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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone heard clicking/crackling from the driver side while accelerating under decent load? I thought it was my battery terminals, but both have been replaced along with the battery, and I still hear very faint crackling/electrical shorting sounds when I am accelerating under a decent load (usually the super long freeway onramp). Bolt under the main 100amp fuse has also been replaced.

I read 1 (very old) post that mentions corrosion on the fuel relays, which is what I was going to look at next, as the sounds seems to be coming from the firewall area right in front of the driver. Any input would be appreciated!
 

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Sure it's not from the turn signal / light switch on the steering column? Open the trunk and check the harness to the left top corner where the trunk opens. they are known to crack and short shit out. Mine sizzled and melted the dam switch. So i got the flickering l.e.d now. I pulled mine out they have been just hanging for 6 months. Still don't even have a back seat,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did have to repair the trunk wiring harness about 1.5 years ago due to a severed wire. Several other wires were on their way out so I soldered about 4 total and everything has worked fine after that. The shorting our you experienced happened at the steering column turn signal unit?
 

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I am new to this forum. I'll try my best at a first post.

I had crackling noise that came and went with bumps and acceleration. One day I noticed that things were better when I turned off the stereo.

That gave me an idea and I looked at the wires to the speakers. Lo and behold the wires from the speaker terminals to the speaker cone in the drivers side were touching the metal cage. When it did everything went crackly in the speakers.

A bit of tape and, thankfully, the problem was solved.

YMMV IMHO
 

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Yes. At the switch it was sizzling and it was last year when it hit -10 was freezing outside. Noticed it on way home from work. Really sucks to because i found a nice shiny new looking 1 at a Roanoke va scrap yard. Water likes to sit in that corner, and my shit iced up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes. At the switch it was sizzling and it was last year when it hit -10 was freezing outside.
Where exactly is this?

I removed and inspected all the blue relays behind the dash in the driver side area but all of them are clean; I originally suspected a fuel relay since it seems to crackle when I am demanding more fuel (trying to get up the freeway onramp..). I will try Tazz's idea and check on the speakers since the (very faint) crackling sound seems to come from the pedals/firewall area. I have meddled with the speakers but I usually keep the radio powered off during the week since my commute is so short.

I've also secured as much of the engine bay wiring that I can, cleaned the grounds, and made sure that everything (warm air intake with pop charger, MAF re-ground, ceramic headlight plugs, etc.) has minimal movement and ample clearance.
 

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My wires in the fuse box next to the battery were rotted on the terminals for the ignition coil, as well as the two headlights. Very easy to see the wires under there were barley hanging on. Disassembled the fuse box, pulled the security tab with the fuses removed, the metal tab that secures one side of the fuses drops, cut and solder the wires to that bad boy.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My wires in the fuse box next to the battery were rotted on the terminals for the ignition coil, as well as the two headlights. Very easy to see the wires under there were barley hanging on. Disassembled the fuse box, pulled the security tab with the fuses removed, the metal tab that secures one side of the fuses drops, cut and solder the wires to that bad boy.
I had that issue addressed by a shop when they replaced my alternator and the car continued to have some issues (weak battery every morning). They noticed corrosion at the engine bay fuse box and replaced a lot of the components. After I got the car back I took the fuse box apart and everything looked new under the 100 amp fuse but I will look again as it's been almost 2 years.
 

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I had that issue addressed by a shop when they replaced my alternator and the car continued to have some issues (weak battery every morning). They noticed corrosion at the engine bay fuse box and replaced a lot of the components. After I got the car back I took the fuse box apart and everything looked new under the 100 amp fuse but I will look again as it's been almost 2 years.
Gotcha. But agree checking them again to be sure (doesn’t take too long) could save you some headache in trying to diagnose the problem. Factory only crimps the wires and they are sure to corrode and short over time. Soldering up those is good insurance to ensure the load coming off the fuse box is feeding your critical components effectively.

At that point, you can really start to narrow things down.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update - the crackling sound got much quieter after I tightened the power cables that go into my new positive terminal. I tightened them a second time and they became even quieter. I have a hard time picking up the crackling sound now. Here is my Instagram post that shows photos of the new positive terminal: https://www.instagram.com/p/B4--Zb8HKzV/
 
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