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6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
SYMPTOMS: Here is a more detailed description of the problem above:

On start-up:
Car turns over and revs land about 1000-1200 - upon pressing throttle to car tries to rev up but bogs down to a near stall (150 rpm) and then fluctuates. After about 30-60 secs the car holds an idle around 900-1000rpm and is driveable.

While Driving:
Travelling at constant speeds (3000rpm) the car will randomly loose power and the throttle response bogs down. rpm doesn't change but lack of power causes loss of speed. This occurs at random times (5-10 times on a 50km drive) and causes the car to jerk - lasts for about 5 seconds then disappears.

DIAGNOSIS: I have been trying to figure this out (shout out to SlimLou for your help) for a few weeks now. Here are was has been done.

-New spark plugs (I change every spring)
-New fuel filter (just changed)
-Cleaned air-filter (standard K&N) - stock
-Changed front 02 sensor
-swapped MAF (thanks Slimlou)
-just tested voltage across Throttle Postion sensor - all levels seem normal as per post on SR20 site

Current codes:

**"Under normal conditions the heated oxygen sensor 2 (rear) is not
used for engine control operation." (service manual)


I am thinking this could be an IAC or EGR but neither code is coming through - Any suggestions are appreciated.


drunken master
10,098 Posts
have you done the ful press check and air leak check?

you should have asked the dealler to recored the live data at the time of the problms and send you the full scailed print out. this is like a data log on tuneing software but values will all be printed out as they were recorded for the full drive cycle. tps takes 2 sec to scale on consult. also checking actual ignition timeing and ecu comand timeing takes a few sec's

what did the dealer tell you they did confirm? did you ask if you had a rich or lean condition?
did you check fuses for the rear o2 sensor?
did te dealer check the catylist on front and rear o2 sencor useing line graph. A cloged cat can cuase a miss and possible rear o2 codes.

if a dealer tells you something like this the biggest question is what was checked and confirmed. if they cant justify time and running condition wich is easy to get a basic strt than justifying more time is not relevent.

i know as a former nissan tech nd as a tunener the capability of the equiptment the are useing. if you asked my q's they would be able to give you the answer unless their fucking off and takeing your money. however their are loads of techs that get handed tickets for jobs that dont know shit. im sure any other tech on this forum can tell you that.

also did the dealler give you the print out of the codes and the freeze frame data? if the freeze fram data was for the p0300 put it up hear for me to see it.

muti cyl mis is due to either rich or lean conditions are engines ability to seal the combustion chamber. it would take a seriously crazy stretched timeing chan to be engine timeing and have this problem with out others . andl cloged exhuast can be a symtom to what is happening and spoted as a posibility from the freeze fram data.

ask the dealer if they dont have any of my info for me i would ask what was checked and ho and demand money back telling them all they did was drive the car and pull codes for one hour

2,862 Posts
Sounds like textbook MAF problems, but you say you swapped MAFs and the problems persist?
After replacing the front O2 sensor, you still show a front O2 sensor codes? Are those the codes that were displayed BEFORE you replaced all those things? If so, clear the codes, drive it again and see what codes come back

844 Posts
I'm having a similar prob but i just think it's my close to shot battery or alternator... Upon starting sometimes it'll struggle to get to around 800 RPm like the rpm will shoot down to about 300 rpm before getting to idle... and sometimes it 'll just shoot down and not run... this will only occur on start up...

sorry to jump on your thread bro
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