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ohhh! nice i had a question... approx. how long does the install take for the wires???
 

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Mautai916 said:
if you can wait till later on 2night, ill post close-ups ov every position that i grounded too. As for how long it takes to install the kit, i would say roughly 15-30 mins max. Its really easy to do.

sounds good... i may try n order some within the next 2 weeks or so... routine maint. is almost due on my BaBy so i'll probably do the ground wires then. whenever you get the pics up is cool. thanx man...
 

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DeaDg20 said:
ohhh! nice i had a question... approx. how long does the install take for the wires???
I spent an hour but I dont rush anything. I was sneaky about running the wires, you cant even see em really unless you are specifically looking for them. I made sure that I had bare metal wherever necessary I used a razor blade so that I could be precise about it, and like Martin said I didnt have to do anything with the VC at all.
 

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I'll snap a few pics once I'm home (leaving work in 10 minutes) and try and slap some up..

- Jon
 

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Took about 5 minutes or a bit more.

Mautai916 ground wire kit on P11:


^ I did not link but might see if it makes a difference later.

^ from the top of the first image to here.

^ tower to firewall.

^ block to tower.

^ man to firewall.

^ overall
 

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La-illaha Il-lallah
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How does a ground wire going from the tower to firewall (and nothing else) help in grounding the car? I am not being sarcastic, I really want to know.
 

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My grounding points

*Note* i was only able to ground to my strut towers is because I have MEP mounts and the bolts are smaller than stock. If you have stock strut mounts, they will not work. Just ground it anywhere else will work just as well. :)

Grounding the battery => chasis (RIGHT wire), and the other wire on the LEFT => engine block


Engine Block => chasis


The grounding point on the top => intake manifold, and the wire on the bottom goes from 1) chasis => engine block 2) chasis => negative battery connection


Wire on the left => left strut tower and the wire on the right => right strut tower.


Wire comming from both intake manifold, and the alternator


Alternator ground => left strut tower
 

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The plate that they are on is a factory ground point (iirc) and I thought would be a good bridge between the after market kit and the factory. I am open to change. :)
 

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Hamzer11 said:
How does a ground wire going from the tower to firewall (and nothing else) help in grounding the car? I am not being sarcastic, I really want to know.
he is right, you should run the ground from the firewall or twoer to some engine part... the intake manifold is good cause the ground wires for the ecu are right there...
 

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Good, I don't have to take shots of my engine bay, I actually hooked em up how Martin did, sept i have an extra one comming off the block...

_Jon
 

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Mautai916 said:
*Note* i was only able to ground to my strut towers is because I have MEP mounts and the bolts are smaller than stock. If you have stock strut mounts, they will not work. Just ground it anywhere else will work just as well. :)
I have a 02 p11 and i mounted the wires to the strut tower with stock mounts no problem... I think if you have a stb then you will run into a problem
 

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tealturboser said:
I have a 02 p11 and i mounted the wires to the strut tower with stock mounts no problem... I think if you have a stb then you will run into a problem
ok i stand corrected. I installed them on my fiend's p11 today and it fit with no problems. Apparently the bolts on the p11 strut tower are SMALLER than the p10's. :)
 

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Yup..they fit wonders. I figure if worst comes to worst you can cut the rings to make them fit better. like a C shape? Just a thought. Martin you the man!
 

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I know this is an old thread but Wow these are terrible examples for installing ground kits. You should never stack ground terminals. the idea is to get the electric back to the battery with the least amount of resistance as short as possible without adding 15 feet of cable and to not pass through the gaskets. Like the grounds from the ecm to top of intake. IF you put the added grounds under the factory ecm grounds you won't be able to connect your consult. So even if the added grounds are on top they are doing nothing. And stainless steel doesnt conduct electricity for shit. There's a lot of open threaded spots that are not being used. Zinc and aluminum bolts work great. Not stainless or grade 8 they are highly resistive. just trying to help not be a dick.
 
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