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Discussion Starter #1
I got my Pacesetter Header today. It looks good to me. I'm gonna have the extra emissions welded, since they make it for all years, and paint soon. I probably won't be able to put it on till next week. I'll keep you posted. pics will be on my site soon.
 

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Glad to hear you finally received it. I just stripped the primaries yesterday and had a local shop weld a full bead around them as well. I will be installing my 'new' one later this week.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
why are you welding the primaries. the inside is already welded and the outside is tached?
 

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I've never held one in my own hands, but I was not under the impression that the inside of the flange-to-primary seal was welded at all; I thought it was just the tacks on the outside. Either way, anything that adds strength to the joints will improve durability. I'd also have a local shop weld in a decent flexpipe, too; that joint PS uses sucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think that they leave the outside just tacked so it is able to expand and contract. I heard nothing but problems with changing the joint . but if I even hear a peep out of it I'll have an exhaust shop weld one in. that won't be a problem to change later as long as they have a lift to get under. I'm more concerned with pluging the emissions I don't need and getting a good coat of paint on. I gave the primary to my father to have the bottom emission hole plugged or welded ( he has tools to do at work). and I'm gonna clean the 2nd & 3rd part tommorro so I can paint that. when I get the primary back I'll do the same. I'll keep you posted.
 

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Reason for welding the primaries: The welds PS does suck ass.

The #1 primary on the first header I received did not even fully extend to the flange and you could see light through it. So I called PS and they sent me another one under warranty.

I received the second header 8 days after the first one and the #1 primary on that one had been machined to close and broke through the weld as well. So instead of dealing with PS and shipping costs, etc. I sanded the primary down and had all four flanges properly welded with a full bead for durability.

I just finished sanding the secondairies down today. Will clean all three pieces tomorrow, paint them and install them. Went with 1500 degree high temp paint. Needs to be cured for 1 hour. Guess I will be taking a one hour drive tomorrow afternoon! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The motor side of the flange on mine is welded completly around and is very clean. the other side is just tached.
 

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Okay, chizneck the spiznecks:
  • $145 - Pacesetter Header
    + 30 - JCWhitney Exhaust Flex Section
    + 30 - No-name 2-to-1 Collector w/Smaller Neck
    +165 - SwainTech White Lightning Header Coating
    $370 - Total Parts Cost.
Welding and shipping aside, this is a very attractive alternative to buying a HS or Stillen header. Sure, it takes more time, and it's a lot of work, but it's not that expensive, and if you know your welder, you know it's done right. I'll sleep better tonight knowing the above prices. ;)
 

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CowboyDren said:

  • $145 - Pacesetter Header
    + 30 - JCWhitney Exhaust Flex Section
    + 30 - No-name 2-to-1 Collector w/Smaller Neck
    +165 - SwainTech White Lightning Header Coating
    $370 - Total Parts Cost.
Welding and shipping aside, this is a very attractive alternative to buying a HS or Stillen header.
:confused:

Huh? For that, I'd spend $30 more and go buy a new HotShot Gen 5 header and be done with it. Good welds, more power, clean install. More or less plug-n-play install.

Personally, after sanding down, welding, repainting and installing the PS header yesterday, I will never buy a PS header again. The power gains are well worth the price, but the time it takes to get there is not worth it to me.

I must be getting old. It's that 30 something in me that is telling me to not do this again.
 

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Okay, since everybody is poo-poo'ing my previous, take $145 (+S&H) for the header, sand-blast it (doing that by hand is just silly), weld it, and then spend $165 (+S&H) SwainTech it. You still have vastly superior thermal handling and corrosion resistance, and nearly the same strength as the HS design. Not to mention waaaay under-budget.

Maybe the better thermals can make up for the larger midpipe in power gains...:crosseyed...nah. I guess it's still ugly, only white instead of black; most would probably prefer black anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
here is a picture of it painted just crying for me to put it in.
PS header
 

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Not to be a Doubting Thomas, but I really want to know what kind of durability that barbeque paint offers. I want to have updates at every oil change or any significant change in appearance. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I am very into looks so I'll keep it posted. I have 500 degree paint on my heat shield now and it looks fine, soo 1200 should be great. If not for $150 it's worth a shot . worst case I strip it and use 1500* manifold paint that I just found today( the dayafter I finished painting)
 
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