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All, for some stupid reason, I've let my 1995 G20t sit for the last 2 1/2 years in my garage. The starter went out on my, my job sent me out on traveling assignments for 6 days/week, and I lost track of time.

The interior is great, but I want to get my baby back on the road. It has only 90k miles, so it ought to be good for another 100. What steps should I take and in what order?

So far my list is:

- buy a new battery
- install a new starter
- drain the gas tank
- drain all fluids and replace all hoses and belts
- replace engine mounts and any other rubber items
- replace the head gasket and inspect the cylinders for rust
- replace all weather stripping
- replace all tires

Am I forgetting anything? What engine mods should I think about doing to get a little (affordable) zip out of the engine? Are there any guides out there for this type of partial restoration?

Thanks in advance,

Glenn Holman
Dallas, TX
 

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I would not just replace all that stuff. Your head gasket and most of your motor mounts are probably just fine. Just get under the car with a flashlight and inspect everything. Get some new belts, fix your starter, have autozone check the battery, change your plugs, inspect the wires and rotor, give it an oil change and go. Maybe check the color of the brake fluid. I bet the rubber seals are just fine if it has been sitting in a garage. Just inspect it real good before you start throwing cash around.

EDIT...Draining the gas is a good idea too.
 

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glennholman said:
All, for some stupid reason, I've let my 1995 G20t sit for the last 2 1/2 years in my garage. The starter went out on my, my job sent me out on traveling assignments for 6 days/week, and I lost track of time.

The interior is great, but I want to get my baby back on the road. It has only 90k miles, so it ought to be good for another 100. What steps should I take and in what order?

So far my list is:

- buy a new battery
- install a new starter
- drain the gas tank
- drain all fluids and replace all hoses and belts
- replace engine mounts and any other rubber items
- replace the head gasket and inspect the cylinders for rust
- replace all weather stripping
- replace all tires

Am I forgetting anything? What engine mods should I think about doing to get a little (affordable) zip out of the engine? Are there any guides out there for this type of partial restoration?

Thanks in advance,

Glenn Holman
Dallas, TX

hey glenn

first pull the plugs and see if the motor can be turned (if you are concerned about cylinder rust, spray with boat/jet ski head fogger). if it turns, i wouldn't worry about the head gasket or rust.

drain the oil and fill with reg oil and top off with "marvelous mystery oil" (or some kind of high detergent oil additive). (switch to synthetic after 1000 mi)

if you never have, replace plugs and wires with new ones from nissan/infiniti, might as well get a distributor cap and rotor too.

install new battery
install new starter

check antifreeze (should be fine)

power steering fluid and trans oil should be ok

flush brake fluid

drain gas tank

inspect belts, hoses, mounts, bushings, tires and weatherstripping - replace as nessesary

make sure the clutch is working (you may want to flush this as well)

as far as mods go....
-intake $50 and up
-header $200 and up
-2 1/2" exhaust $300? and up (check with local muffler shop)
-bump timing
should give you 10 - 20 more hp
 

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octotat said:
make sure the clutch is working (you may want to flush this as well)
P10 is a cable clutch. ;)
 

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Glennholman: So far my list is:

- buy a new battery
Good idea.
- install a new starter
Nope, only if you need one, they don't go bad over time.
- drain the gas tank
Yep.
- drain all fluids and replace all hoses and belts
Yes on the fluids. Yes on the hoses and belts if they are older than six years old.
- replace engine mounts and any other rubber items
Nope. Your car is a 1995 model not 1955. Unless the mounts are actually bad then you would be wasting your money and time.
- replace the head gasket and inspect the cylinders for rust
No on the head gasket. They do not go bad over time. Before you start the car, pull the plugs and put a tablespoon of oil in each cylinder. Leave the plugs out and turn the car over with the starter motor for a few seconds. Put the plugs back in and start the car. I will smoke a bit but will clear quickly.
- replace all weather stripping
Nope, same comment as the engine mounts applies here.
- replace all tires
Nope, unless the sidewalls show evidence of dry rot (cracking) or are obviously worn.
 

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YES - watch out for sidewall dry rot. I have been broke enough to drive on tires that were dry rotted.

The results weren't pretty. 4 blowouts weeks apart from each other. Affording each used tire was a struggle.

Having to drive on dry rotted tires to make it to work.

Life was ROUGH back then.

Be careful with the tires and inspect the sidewalls and the tires for being out of round due to the belts being crushed from sitting there (I don't know if that's the right term but I know what I am talking about from horrible experiences)
 

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no need to change wires rotors and.... wires don't go bad by sitting around!
Agree with all fluids and gas, tires.
Don't flush the tranny! just drain and fill.
No need to chage mounts or any other gasket unless after you start you see that it needs to be done.
Don't forget to check for all suspension safety issues. If you are not sure how, after you got the car started take it to any place and they can do a visual check for you. (not a bad idea just to be 100% sure you didn't miss anything important. After all you don't wanna kill anyone on the road and it may not even cost you anything if you buy tires from a Firestone or wal-mart...)
 

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I've dealt with a number of G's that have been setting outside for long periods in the NE. I am wicked envious of you folks in the dry SW where there's no corrosion and the only thing to worry about is sun damage. You say this car has been in the garage, so that means no sun damage- unless it's been sitting near a window.

I think the dry rot on tires is caused by ozone and sun damage- if it's been in the shade- they should be OK.

We've had ongoing discussions about gas going bad that has been sitting. Has not been a problem for me. Depends how much is in the tank. Keep in mind, the tanks are sealed now, so moisture doesn't get in. If you have less than half a tank, I would just fill it up with fresh gas, and it should be OK.

You'll need to address the starter issue of course. The battery is either good or bad. If it will hold a charge, I'd use it.

I agree with pulling the plugs, squirting in some oil, turning it over to be sure the cylinder walls are lubed. You want to spin the engine for a bit to get the oil well-circulated before you start it. Not a bad idea to pull the valve cover gasket and make sure there's no rust on the cams, although you can sorta see a little looking in the filler cap hole.

I'd check for damage from mice or other critters- they like to build nests in the intake box.

Where I am, if G's are left outside, the brake rotors, esp in the rear and esp if the emergency brake is jacked up tite, rust like crazy and the calipers freeze. Make sure your brakes are working OK.

I'm betting it will start right up. Once you get it started and running OK, then I would go back and do all the routine maintenance stuff, like oil/filter, plugs, etc. I don't see the point in changing the trans or brake fluid if they're working OK.

Reinflate the tires to spec. Check them for dry rot. Radial tires apparently don't get flat spots from sitting.

Should be good to go then- do all the other stuff when you feel like it.
 

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lysander said:
I've dealt with a number of G's that have been setting outside for long periods in the NE. I am wicked envious of you folks in the dry SW where there's no corrosion and the only thing to worry about is sun damage. You say this car has been in the garage, so that means no sun damage- unless it's been sitting near a window.

I think the dry rot on tires is caused by ozone and sun damage- if it's been in the shade- they should be OK.

We've had ongoing discussions about gas going bad that has been sitting. Has not been a problem for me. Depends how much is in the tank. Keep in mind, the tanks are sealed now, so moisture doesn't get in. If you have less than half a tank, I would just fill it up with fresh gas, and it should be OK.

You'll need to address the starter issue of course. The battery is either good or bad. If it will hold a charge, I'd use it.

I agree with pulling the plugs, squirting in some oil, turning it over to be sure the cylinder walls are lubed. You want to spin the engine for a bit to get the oil well-circulated before you start it. Not a bad idea to pull the valve cover gasket and make sure there's no rust on the cams, although you can sorta see a little looking in the filler cap hole.

I'd check for damage from mice or other critters- they like to build nests in the intake box.

Where I am, if G's are left outside, the brake rotors, esp in the rear and esp if the emergency brake is jacked up tite, rust like crazy and the calipers freeze. Make sure your brakes are working OK.

I'm betting it will start right up. Once you get it started and running OK, then I would go back and do all the routine maintenance stuff, like oil/filter, plugs, etc. I don't see the point in changing the trans or brake fluid if they're working OK.

Reinflate the tires to spec. Check them for dry rot. Radial tires apparently don't get flat spots from sitting.

Should be good to go then- do all the other stuff when you feel like it.
Yep on the dry rots, I bought that car from someone in Key West. The tires were dry rotted and they knew it.

Bastards
 
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