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Discussion Starter #1
hey g20.net guys,

i thot i'd hit you guys up with somethin to look at...this is my dad and his buddies that have swapped an sr20de s14 off of a silvia and into a datsun roadster...was jsut showing you guys to probably interest you in powdercoating of the valve cover and intake manifold.

Here

Out with the old:


In with the new:

 

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wow that is a very clean and nice install(upgrade).
I love that engine bay simple, but very functional
happy new years everyone

Brad\\


FYI i love the placement of the relocated filter very good choice for oil changes
 

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looking for a can opener
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all that and you use a fram oil filter haha. i didnt know they made hard tops of those. can you still take it off?
 

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that's an awesome install, that'll fly with such a small car and such a big motor, take some vids when that thing is up and running :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
by the way...whats wrong with a fram oil filter? Fuckin asshole, blow me
 

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I Gots More NISMO Then U!
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always been a fan of the old datsuns, does your dad show it, race it, or just plane oil have fun with it? looks like its been very well taken care of.
 

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so whats the reason for the swap? pursuit of speed or did the old engine die?

and :lol:, someone sure is touchy bout oil filters
 

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THEY TOOK OUR JOBS!
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sweet! you and your old man better come to the next Freakmont Nissan meet.
 

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riazabzal said:
by the way...whats wrong with a fram oil filter?
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html#avoid

Fram Extra Guard
Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circuilating through my system. The oil passge to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.

Fram Double Guard
Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure releif valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. Dupont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.

Penzoil
This filter is a Fram! It is the exact same design as the Fram Extra Guard filter and it is junk. On the up side, it costs $1 less than the Fram version.

Quaker State
This is another Fram Extra Guard that I have seen at K-mart. It used to be a Purolator, but Quaker State is now owned/controlled by Penzoil.

http://www.corolland.com/oil-filters.html

Fram Extra Guard - PH4967 - $4.99

Base-plate: 10 hole openings. Thickness of the plate approx. 0.12". The gasket that goes against the engine is squared. Gasket is held in place by 6 pressed lips.

Case: Thickness approx. 0.021", thickest of the group.

Anti-drainback valve: Black rubber. It seemed really thin and flimsy. Thickness of 0.054". Total width of 2.12". Hole in center of 1.0".

The by-pass valve is a plastic piece that is snapped into a coil spring that is attached to the inside case spring that resides at the far end of the paper filter element opposite the base plate (Whew!). There doesn't appear to be any gasket on this valve, just plastic against the metal of the spring creating the seal as best I can tell.

Filter element: Paper - thickness 0.036". 39 pleats of width 0.48". Filter element height of approx. 1.85". 69.26 sq. in. of filtering surface area. The seam of the filtering element was nicely put together with a metal clasp (just like the Purolator). Cardboard end caps are glued to each end of the filter element. Metal support structure inside element to prevent collapse.

General observations: The anti-drainback valve rubber was the thinnest and flimsiest of all the filters. Pretty good glue job on attaching filter element to the cardboard end caps. This filter has the grip area on the outside of the canister which makes it easier to tighten the filter by hand when putting it on the car, the only down-side I've experienced with this grip area is trying to get a filter removal tool cap over it, a really tight fit. This filter appears to be the lowest quality of the group. But it is one of the most expensive of the group too, I guess marketing costs are pretty high here. The cardboard end-caps for the filter element, the cheap plastic by-pass valve and the flimsy anti-drainback valve will make me stay away from this filter. This filter is made in Canada. I can't tell what standards it meets (J806 or J1858).

riazabzal said:
Fuckin asshole, blow me
And why the hostility, he was making a valid point. Some Fram filters have been shown as poor in tests. No need for the language...

Those tests are old but once something is labelled as crap, it tends to stick. Fram may be OK now but a lot of people won't touch them because of such reports.


Here's a decent comment about Fram...

http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml

The FRAM x2 (and only the FRAM x2 Series) is probably the most heavily constructed filter I've seen so far. Though all of the Japanese made filters were of exceptional quality, the Fram x2 was as good in every way. Of note with the construction were the following features: metal screen backing the media, heavy metal end caps (all other Fram filters have cardboard), and 2 layer filter medium. Lab testing indicates this filter is fine at 5000 miles use with Mobil 1. As with all of the Fram filters and OEM Honda oil filters the x2 uses the standard spring loaded plastic by-pass valve that many people do not like. However, lab tests do not indicate that the valve jams or fails to work. It's possible that a hard enough impact at a sharp angle while the filter was by-passing might cause it to jam open, but I suspect the fluid within the filter would prevent this.


Cool project btw :thumbsup:

:)
 
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