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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know how difficult it is to put in a set of pullies yourself? I was wondering if anyone had done it in their own garage and what problems they had.
Also my engine makes a strange noise when the AC is on, it sounds like the fan is making the noise, but would the pullies silence this?:asian:
 

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SeminoleG20 said:
Does anyone know how difficult it is to put in a set of pullies yourself? I was wondering if anyone had done it in their own garage and what problems they had.
Also my engine makes a strange noise when the AC is on, it sounds like the fan is making the noise, but would the pullies silence this?:asian:
Not the easiest swap. You'll need a pulley puller and at least a 2" breaker bar, as the main crank bolt is on there hella tight! It's kind of fussy but it's doable.
 

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The other thing to think about with a pulley swap is changing out the main seal (right behind the crank pulley). It's a cheap part and good insurance, while you're in there sorta thing. Make sure you don't chip the pulley when pulling it off either. My dumb ass did that to my stock one :-\ The hardest part is torquing down the crank pulley (140lb.ft?) I can check my FSM later for the exact numbers if anyone needs them. Also you'll have a fun time getting to the other pulley (water pump i think?) it's the one with 4 little bolts holding it on, it's just a very tight working space. You'll also possibly have to slightly grind out the inside of that pulley so it sits flush. For some reason UR made the center hole of that pulley just a hair too small.
As for the noise I highly doubt it's going to go away with the pulleys, if anything they might cause more noises (slight belt squeal, or belt squeal when the wheel it turned all the way in one direction).

Can you describe the noise your A/C makes a little better? is it like a squealing noise, grinding,... only when the compressor is on, anytime the a/c in on?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well I'll be visiting my local performance shop for the install, but thanks for the tips, i give them to the guys who do the work.


The noise is like a low clacking or clattering. I might be crazy but it seems to loud for an idle noise from a new car with 6K miles on it.
 

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SeminoleG20 said:
Does anyone know how difficult it is to put in a set of pullies yourself? I was wondering if anyone had done it in their own garage and what problems they had.
Also my engine makes a strange noise when the AC is on, it sounds like the fan is making the noise, but would the pullies silence this?:asian:

SeminoleG20 said:
Well I'll be visiting my local performance shop for the install, but thanks for the tips, i give them to the guys who do the work.


The noise is like a low clacking or clattering. I might be crazy but it seems to loud for an idle noise from a new car with 6K miles on it.
Why waste people's time for install notes for an install you won't be doing yourself?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
any help is good help, and why not give them a little heads u pon problems, what will that hurt?
 

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SeminoleG20 said:
any help is good help, and why not give them a little heads u pon problems, what will that hurt?
Well for one if you have to take it to a shop that needs your help to install it, I probalby wouldn't recommend going there. Any certified mechanic should be able to do this pretty easily. I'm pretty far from a certified mechanic but something like this is even pretty easy for me. In fact, I just swapped out the main seal on my roommate's car (94 Sentra XE) and it didn't take too long at all. That required pulling off 3 belts, pulling the crank pulley, and then installing a new seal, then the opposite to put everything back on.
 

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well i'm pretty friendly with the guy who works there b/c i had a 69 Scout that he worked on for me (practically every other week) and I just tought it would nice..............sorry to get everyone all ruffled:beard: :confused:
 

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Definitely go ahead and replace the seal behind the crank pulley while you're in there. It's only ~$7. Be careful with the crank pulley puller, I think I might have cracked the front cover with mine. The torque spec on the crank bolt is ~110 ft*lbs. Oh and the water pump belt UR recommended wasn't long enough. I ended having to get a 34.2" belt instead of a 34" belt. Have fun.
 

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I just put the whole pulley kit (U/D, alt, A/C and P/S) on my 99 G20. Everything but the alternator pulley worked good. When I turn my AC on too, it makes a weird noise. Just put Cams, cam gears and header on too. Wow, what a difference.
 

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Justin was right! Change the crank oil seal so you don't have to remove the crancase pulley twice! After I installed the Ultra S UR pulleys in a week..., I had an oil leak. Where? Right on that crank oil seal! So, if I were you..., I will/You must change it ;)

Good Luck
 

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i couldnt see why he would have to replace the seal, he only has 7k on his car right
 

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bellaG20 said:
I just put the whole pulley kit (U/D, alt, A/C and P/S) on my 99 G20. Everything but the alternator pulley worked good. When I turn my AC on too, it makes a weird noise. Just put Cams, cam gears and header on too. Wow, what a difference.
What did you do with the cam gears? Also what cams did you put in?

NISMO1028 said:
i couldnt see why he would have to replace the seal, he only has 7k on his car right
I didn't replace my seal. I don't think I even had that much when I swapped in my pullies. No problems, I even have a spare seal now. :)
 

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i couldnt see why he would have to replace the seal, he only has 7k on his car right...

Yeah, but why does he need to replace the pulley anyway? Is he replacing it with aftermarket light weight CNC such as UR, AEM, etc...., I assumed :confused:
 

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bellaG20 said:
What do you mean by what did I do with the cam gears?? I got the stillen cams and cam sprockets.;)
Yes but the cam sprokets are adjustible I'm assuming? What changes did you make to the cam timing? Or did someone just sell you Stillen cam gears and put them in at the stock cam timing?
 

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we haven't adjusted them yet. I am putting a 50 shot of NOS on too, so you r supposed to retard the timing. But a friend of mine said he read about advancing the timing 19 degrees will give like 15 horsepower. He has to call NX to make sure it is ok to do that with the bottle.
 

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OK but that's not cam timing, that's base timing. Oh and BTW 19 BTDC will not give 15hp, maybe 2-5hp at the most. I wouldn't recommend running 19 BTDC with naws.
 

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ive seen dyno runs posted on sr20deforum that 19 degree timing gives you up to 6 hp in differant parts of the power curve

and he's right when you go forced induction you want to retard your timing, not advance it
 

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belts

just curious - after you swap the stock pulleys for the UR set, do you need new belt sizes? I checked the UR site, and it recommended different Gates belt sizes than Gates recommends...

also, engine idle is getting a bit odd - normally, my P10 idles around 600-750 RPM, but sometimes it drops to less than 500! the car has never stalled, but it's come VERY close...any ideas?

thanks!

.sushi.
 
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