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P10 hater
2,327 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After receiving my stainless steel brake lines in the GB that Blair put together I decided I would do a write-up on how to put them on. None of this write-up came from the FSM and this was my first time doing anything really brake related so if there is some better way to do it, please comment. This is merely the way I did it.

So you should have taken off the wheels. It doesn't matter which one you start off with. I put the lug nuts back on the studs so I wouldn't lose them. Place an oil pan underneath the wheel. This is your work station. The front and rear have nearly identical processes. The connections will just be in different places. This write-up is shown on the rear wheel.

Start with the top portion of the brake line.

Take a 10mm line wrench and loosen if enough to brake the lock. You'll see some brake fluid start to seep out onto the threads. Slightly tighten it up again.

Next, proceed to the brake caliper and find where the line feeds into. Go ahead and use an 11mm (I think) socket to once again loosen the bolt to the point where a little brake fluid comes out. Then tighten it back up just a little bit.

This next part was the part that I thought was the hardest. You want to use anything you can to remove the brackets that keep the lines in place. I used these. Just try to shimmy the brackets back and forth until they come off.

This is what the bracket looks like removed.

Notice how it is curved. That is good. That curve is what holds the line in place.

Midway through the line there is another part where it is bracketed down to the chassis. Remove that bracket just as you did the first one.

Go ahead and remove the brake line from the chassis.

Now with your bucket in place, get ready for some brake fluid. Brake fluid is some pretty nasty stuff. By the time I was done with this job, the brake fluid had eaten through the red paint on my tools that indicate that it is a metric tool. Use that 10mm line wrench to separate the stock rubber line from the chassis harness. Brake fluid will constantly come out. Now you can either hurry and connect the new line to the chassis harness or you can remove the banjo bolt side of the stock brake line. They both have to be done in order to get the fluid to stop leaking. But I connected the new brake line before I disconnected the stock banjo bolt.

Your new brake lines should have come with two copper washers per line. You should sandwich your bolt with the copper washers and get ready to screw it into the brake caliper.

You'll see some "teeth" on the caliper that should help you orient your brake lines in the proper direction.

Tighten it all done and wipe things off so you are not leaking, and so you'll be able to notice if you are leaking.

Put those brackets back on. You really don't want your master cylinder to run dry. I would recommend putting more brake fluid into the reservoir after each wheel. Leave the top off so you can bleed.

Get ready to bleed the brakes. I did the gravity-bleed method because it is a one-man job. This is probably the most important step of all. You want to start by double checking the cap is off of where you put your brake fluid. You cannot just top off the reservoir and go on your merry way. They must be bleed. Start with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder. Since the MC is in the front on the driver's side, start with the rear passenger wheel. Find your bleed valve. It has the rubber nub on it.

Remove the rubber nipple.

Now loosen, but do not remove the valve. It will take a minute or two for brake fluid to start dripping out. I would flick and shake the brake lines to loosen any air bubbles that might still be in there. Just let the brake lines bleed for a minute. Then tighten in up and replace the rubber nubbens. Then move on to the next furthest wheel and repeat until all the wheels are done. Make sure your brake fluid is at an acceptable level, replace the cap and put your wheels back on. Do a brake check before you go speeding on down the road.

That should be it for replacing/upgrading your brake lines. As previously mentioned, there might be some better way to do it, but I thought this might help because it is the way I did it, and it worked for me. Feel free to chime in with comments. Enjoy.

1,229 Posts
For the fronts you want to make sure you push the line of the U that's on the caliper, otherwise it will rub against the axle.


Techna-fit SS lines

Easy fix

156 Posts
^With rubber lines they get old and inflate like a balloon when you apply pressure to the calipers. This makes the pedal feel spongy and reduces braking power.
Stainless lines don't bulge.
Gracias senor I didn't know that

Any has a link for ss lines for 99 p11??
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