[hurddawg]

@NissanEgg so ive been looking at this for a while. I also have your answers.

yes those Parts are available.

- 2J Racing sells taller ball joints for the B13/B14. So has it the P10 uses the same ball joints. They also offer tie rod end correction as well but it will not work…as b13/b14 inner tie rods are M12x1.25. P10 is M14x1.5 which is the same as S14/R32….not Sure about the R32 but S14 roll correction tie rod ends mount from the bottom up vs P10 from the top down. So while mounting from the bottom is what we would need, the taper won’t work as it’s upside down.
So leads me to this

-TDMimports sells the P10 roll correction tie rods.but I kinda don’t care for their attachment system for the taper. I like the safety net that 2J did with theirs. I just don’t know if the taper is the same betweenB13/B14and P10 (on the tie rods) their isnt a way to check with out one in hand. The other is B15 tie rod parts but they too are M12x1.25

I’ve spent a fair bit on this $$ wise so I’m going to keep on it. I’ve found on Pegasus racing similar heim joints that 2J used but in M14x1.5. There are a bit spendy at $85 each + shipping. I’m hoping I might be able to adapt the 2J”taper adapters” to the larger heim joints. I just don’t know the boresize on the 2J parts.

upper arm wise I’m not enough of an engineer to make a new UCA. But I think I can Drill new holes in the car side bracket up to help correct on that end. Just eye balling think might give us 1/2” or so. Which may not be enough, but better than nothing? I may need to modify the chassis a bit to massage a bit more out of the bracket and make sure the UCA doesn’t hit the bracket before the suspension bottoms.

anyway to sum up.

cheapest way would be

2J racing B13/B14 ball joints with out roll correction tie rods and then purchase the TDMimport P10 RC tie rods. Then modify the UCA bracket.

Or you can do the round about way I did and spend a bunch of money on parts you can’t use lol

Best I can figure on the rear is to make a bracket to fit on the knuckle to space the rear lateral arms “down”

 

[NissanEgg]

Awesome!

 

[hurddawg]

So just to update my original post, yes B13/B14 tie rods from 2J Racing can be relatively easily modified to accept M14x1.5 threads. I recommend a drill press. It works as the 2J heim joint is already M14, just course thread, so the coupling nut is large enough to go bigger relatively safely. Taper works too.

Also after speaking to Charles aka Snickers/projectsnickers, I had it backwards, you need to drill the UCA hole in the bracket more down (roll center) and back (camber) in the chassis. This will also improve the camber curve on the front suspension along with roll center. According to him, swapping in Cusco UCAs will improve the camber curve but will not address roll center as obviously, the hole is in same spot. So if you drill the bracket correctly, its a two birds with 1 stone type of deal. Coupling the mod with the Cusco UCAs, you'll find the camber curve maybe too aggressive and he recommended it for track vehicles. He recommended if you are hard set on using Cusco arms (I am), to shim/space out the bracket from the chassis to dial out some of the camber.