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Discussion Starter #1
Any guesses as to which one is the culprit, and should I replace the shock due to the damage you will see in the last pic. This is on a 99 G20. Thanks!

There is some play in this part when I move it up and down by hand, should there be?



And some leakage/junk on this part:





And the plastic around the top of the shock is basically gone:

 

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o dont think thre should be play on the first pic (tie rod) cant really tell but it looks like your lca ball joint is Kaput on the second pic..and that rubber around the strut is to protect is from dirt and stuff..as for the rattle...search for front sway bar clunk and such..
 

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ok basically
first pic - tie rod, shouldnt be play when your moving it up and down, change it it's really easy
second pic- some sort of balljoint, if there isnt any play and its just leaking then eventually it will have play and wear out but you can just keep reinjecting it with grease although change it later on when you see play
third pic - plastic on spring. Dont worry about that shouldnt matter at all
 

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Pizdeet kak Trotsky
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dalinxz said:
ok basically plastic on spring. Dont worry about that shouldnt matter at all
I got a advisory to change the gaiters on my rear suspension at testing time a few years ago ....... :mad:

Theys were about £12 ea & it took me freakin hours to get the suspension off, undo the springs & refit ....... Mind you I was constantly answering the fone & generally messing about at the time :teeth:
 

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drunken master
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their should be no play in the suspention at all.
so are you getting play up and down only? with tire monted?
if so chances are it is the leaking ball joint on the lower control arm. the tie rod play should be felt on side to side movement
 

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Discussion Starter #7
p10det said:
their should be no play in the suspention at all.
so are you getting play up and down only? with tire monted?
if so chances are it is the leaking ball joint on the lower control arm. the tie rod play should be felt on side to side movement
Thanks everyone. As for this question, the play was both up and down and side to side. Have not tried it with the tire mounted, but I will tonight.
 

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drunken master
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if the tire is mounted have a freind move tire and you hold inner then outter tie rods to cut movement. since you have up and down and side to side chances are their is mor than one propblem allsoy use a flash light so you can see play visually.
A wheel bearing could be playing as well so take you time and this will be easy to figure out
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK, so I take the G20 into the Infiniti dealer this morning to get the oil changed, and I ask them about this. They offer to take a look without charging the normal diagnostic fee, and they come back and say that it is the lower control arm (part # 54500 and 54501). It is about $900 for them to replace both sides, but I'll trade in the car before I sink $900 into it. Is the lower control arm something I should be able to replace on my own?
 

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Get them to clarify if it's the LCA bushes or the ball joint.
The complete LCA's are $141 each from Everything infiniti or you can get ball joints for around $15 each and have them pressed out/in...well you can for the P10 LCA's, I can't seem to find them for the P11. I can't find P11 LCA's on Ebay either, surely there should be some...


I would never take a 7 year old car to a dealers for work. Take it to a local shop...
 

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That's the rear LCA bush. Unfortunately Superpro don't do that bush for the P11 so you're stuck with purchasing complete LCAs. The only place I know that sells those bushes separate from the arm is Auto Kelly in the Czech republic.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK, thanks. Would it be worth my time and effort to buy and install the complete lca's myself, or is this definitely a job for the local shop?
 

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It's not a hard job. A few bolts and the ball joint nut, you can see them on the drawing (FAST Illustration) you have. The pin that goes through the front bush can get stuck though :(.

I don't know your mechanical expertise so I dunno if it's within your capabilities :)

BTW, you can get non genuine LCAs for $35 here.... https://sslrelay.com/buypartsby.co.uk/wishbonelh_details.php?recordID=340
I would have thought there is a cheap source in the US too.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Two years of auto tech class in high school. Did a lot of work on my '67 and '68 Camaro's, but that was almost 20 years ago. Haven't done much since then. I may give it a try though. Thanks for the help. Looks like you have a little Mark Knopfler in your pic!
 

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Knopfler said:
Two years of auto tech class in high school. Did a lot of work on my '67 and '68 Camaro's, but that was almost 20 years ago. Haven't done much since then. I may give it a try though. Thanks for the help. Looks like you have a little Mark Knopfler in your pic!
Sounds like you should be able to handle it :)


Jake has stopped playing his guitar now. I bought him a small acoustic after he liked the toy one so much, and started to learn to play it myself so I could help him...he lost interest soon after :-\

He may pick it up again once he starts with music classes in school.
 

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i know this is a semi old thread but im gonna resurect because im having the same noise in my p10. i know what it is... the ball joint on the tie rod end that connect the tie rod to the steering knuckle... awhile ago i was pulling it off to change an axle and i didnt have a crows foot so my dumb ass beat on the bottom of the stud sticking out the bottom of the ball joint and buggered the threads on it... now it wont tighten all the way due to it being stripped. i did manage to get the castle nut on enough to get the cotter pin through it so it wouldt come off but the rattling nois is driving me crazy... how much does the ball joint thingy itself cost and how hard is it to put it in at home?
a part number would be cool if anyone has it. ill check the fsm and see if i can find it

thanks guys...


Chris
 

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You should be able to pick a tie rod end (or as we call them here, a track rod end) from any car parts shop, motor factors. Easy enough to change but they're usually on there tight. It's just a matter of getting it loose and then winding it off. If the new one is an exact match then just wind it on upto the locknut, tighten it, and the alignment should be fine. If you're at all unsure then get it checked/adjusted.

Another option is taking a file to the damaged end to remove the flattened end and then cleaning the threads with a tap or thread file.
 
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