then our g's 3 wires, not hard to do but good to know anyways).

4.Get your battery grounded better then what it is right now, also get or make a grounding kit and ground your whole engine:battery,alternator, block, whatever you want but just make sure important things are grounded.

5. yellow top batteries are good stuff, but if you are looking for more power then your capacitor then in stead of that kinetico something battery, just get a second yellow top in your trunk, you will see considerably less dimming, and you will never have to worry about the alternator being overloaded, with your current system. with a higher powered system maybe one day you will but not with what you have right now.

sorry for the long friggin post
 
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