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Hey guys, I been delaying this for 2 years now and need a fix to pass emission. Im getting P1447. The car drives fine, gets 30 MPG city/hwy. Here's what I tried so far:

- Took out the EVAP canister valve. It worked fine didn't stick when I tested it.

I don't know what else to check. My car is 1999 G20.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The FSM doesn't reference O2 sensor. Its the EVAP system. I'm going to try changing the EVAP canister this weekend. Some forums on Nissan suggested this was common, and to also check the purge valve along with cleaning out all the lines for loose charcoal. Wish me luck.
 

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Did you change your gas cap? Might want to do that too.
 

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Ok so how about displaying the definition of the code when you ask? I dont feel like doing digging around in the FSM for a free "internet diagnosis"

The cansiter valve? Its not a canister valve code, its a purge monitoring code, which more than likely means the purge valve is bad, purge valve is under the hood, but this is an easy test. You see the green capped service port in your engine bay? Clamp off the hose side that goes bad under the car to the canister and then pull vacuum on the service port. If it leaks you have a hole in the line or bad purge valve. REALLY check for pinholes and once you verify the hoses are ok, replace the purge valve. If it holds vacuum then your problem is between where you have it clamped off and the EVAP control sytem pressure sensor. Since I had to pull out the FSM to read the code that will be $70, i can accept payment via paypal
 

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Ok so how about displaying the definition of the code when you ask? I dont feel like doing digging around in the FSM for a free "internet diagnosis"

The cansiter valve? Its not a canister valve code, its a purge monitoring code, which more than likely means the purge valve is bad, purge valve is under the hood, but this is an easy test. You see the green capped service port in your engine bay? Clamp off the hose side that goes bad under the car to the canister and then pull vacuum on the service port. If it leaks you have a hole in the line or bad purge valve. REALLY check for pinholes and once you verify the hoses are ok, replace the purge valve. If it holds vacuum then your problem is between where you have it clamped off and the EVAP control sytem pressure sensor. Since I had to pull out the FSM to read the code that will be $70, i can accept payment via paypal
Gnet also charges a 10% fee, so that's an extra 7 dollars, so your total is 77 dollars
 

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Ok so how about displaying the definition of the code when you ask? I dont feel like doing digging around in the FSM for a free "internet diagnosis"

The cansiter valve? Its not a canister valve code, its a purge monitoring code, which more than likely means the purge valve is bad, purge valve is under the hood, but this is an easy test. You see the green capped service port in your engine bay? Clamp off the hose side that goes bad under the car to the canister and then pull vacuum on the service port. If it leaks you have a hole in the line or bad purge valve. REALLY check for pinholes and once you verify the hoses are ok, replace the purge valve. If it holds vacuum then your problem is between where you have it clamped off and the EVAP control sytem pressure sensor. Since I had to pull out the FSM to read the code that will be $70, i can accept payment via paypal
i know all these steps, i had to do that to my 99 over a year ago. of course i got to my EVAP problem too late and now it throws like 3 other codes
 

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I don't own this car anymore, HAIL DAMAGE totalled it..But the fix was to replace the EVAP canister. The canister leaked charcoal all into the EVAP lines. I blew out all the EVAP lines removing the loose charcoal. It ran for 300 miles and passed emissions. Good luck to everyone that has this same code. I'm now sporting a I30t.
 

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I figured I would add more to this thread, rather than open a new one. I'm very certain that my TPS is out of wack, because I was having some idle issues the other night, and decided to move my TPS to see if it was even sending a signal. Well it was functioning because it had an affect on how the car idled, even by the slightest movment. By putting the car into timing mode (reving it past 3k x 3 and unplugging the TPS) I've got my idle and timing nearly dead on (well as much as you can w/ out consultant) however I know I threw the TPS off.

I noticed that my new 1-11 or P1447 code also can be due to a TPS in a closed position.



My question is, I have read the FSM, and I'm still unsure on how to adjust the TPS properly. Anyone out there with some insight on if this is really a possible cause of my new code? Any advice on a simple explaination on how I can adjust my TPS? I would like to try fixing this myself first, and I just recently fixed all the hacked up vacuum lines the previous owner removed and cut, and before I move into diagnosing futher emissions issues, I think I need to work on the TPS first.
 

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Bump, need an answer to find if anyone has encountered a P1447 (1-11) code because of bad TPS adjustment. Also could use some info on tips or quick ways to adjust the TPS properly without a consult/computer. Help or advice would be much appreciated.
 

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Forget, I found a thread that puts adjusting the TPS a no brainer. Basically with the ignition on (car not running) test the 2 top pins in the brown connector with a multimeter, voltage reading should be equal to below .5v for a nice steady idle. Tighten the TPS back down, when the TPS is opened up it should read 4-5v. Reset ecu.

http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=17945&highlight=throttle+position+sensor

I'll update this thread with more info on the 1447 code, to tell if the TPS is actually a factor.
 

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Crap I've put about 150 miles on my car since the engine swap and I just got the 1447 CEL.
Anyone have a pic of where the canister is located?
 
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