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The Emo Kid.
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Prices are not shipped, from RockAuto
Call your local parts dealers and give them one of these part numbers and even if they said they couldnt find it before, they probably can, and it will probably be cheaper. The prograde SPICER (bolded) is the one im getting from NAPA for $23 same day, AOT RockAuto $32 shipped.

SPICER Part # 5051165B More Info {Red Label-Service Grade}
Front Suspension; Lower
$8.14


MOOG Part # K9633 More Info
Front Suspension; Lower
$10.71

SPICER Part # 5051165 More Info {Professional Grade}
Front Suspension; Lower
$14.01


ACDELCO Part # 45D2165 More Info {#88911658}
JOINT,FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM BALL -
$30.99
________________

and a list of vehicles containing the same ball joint:

INFINITI G20 (1991 - 1996)
INFINITI G20 T (1994 - 1996)
NISSAN ALTIMA 1993
NISSAN ALTIMA GLE (1993 - 1997)
NISSAN ALTIMA GXE (1993 - 1997)
NISSAN ALTIMA SE (1993 - 1997)
NISSAN ALTIMA XE (1993 - 1997)
NISSAN PULSAR NX 1990
NISSAN PULSAR NX SE (1987 - 1989)
NISSAN PULSAR NX XE (1987 - 1990)
NISSAN SENTRA (1986 - 1990)
NISSAN SENTRA 4X4 1990
 

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Well, there's a lot of conflicting information on g20.net. Some people say use P10 parts, others don't. There aren't any P11 part numbers and I think it's silly to replace the entire LCA just for a ball joint. Anyone have any advice or part numbers? I have read most threads that include "ball joint", "LCA", and "Moog" and haven't been able to get a definitive answer.
 

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Yeah, P11 lower control arms are different.
You are slightly mistaken.

BALL JOINT is the same on p11 despite the control arm itself being different..

We used the above parts on a p11 with ZERO issues!!!!!!

So YES these part number ball joints WILL INDEED WORK ON P11 lower control arms!!!!!!!
 

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Do you know how the LCA is different P-10-->P-11?

Beware the AZ ball joints- the basic Valuecraft ones work OK, but the Duralast (better) ones have problems- The boot is too fat for the circlip, and you can't get the circlip on without destroying the boot (unless they've fixed this recently).
 

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Be careful if you have aftermarket control arms. I bought the ones on ebay, installed 1 of them and a year later, the ball joint was toast. I tried replacing a stock ball joint into the aftermarket control arm, and come to find out, the stock ball joint was too small. It wouldn't even press into the hole. I tried a Moog and Duralast, same shit. So i had to replace the whole control arm, AGAIN!
 

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why did you have to cut it? was it hitting the axle?

I bought a set on Ebay two weeks ago for $23 shipped for the pair but it turns out I didn't notice my ripped control arm bushing so now I have to take it back apart but the price of those same ball joints from Ebay doubled in price! WTF..

Just wanted to get a spare set of ball joints incase the ones in there currently get damaged while I remove the control arm.
 

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found this on sr20forum

i have here pics of the famous p11 lower control arm with a new moog ball joint pressed in. the fit perfect. both the p11 and p10 ball joints are the same i measured the diameter of both top and bottom shaft and work great. i used a micrometer to make sure they are the same tolerences and they are. i have a picv to prove the installation.

 

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Ok the Autozone by me stocks the Value Craft ones for $10 a piece for the p10 and Altima. I guess they will have to work for now until I order a Moog set from Rockauto.

Time to bust out the digital caliper and measure to make sure they're the same size.
 

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Ok the Autozone by me stocks the Value Craft ones for $10 a piece for the p10 and Altima. I guess they will have to work for now until I order a Moog set from Rockauto.

Time to bust out the digital caliper and measure to make sure they're the same size.
The Value Craft work just fine. I had probs with the Duralast- the grease boot was too big for the circlip.
 

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How do you guys go about replacing that ball joint? I've got a P10, but I'm guessing if it's the same joint, it's the same on P10s and P11s.
 

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it hits the axle
Ok I see what you were talking about. On the driver side, the ball joint was about 2-3mm away from hitting a rubber boot on my axle but the passenger side cleared it without any issues. Once the car was on the ground I checked the clearance again and it's definitely not touching the axle but it's still 2-3mm away. Talk about cutting it close LOL.

Anyway, I took comparison pictures of the b15 ball joints and the p10 ones I bought with measurements. They are within a mm or two of each other in certain places but overall it's been working fine in my car.


Edit: Uploaded the pics.

B15


P10


B15


P10


B15


P10


B15


P10


B15


P10


overall length

B15


P10



So basically the only difference is that the P10 has a longer threaded section as mentioned and could possibly hit the axle. The solution would be to cut off a thread or two using an angle grinder.
 
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