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Discussion Starter #1
so i know i'll get flamed and told to search, and i've tried. what i've found is people asking similar questions but not really getting the answers i need.

so everyone says to leave the factory alarm intact when doing a remote start/alarm install. so that's what i'm trying to do. the system i've got has a wire that it says is supposed to be connected to the factory alarm to disarm it. does anybody know where i would connect this or if there is anywhere to connect it?

if all else fails and i need to rest solely on the aftermarket alarm, how do i disconnect or otherwise disable the factory alarm? and could i take the wires with the led and cut the led and wire it up to the factory "security" light? i personally don't like the led's.

other info that might help: '95 p10 doesn't have the keyless entry just base model, the new system ungo sr1000 http://www.clarion.com/us/en/products/2006/ungo_security/remote_engine_start/SR1000/us-en-product-pf_1132912143063.html
 

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seanwn86 said:
so everyone says to leave the factory alarm intact when doing a remote start/alarm install. so that's what i'm trying to do. the system i've got has a wire that it says is supposed to be connected to the factory alarm to disarm it. does anybody know where i would connect this or if there is anywhere to connect it?
I would like to know this too. My hypothesis is that splicing into the door lock and unlock wires will do it, but I would like a definitive answer before I cut any wires.

BTW, if you don't know which wires to splice into where, I have a chart that tells you where wires for things like the parking lights and ignition and lock/unlock wires and all that junk are. If you want it I can post it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the problem though is that if the factory alarm isn't deactivated, from what i understand, when you use the afermarket system to unlock or start the car it will trip the factory alarm.

and if you could post that chart or a link that'd be super duper! i was just gonna do alot of testing to find the right wires.
 

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We can't attach stuff to posts? Lame...

 

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Maybe Factory Alarm Arm and Factory Alarm Disarm do door locking and unlocking too?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks... hmm... i'm wonderin if that one third up from the bottom "factory alarm disarm" is the one i'd need to tap into??? can anybody actually confirm this?

if you don't mind me asking where'd you get that diagram?
 

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blairellis said:
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehicles.asp

I dont know what year your cars are so I'll have to let you do some research. This also includes alarms as well.


I created a generic user name for that forum that anyone on here can use as well.
Username: g20.net
Password: geedub
I posted that in another thread. Useful to get any wiring diagram. Hopefully it will have what you are looking for.
 

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There is supposed to be a factory alarm disarm wire, it is purple and some other color. I have yet to find it. But there are certain situations that I know of that will cause the factory alarm to go off. Leaving a door open and arming the alarm is a sure fire way of setting off the factory alarm. Using your key in the door will set off the aftermarket alarm. Adding remote start to the factory alarm would be difficult (assuming you wanted to use only one fob). Other wise you will have 2 fobs to carry around (which can get annoying).
 

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FOr remote start where the hell do you find the following wires...
H2/1 - Channel 2
H2/2 - Lock #87A Normally closed
H2/3 - Lock #30 Common output
H2/4 - Lock #87A Normally Open (Input) 15A
H2/5 - Unlock #87 Normally closed
H2/6 - Lock #30 Common output
H2/7 - Unlock #87A Normally open (Input) lopped back to H2/4
 

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Discussion Starter #10
^^^^ ha ha ha :teeth: sorry dude i got no f-ing clue at all :zoinks: the instructions that came with my setup doesn't have anything resembling that :stare:
 

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its the blue1 :)

imo if its a complex wiring job, and u dnt kno the system 100%, dnt touch it....get a pro to do it with ganrateed/warrented work.
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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SR20 Inside said:
FOr remote start where the hell do you find the following wires...
H2/1 - Channel 2
H2/2 - Lock #87A Normally closed
H2/3 - Lock #30 Common output
H2/4 - Lock #87A Normally Open (Input) 15A
H2/5 - Unlock #87 Normally closed
H2/6 - Lock #30 Common output
H2/7 - Unlock #87A Normally open (Input) lopped back to H2/4
Those are referencing relay pins...30, 87, 87A are all pin numbers on std relays.
 

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Hrmm, well they reference all this for the keyless entry part of the system. Don't know wtf I am going to do. I am not taking to some kid at best buy that is for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
^^^ yea that was my dilema. if you're gonna have somebody do it, definately take it to a more reputable, upper class installer. not some universal high school installers like best buy or circuit city. sorry dude really wish i could help ya out, but that's why i'm droppin mine. are you just doin the keyless?
 

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Yea keyless and remote. I am planning on possibly doing a writeup once I get it working. I am about half way there, need to find the theft warning control unit though.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
cool cool... i think i've given up for now but maybe in the summer i might try and retackle it. but probably not lol. so good luck man. btw do we ever have any g meets or sr20 meets or anything?
 

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Yea you missed out on the dyno day up in ogden, was the shit. The dyno day are really the only meets we have had so far. We are planning on having another in spring time.
 

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There are two theft warning relays, one is the brown one in the box near the ABS pump (flashes lights and horn I think), the other is a black one in the box between the engine and battery (interrupts the starter I think). Does it sound like these are the relays you need ??

The theft warning control unit is up behind the dashboard, up above the accelerator.

Tach wire, it sounds like it's saying to tap into the wires at the ECU.
 
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