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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone, I'm new here, but I've been searching through this awesome forum since I got my own P11 in August. Mine is a 2000 G20t. I've had a problem with some sort of engine hesitation ever since I got it, and I've tried so many things already: I changed the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, pcv, fuel/air filter, O2 sensor. All parts are from the dealer except the plugs, which are ngk G-Power (plats) BKR6EGP, pcv, and the filter is K&N. Basically, the car hesitates on the highway, usually when cruising at about 120km/h. It also hesitates when I try to accelerate hard, and so the performance of the car is pretty bad. I also find that it sometimes becomes powerless on the hwy... I absolutely floored the accelerator in 5th gear, and it was struggling to accelerate beyond 125km/h. Things got a bit better after replacing all the parts, but still on the highway and sometimes acceleration it just bogs... I put in some fuel injector cleaner but it hasn't helped. I changed all the parts after the CEL came on and indicated intermittent misfires. The light hasn't come back on since. Also, I don't know if its related, but when I start from a rolling stop on 2nd gear at about 1500rpm, I hear a water-like rattling noise until I'm back up to 2000 rpm. I'm desperate for a solution... Any ideas?
 

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Are there any codes are all? Even though the light isn't in, there could still be a code stored. How long ago did you do the fuel filter?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for replying! The code I got after the intermittent misfire code was P0134: O2 sensor, which led me to replace the O2 sensor. After replacing the sensor I cleared the code, and I haven't seen another code yet, but the problem is still there. I must add that the problem isn't as frequent now that I've changed all those parts, but it's still there, especially at hwy speeds. I changed the fuel filter just a couple weeks back =P All the parts I mentioned were replaced within the last two months...
 

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Try checking all of your vacuum lines. Make sure they are connected and not split. Could also be a malfunctioning EGR valve.
 

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Sounds like a bad timing....

Couple of things to check, the EGR valve and vac lines that jjacob has stated, also the MAF volt and timing. Does it idle normally ?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for responding, guys. The car is idling normally, at about 800 something rpm. When I start it in the morning, it'll be jerky if I want to move without waiting for a bit, but I think that's just 'cause it needs to be warmed up, right?
I will get the EGR valve (what does that mean, btw?) and vacuum lines checked (can those be done by myself, or do I need to take it to a mechanic?).
I'll also take a look at the MAF voltage and timing and then get back to you guys. Oh yeah, more info: I notice that most times the hesitation occurs is around the band between 3000-4000 rpm, so as you can imagine, the performance really suffers :( .
 

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EGR Valve = exhaust gas recirculation valve and it is supposed to let a small amount of exhaust back into the engine. It reduces NOx emissions and helps make the car run a bit more efficiently...

anyways, if it's not functioning right it can let too much (or too little) and cause bogging. Often times, it can be cleaned. You should search around on that as well as vac lines and then decide if you want to tackle it yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ah, icic, thanks! I'll search around for those things. Hopefully they won't be too expensive to fix if its necessary =P But I guess most important is getting the car to run smooth...
 

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As Carlos suggested, you should also check your ignition timing using the factory method.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I went to get the oil changed today, and my mechanic found that one of the two bolts securing the egr valve was not screwed all the way in. He said to see if things get better now that everything is tight, but if not, he thinks it might be the fuel injectors. Anyway, I've booked an appointment with the Infiniti dealer, and they said it'll cost $100 for a 1hr diagnostic before they do anything else... :zoinks: I'm tempted to tell them to skip the diagnostic and go straight to fixing the timing, cleaning the EGR, and my fuel injectors. Do you think that is wise? Or should I just let them do the diagnostic and go from there?
 

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merlin said:
EGR Valve = exhaust gas recirculation valve and it is supposed to let a small amount of exhaust back into the engine. It reduces NOx emissions and helps make the car run a bit more efficiently because the exhaust gas is already hot so it helps heat up the air/fuel mixture a bit...


EGR is actually meant to cool down cylinder tempratures at higher engine tempratures. NOx is produced at around 2500*F, so to prevent that, exhaust gas is circulater back in. By the time it hits the manifold, the temprature has already dropped significantly. So by the time it's recirculated back into the cylinder, it's (relatively speaking) pretty cool air.




If the EGR was not bolted down properly, that could be a culprit for vaccuum leak. Do you hear any hissing noises under the hood? Other than by your intake if you have one? EGR and injectors really have no relation to each other. If the problem really hasn't cleared up, let them do diagnostics. If you just change parts because of a "hunch" you may end up spending more than you should. Hope this helps a bit.

-Ronny
 

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Very true about the EGR valve and very well may be the culprit, also might be an intermitent knock sensor, that will retard your timing quite a bit and wont show a cel (check engine light) but will still store a code. Take it to an Autozone or Advance auto and have them check for stored codes (a service they offer for free! much better than dealer price) What is your gas mileage looking like?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the info and advice. I haven't noticed any hissing noises, but we've tightened the bolts, and I'll drive it around tomorrow to see, but on the way home, I think I still felt it a bit on hard accel. So you don't think dirty injectors will cause hesitation?
I have a friend's obd2 reader and I've been monitoring the car for codes, but there have not been any.
In terms of gas mileage, it has been fluctuating lately, but I think I get about 9-10km/L.
I'll probably have to let them do the diagnostic :(
 

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KwikyMAN said:
EGR is actually meant to cool down cylinder tempratures at higher engine tempratures. NOx is produced at around 2500*F, so to prevent that, exhaust gas is circulater back in. By the time it hits the manifold, the temprature has already dropped significantly. So by the time it's recirculated back into the cylinder, it's (relatively speaking) pretty cool air. you should. Hope this helps a bit.
I stand corrected, thanks for the info. I know I read it somewhere but I guess you can't believe everything you read :teeth: Thanks again good to know!
 

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merlin said:
I stand corrected, thanks for the info. I know I read it somewhere but I guess you can't believe everything you read :teeth: Thanks again good to know!

no worries...i spent 13 weeks in an engine performance (fuel injection that is) class....which was nothing but diagnostics. 2 weeks straight was nothing but exhaust and emissions. and with all that, i still failed the ASE test by like 2 questions....I knew i shoulda bought the books and studied -.-;;
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So today I took the car into the shop (not the Infiniti dealer). They cleaned the MAF (said there was a film on it), the intake, throttle body, checked the lines, the pressure, etc.. Even after all that they could still feel the problem. They believe that since the problem shows up at higher rpms, the problem should be the distributor. He said the distributor was beginning to crumble, but its not totally gone yet since the problem is still just intermittent. I called Infiniti to ask for the price of the distributor, and he quoted me $625 (Canadian)... is that a good price...? I searched the inventory of a local auto wrecker, and they have a good condition distributor pulled from a 2001 Sentra at $84 CAD (it is listed as grade A = Less than or equal to 60k miles, or greater than 60k miles but less than or equal to 200k miles and less than or equal to 15k miles per year). The Sentra part showed up from a search for the G20 distributor, so maybe you guys know if that is the same/right part? What do you guys think?
 

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ask them what the car is doing on cunsult data monitor. If it is running lean then maf or fuel pres cuold be at falt. if it is a rich misfire condition you could have a distributor condition. but by no means will the distributor cuase a lean condition. at full throtle and no problems a car will read rich nd o2 voltage close to .8 volts
just things that need to be checked. I would hate to see you replaceing expensive unneeded parts.
 
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