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There is at least one stacked factory ground wire on the P10 that I know of. I should check resistance to see if it is different between top and bottom. Otherwise, I agree with using aluminum or zinc for conductivity purposes. Thanks for the information.
 

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It's OK if they are soldered together and use 1 end terminal as long as it's not to much. I've been through tons of cars grounds and never seen 2 terminals stacked together on 1 bolt. I don't think Chevy would even do that from the factory.
 

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It's OK if they are soldered together and use 1 end terminal as long as it's not to much. I've been through tons of cars grounds and never seen 2 terminals stacked together on 1 bolt. I don't think Chevy would even do that from the factory.
Nissan did it, unless someone monkeyed with it before I bought it, but it all looks original and both wires are just long enough to reach the mounting point. Check out your car; it's the one located next to or underneath the ABS motor. If you don't see it I can send a picture of mine, or it may be visible in a photo posted in my "member's rides" thread.
 

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I see it . Wtf . I was looking above the abs controller inside passenger compartment. Test that one and what's all on the top terminal and does it still work.? Madness. No resistance all the way back to the battery either. Not even through the dirt on the terminal lol. I've been lied to. But there is .2 on ecm grounds to the battery so I should probably check that out before I'm searching for a new ecm huh. Thank you for pointing that out. Lol and I've cleaned the connections on that and i didn't even think , hey why is the 2 here.
 

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2002 infiiniti G20 auto Base/Leather, KR4 titanium/light tan leather, 230k-ish miles, my DD
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I know this is an old thread but Wow these are terrible examples for installing ground kits. You should never stack ground terminals. the idea is to get the electric back to the battery with the least amount of resistance as short as possible without adding 15 feet of cable and to not pass through the gaskets. Like the grounds from the ecm to top of intake.

IF you put the added grounds under the factory ecm grounds you won't be able to connect your consult. So even if the added grounds are on top they are doing nothing.

And stainless steel doesnt conduct electricity for shit. There's a lot of open threaded spots that are not being used. Zinc and aluminum bolts work great. Not stainless or grade 8 they are highly resistive. just trying to help not be a dick.
>>>> THIS great info, thank you i never until now realised that or rather it never occured to me at the moment when selcting a gournd point or material the bolt is made of, thanks!!!
ALSO , you want to make sure and keep your high power grounds seperate from your low power grounds.
keep grounds to high power components together and away from low power component grounds.

ie starter, alternator etc high power,

injectors, ecu, sensors low power,

also becareful adding grounds other places than stock so you dont create ground loops by accident.

i try to keep it simple as possible and simply replace the factory grounds with larger gauge and higher quality wire, etc.

for both main power leads and grounds, 4gauge ofc with copper or tinned copper lugs, if its stock 4ga up to 2 or 0 or its even an improvement replacing the stock wire with same gauge but higher quality wire of same gauge

and pay attention to type of grounding lead used, (braided strap, stranded wire, etc. and make sure all contact surfaces are as shiny and clean as can be lol if you can get em to look like a glass mirror, do it, more shiny the better, if its not tinned copper, solder the connection, to prevent corrosion, then once its securely bolted or tightened down spray paint over it to protect it all.
 
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